PS3 Reball ps3 Cell/RSX

Whitey said:
Thank you

Thank you very much I appreciate you telling me what they are. I couldn't read the schematic like you guys and Victor wasn't going to tell me lol

These ones?
Just not sure about the X6S part
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Page 23 and 26, you owe me 20 euro.
d0b098a9c4e19421e2b44ae0b7c82a35.jpg
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Page 23 and 26, you owe me 20 euro.
d0b098a9c4e19421e2b44ae0b7c82a35.jpg
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Thank you.
I can see now they are the same values.
Shawn Shakir replied to me and said
From Victors picture, they are 1210 sized 22u 16V mlcc's
AU mouser.com has thousands of parts and different tolerances etc and numbers I'm also not sure of.
Are these the right ones?
Most of it looks the same as Shawn Shakir quoted
Screenshot_20240801_004816_Gallery.jpg
 
They are right. Just not really sure why do you exchange them. Take measurements with scope to understand if they need exchange. If ain't broke don't fix it.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
They are right. Just not really sure why do you exchange them. Take measurements with scope to understand if they need exchange. If ain't broke don't fix it.
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Thanks for that.
I'm the only repairer in Tasmania that does retro consoles. I offer ylod services. Let's say the caps go bad bottom side, I replace them all and give a 3 month warranty then the top ones die. I have to pull the console apart, diagnose then fix again. Or if other parts fail same scenario. I'm trying to offer a full refurbishment replacing all the parts that commonly fail. That way I can offer a warranty and customers aren't coming back constantly to get other problems fixed. No full refurb no warranty simple. If they want to pay every time it breaks down that's their choice, or they can just get it done all at once. I'm not about the money just customer satisfaction
 
Whitey said:
Thank you

Thank you very much I appreciate you telling me what they are. I couldn't read the schematic like you guys and Victor wasn't going to tell me lol

These ones?
Just not sure about the X6S part
Click to expand...
If you have a spare board, just salvage from it. All the capacitors in the surrounding area are the same 22uF
 
ba114 said:
If you have a spare board, just salvage from it. All the capacitors in the surrounding area are the same 22uF
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I have plenty of spare boards. Consoles are 18 years old now. It only cost me $92 for new parts gives me enough to do 25 Consoles. Not that I'll need that many always handy to have brand new spares though
 
Hello Professionals.
Still on my reball 40nm journey just wondering if anyone has advice for some final tweaking please. I used a profile that someone on here suggested (sorry can't remember your name :-( )
With a couple of adjustments. Seems like the only profile that has worked for my modified IR8500
I've included a picture of my profile.
Bottom heater is set at 200 degrees.
With the used profile I was able to lift the RSX but at 210 degrees.
Bottom and top of the board was fine but the RSX popped. I had it covered with aluminium foil 1 piece around each side so basically its covered about 4 times (haven't had any issues there before)
The only thing I did differently was put the top IR at 2cm as the guy suggested that gave me the profile.
Should I just move the top heater back upto around 3cm where I had it before?
I also switched to Amtech flux (stirri) which seemed to do a much better job than kingbo and the local stores Rosin
 

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Hi guys, i know this is not probably the best place for something like this, but i have a problem with my reballing station honton r490. Machine was working great, i have already reballed 3 consoles, but last night while i was testing some other profile, upon finishing and cooldown, something exploded inside and machine shut down. 2 fuses in my fusebox in house have switched off as well. After lifting the fuses and trying on the machine, it powered up as usually but now i can't use any keys on the right side of the display to start profiles or to edit them. I then dissasambled front part where display is to reach mainboard. On the mainboard there are 4 screws that hold the board in place and at every screw there is tiny capacitor. 2 front capacitors blew up and the right one damaged the board a little bit exposing copper. My question is, if someone has this kind of machine or if someone had problem like this, what do i diagnose or should i buy replacement board. I will post pics of the board and damage.
 

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Remove all plates/heat resistance from power then try controller to start. If won't work mean main mcu is danzo. Well a imput of if is short internal or got damaged. I got something similar happened with some cheap hot air gun stations until I was pissed and built my own.
I'm not sure if you can recover that mcu and dump it to write another, unless factory will give you that dump to write one. For me seems dead mcu, hopefully I'm wrong.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Remove all plates/heat resistance from power then try controller to start. If won't work mean main mcu is danzo. Well a imput of if is short internal or got damaged. I got something similar happened with some cheap hot air gun stations until I was pissed and built my own.
I'm not sure if you can recover that mcu and dump it to write another, unless factory will give you that dump to write one. For me seems dead mcu, hopefully I'm wrong.
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Thank you for your reply. When i turn on the machine, boot process is normal, both upper and bottom heaters prepare for couple of seconds, and then screen appears with profile and temps. Its just when i try to press any button, it doesn't do anything. Does it have anything to do with those two dead capacitors near the screws? Because i didn't see any other damage other than those two. Even two capacitors in the back were ok. As you can see on the pictures there is damage at right screw, where the capacitor blew up. I have sent an e-mail to honton, but they haven't responded yet. I'm ready to even buy a new board, but i couldn't even find spare parts to buy.
 
No nothing to do with those, they are for earth discharge, now instead of earth that messed mcu I believe.
Before I assume you should know how to check all parts on pcb controller.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
No nothing to do with those, they are for earth discharge, now instead of earth that messed mcu I believe.
Before I assume you should know how to check all parts on pcb controller.
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I understand. I will try to check parts, and will ask some friends to help me, but since i bought this from china and there is no warranty and support, i believe i'm going to need a new board. Thank you again for your help. I'm just dissapointed since it all start great for me, i have finally bought myself reballing machine, and found good profile for ps3, and now all of a sudden i have no machine, nothing.
 
Nah not new board, if you are in Europe, send those parts to test it, I need only panel, buttons board and that mcu controller, if I manage to dump it that there is no fix charge, just shipping and return costs. I'm curious if they use open source for that ic. Example I was able to dump RE8500 and controller and flashed new one and work. I did that because of those issues. But in 10 years didn't happen.
Case is too strong to fail and well cooled if interior temperature reaches 400 Celsius.
If you don't find fix solution just send it in.
Add close look of that atmel mcu.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
Nah not new board, if you are in Europe, send those parts to test it, I need only panel, buttons board and that mcu controller, if I manage to dump it that there is no fix charge, just shipping and return costs. I'm curious if they use open source for that ic. Example I was able to dump RE8500 and controller and flashed new one and work. I did that because of those issues. But in 10 years didn't happen.
Case is too strong to fail and well cooled if interior temperature reaches 400 Celsius.
If you don't find fix solution just send it in.
Add close look of that atmel mcu.
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Thank you friend, im from Bosnia. I have already made contact with my buddy who is far better experienced in electronics and he said he will look into it. If everything fails i'll send it to you. Thank you again for all your help, i'm just eager to fix this, resume reballing and syscon reading.
 
vyktormvmpay25 said:
I'm from Romania . Ask him to dump first.This is an backup that would help if eventually you get same situation in future.
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I will, thank you again. I was reading little about those MCU's last night. It looks like this one is Atmega 64A, and you can even buy them on aliexpress for cheap, well since they are chinese. Some you can dump and write, and some have protection. And i'm surprised that chip isn't dead in my case, or anything else. Have you seen that exposed copper near the screw where capacitor blew up? Jesus
 
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