PS3 Reball ps3 Cell/RSX

Shawn Shakir said:
Hi Hi, with my thermocouples, I use the one that came with the achi + one of my own for the top to make sure they are always reporting the same temperature. I also changed the thermocouple that came with my IR PRO to a better one. For the bottom probe, I changed that also and I have it reaching and touching the bottom of the PS3. I had the regular ACHI top heater for many years but about 3 years ago, I got an ELSTEIN circular IR plate that I put, which works alittle better. How close is your motherboard to the bottom heater plates? In case, I let bottom do 75% of the work and top does the remaining to get to 225 or whatever is desired. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Hi @Shawn Shakir, thanks for your reply!

Oh ok, I didn't get that your bottom plate sensor was touching the board. So I guess it doesn't really reach 280°C or the bottom components won't like it?

My board is 5cm (~2inches) above the heaters, but there is a glass between them which might be why it takes forever to get only 85°C at the top TC. Will remove that glass and put an external TC on the bottom of the board.
 
katmai said:
Hi @Shawn Shakir, thanks for your reply!

Oh ok, I didn't get that your bottom plate sensor was touching the board. So I guess it doesn't really reach 280°C or the bottom components won't like it?

My board is 5cm (~2inches) above the heaters, but there is a glass between them which might be why it takes forever to get only 85°C at the top TC. Will remove that glass and put an external TC on the bottom of the board.
Click to expand...

Exactly, even though its sets to 280, it never reaches anywhere close. The max i've seen by bottom is like 220-230. I don't have glass on mine, but I have an older variant. You can also use an external TC and just tape it to the bottom also and read it externally and adjust your profiles accordingly.
 
Shawn Shakir said:
Exactly, even though its sets to 280, it never reaches anywhere close. The max i've seen by bottom is like 220-230. I don't have glass on mine, but I have an older variant. You can also use an external TC and just tape it to the bottom also and read it externally and adjust your profiles accordingly.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your help, I was able (I think) to make progress.

The issue was the glass, I dropped it: it's less shiny but the result is really
better. My guess is that the IR doesn't go through that glass so one have to
wait until the glass get hot.

Did some experiments at different bottom temperatures, I can now reach 120°C
with 330°C at the bottom and 160°C with the bottom at 380°C, the only issue is
that the bottom controller is far too slow on the last degres to ramp up, it can
take minutes to get the last 20-15ish degres, and I guess sadly that the PID is
not configurable. I finally faked it, by putting 20°C above and reducing the
temperature near the desired temperature at the top. With that and the
120 -> 180 -> 225 steps I finally was able to lift the CELL in less than
12 min or so.. The internal TC was at 210°C while the external 225°C, so I'll
probably try to find a replacement. Finally I messed up the capacitors behind
the CPU with that suction pen :).
 
katmai said:
Thanks for your help, I was able (I think) to make progress.

The issue was the glass, I dropped it: it's less shiny but the result is really
better. My guess is that the IR doesn't go through that glass so one have to
wait until the glass get hot.

Did some experiments at different bottom temperatures, I can now reach 120°C
with 330°C at the bottom and 160°C with the bottom at 380°C, the only issue is
that the bottom controller is far too slow on the last degres to ramp up, it can
take minutes to get the last 20-15ish degres, and I guess sadly that the PID is
not configurable. I finally faked it, by putting 20°C above and reducing the
temperature near the desired temperature at the top. With that and the
120 -> 180 -> 225 steps I finally was able to lift the CELL in less than
12 min or so.. The internal TC was at 210°C while the external 225°C, so I'll
probably try to find a replacement. Finally I messed up the capacitors behind
the CPU with that suction pen :).
Click to expand...

yeah with the CPU, its a bit harder when lifting, all those capacitors kinda move around. I would lift and if possible put it down either gently or hold it for a few seconds for it to cool, so the caps won't move. Congrats on getthing the machine working though!
 
Hey,

Didn't tried anything serious yet, but I buyed a PID controller to control an
oven and found out in the documentation how to configure the coefficient and
figured I could share it here.

It turns out that it is something similar on the IR6500 for the bottom heater
but that it isn't documented (I was wrong thinking it wasn't configurable in my
previous post).

Basically a long press (3secs) on the SET button and normal press SET until
finding the ATU or ARU item and setting it to 1 will enable the "auto-tune"
mode, a yellow AT light comes up. I set the temp to 120°C and it just plays
around that temperature and calculates the coefficient (this is quite long and
we must make sure that the primary controler is allowing that PID to output to
the bottom heater during the calibration). Finally the yellow light comes off
and it seems like the PID is faster. I guess one might be better doing that
auto-tune with the temperature used during the rework.

Cheers
 
Basically yes they are compatible, before desolder rsx from one and solder it on another to another use uart syscon and read data communication codes for each, see if they are same, jsd 001 may have first version of rsx, not sure, even then they can be swapped on syscon after reball. Usually kte001 does not have dead rsx, while jsd001 found to many dead rsx over years.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Basically yes they are compatible, before desolder rsx from one and solder it on another to another use uart syscon and read data communication codes for each, see if they are same, jsd 001 may have first version of rsx, not sure, even then they can be swapped on syscon after reball. Usually kte001 does not have dead rsx, while jsd001 found to many dead rsx over years.
Click to expand...
How can I read the data communication codes?
Are there commands?
 
RIP-Felix said:
How'd did it go?

Also where did you get your LY IR8500 from? Ali express? I'm curious, cuz they are much cheaper there, but from what I hear it's a real gamble.
Click to expand...
From aliexpress.
Screenshot_٢٠٢٢١١٢٨-١٧١٠٢٦_Gallery.jpg
I am using this profile and Shawn Shakir's profile
 
Shawn Shakir said:
So I have an ACHI-IR PRO-SC and this is the profile i've been using for the past 6 months with advice from Vyktor with a few tweaks and have had zero issues with my reballs on PS3's ever since. I have my bottom heater set at 280 and keep it at that until top temp reaches 160, then i lower to 270 at 180, 260 at 190, 250 at 200, 240 at 210 and I usually just leave it there. For top heater these are my settings as of now, you can adjust the times up or down to make sure you are hitting the target temps. I also have my top heater aobut 1.5 - 2 inches away from the motherboard. For example, for L1, I have to have it run a bit longer in the winter to reach 160 since its colder in my basement. I am also using two TC for the top, one which is attached to the ACHI and one that is external. My bottom TC is also touching the bottom of my PS3 or 360. I can take pictures if needed

R1: step
L1 0 d1 360 r2 1.00
L2 190 d2 30 r3 1.00
L3 200 d3 25 r4 1.00
L4 210 d4 25 r5 1.00
L5 220 d5 25 r6 1.00
L6 230 d6 25 r7 end
hb 230.

Even though my L6 is set at 230 for 25 sec, I use the "nudge" test with tweezers, so once my balls are in the liquid state which is around 225, I can lift.
For reballing back lead, I usually stop before L4 reaches 210 and when my thermocouple reaches 205, and then I just let it cool on its own from there and have had zero issues.
For this, my bottom heater would be 10 degrees lower for all, so 270 until 160, 260 at 170, 250 at 180, 240 at 190 and then i leave it there.

I know i'm probably in the minority but I also reball my RSX using my top heater and haven't had any issues thus far, most others use a hot air wand and do it that way, but that'll be up to you. I have another profile for that which is basically
L1 210 d1 999 r2 1.00
For this i have my top heater probably an inch or so away, if i go 1.5 - 2 inches, some of my balls tend to drift or merge. Haven't had issues with any of my 40NM reballs thus far, so hopefully this can help you figure out how to dial in your own machine!
Click to expand...
Can I use it for ps4, ps3 super slim?
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Basically yes they are compatible, before desolder rsx from one and solder it on another to another use uart syscon and read data communication codes for each, see if they are same, jsd 001 may have first version of rsx, not sure, even then they can be swapped on syscon after reball. Usually kte001 does not have dead rsx, while jsd001 found to many dead rsx over years.
Click to expand...
Hi I can't seem to message you on here for some reason. I wanted to talk to you about repairing my 60gb fat ps3. Could you possibly message me on here or email me ? my email is [email protected]

Chris
 
It should work for both same data or the Id may be different. You can access both syscon and read address 212 those 6 bits. r 212 06 and compare both data, if same bittraining .
You may have to add training Id at 224.
This is patch at 224 and won't exist from factory.
If you swap something don't forget to fix checksum.
Run eepcsum and you will 2 bits from address 7fe.
Run r 7FE and write reversed what you see when early get on eepcsum.
Example
eepcsum 157f
r 7FE 02
: 12 34
Now we add our data
w 7fe 7f 15
Test again
r 7fe 02
: 15 7f
eepcsum
157f
All good, if I forget something report.
Also during those swaps mobo may act as ylod without presing any buttons. Is normal when syscon isn't patched.
Take and understand data from page release by M4j0r.
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:Rambus_Registers
 
Hi guys!
Today I bought a new honton r690 v3.but it came with no curves or profiles but it should come with them and I don't know why.
Can you please share the profiles for all ps3/xbox 360/ps4?
2 ceramices were borken.
Can I use the machine with 2 ceramic broken?
 

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Hey Viktor I have a ps3 CECH A12 it works perfectly but I want to replace the rsx and I heard that you are in Romania so can I ship it to you or come to your shop or how do I go about it can anyone help
 
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