Recommend Thermal Paste for PS3 Slim Delided

[Cypher_CG89]

my slim CPU and rsx always reached 60c++,

60+ temps are fine, its when you start pushing 70 - 80 you should investigate the problem.

. you don't need thermal pastes, thermal paste most used on superslims because they work harder than slims and fat vers. also if ur cpu/rsx is 45nm

What the hell is this BS, you Don't need to use a thermal compound...? What are you smoking... Yes you do need to use thermal compound REGARDLESS of the PS3 model between the surfaces of the die's and IHS and IHS and Heatsink. This is to make sure the heatsink and IHS are making good contact for thermal transfer and fill any gaps. This goes for consoles and PC or you will fry the chips, even a thermal pad is better than nothing.

And you got the working harder part completely backwards, the older models run hotter and draw more power then newer SuperSlims.

 

[MatthewUwU]

What the hell is this BS, you Don't need to use a thermal compound...?

nah im not using that on my slim. only use it my superslim. my superslim always getting 70,80.

 

[wrx884]

nah im not using that on my slim. only use it my superslim. my superslim always getting 70,80.

if this is stock id like to see this slim run with no thermal paste lol? this must be a troll post hahaha

 

[Viggen66]

Gonna leave this issue on my slim getting above 60 to 63, yesterday tried again and is only on most demanding games, one thing I find it weird, is that prior to deliding I think I got better temp results makes no sense, the cell had the most upgrade values, rsx got a little bit worst, I guess the glue rsx comes stock must make more pressure over the die, and transfer more heat to the heat sinks, hence delivering better results but is just my opinion.

 

[Mozzbga]

Gonna leave this issue on my slim getting above 60 to 63, yesterday tried again and is only on most demanding games, one thing I find it weird, is that prior to deliding I think I got better temp results makes no sense, the cell had the most upgrade values, rsx got a little bit worst, I guess the glue rsx comes stock must make more pressure over the die, and transfer more heat to the heat sinks, hence delivering better results but is just my opinion.

Did you scrape the thermal glue of the 4 ram chips? And off the lid? So it sits lower profile? Did you align the lids with the dies and the heatsink properly because it is tricky. I do this nearly every day to various ps3 models mainly 60gb bc systems and if done correctly you should see lower temps for sure

 

[Viggen66]

Did you scrape the thermal glue of the 4 ram chips? And off the lid? So it sits lower profile? Did you align the lids with the dies and the heatsink properly because it is tricky. I do this nearly every day to various ps3 models mainly 60gb bc systems and if done correctly you should see lower temps for sure

Tanks for the reply I removed the glue as much I could, you know that residue is hard to remove and always stay there something, do you have some trick to remove it completely? Afterwards I washed the ihs in a washbasin, to remove rest of residues.

Aligning the ihs with the die is easy, hard it so insert the top plated lid with the cooler in top of the lossen ihs, don't know how u do it, but I face the mobo up with aligned ihs and insert the cooler lid in top, normal procedure would be to the opposite, first the cooler lid and then the mobo, but as you know ihs would just fall down [emoji4].

Another thing is when you remove the cooler lid the ihs are always glued to it, only way to remove them is to disassemble the fan.

 

[Viggen66]

Tried some ps2 emulation on my system, the cell is running very cool, on fan running at 25% never goes above 50 degrees, I guess webman increases to 40% as a recommended value, after the delid my system doesn't need it.

 

[sandungas]

Gonna leave this issue on my slim getting above 60 to 63, yesterday tried again and is only on most demanding games, one thing I find it weird, is that prior to deliding I think I got better temp results makes no sense, the cell had the most upgrade values, rsx got a little bit worst, I guess the glue rsx comes stock must make more pressure over the die, and transfer more heat to the heat sinks, hence delivering better results but is just my opinion.

At this point, if you want to find the answer you are going to need to do some tests

The basic test is to assemble and dissassemble the PS3 heatsink several times and see the pattern of "peaks" created in the pastes
This pattern of peaks should be randomly spreaded and should cover all the surface... incase you see a corner without peaks it means it was not touching the other surface properlly (with enought pressure, or not touching it at all)

Another thing you should check is the flatness of the surfaces using a razor blade, i was talking about it here
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/most-reliable-fat-ps3.28226/page-2#post-228151

The other critical factor is the curvature of the metal clamps that holds the heatsink from his back... but the curvature have not changed in your previous works, so we can forget about it
I mean... you can increase the curvature of the metal clamps to increase pressure, and probably this is going to help you reduce temperatures... but this doesnt explains why you are having worst temperatures now than before

 

[sandungas]

Tanks for the reply I removed the glue as much I could, you know that residue is hard to remove and always stay there something, do you have some trick to remove it completely? Afterwards I washed the ihs in a washbasin, to remove rest of residues.

Isopropil alcohol + cotton ear sticks + lot of delicated rubbing

The reason to remove the glue from the RSX memory chips and from the IHS's is mostly because it could be an obstacle that could avoid the IHS to touch the DIE properlly, but there is a small gap in them

 

[Viggen66]

Isopropil alcohol + cotton ear sticks + lot of delicated rubbing

The reason to remove the glue from the RSX memory chips and from the IHS's is mostly because it could be an obstacle that could avoid the IHS to touch the DIE properlly, but there is a small gap in them

Never thought of that gap between ihs and die on the rsx, the cell ihs doesn't have that issue and temps improved, it could be one possible cause, but is a pain to remove that rubbish glue

 

[MatthewUwU]

if this is stock id like to see this slim run with no thermal paste lol? this must be a troll post hahah

i mean never replace any thermal paste
first buy

 

[psykosis]

If someone EVER recommends not to use thermal paste, ignore EVERYTHING they say. Everything. Refusing to use thermal paste will cause nothing but damage to your machine. Explanation below.

99%* of the time a chip needs some form of thermal dissipation. This is done through thermal paste, to a chunk of metal called a heat sink, or connected directly to a usually metal tube called a heat pipe that is carried to the heat sink. This prevents overheating. When your chip reaches 60C+ you are talking temperatures of 140F. This is quite hot, and without dissipation can cause permanent damage to console. This can be apparent damage, or subtle damage that gradually increases over time.

*There are 1% cases that chips did not need active or passive cooling, but generally speaking these are low powered devices that are significantly older, or do not require the horsepower of a gaming system.

 

[sandungas]

i mean never replace any thermal paste
first buy

I guess there is an small gramatical misunderstanding, there is a big difference in between:
"Replace thermal paste... by... new thermal paste"
or...
"Replace thermal paste... by... used thermal paste"

Both are replacements, but it can be said the second one is a "recycling" (thats bad), the only times when i recycle the thermal paste is for this kind of tests i mentioned, or if im using it in low heat devcies or components (different than PC or console processors)

The basic test is to assemble and dissassemble the PS3 heatsink several times and see the pattern of "peaks" created in the pastes
This pattern of peaks should be randomly spreaded and should cover all the surface... incase you see a corner without peaks it means it was not touching the other surface properlly (with enought pressure, or not touching it at all)

In that test you can use the same paste re-applyed again, and again, and again as many times you want, because we are not even powering up the console
Actually... you could do it with butter or toothpaste because our only goal is to see that pattern of "peaks" created by the pressure

Spoiler

But dont use butter or other stuff different than thermal paste though, because could be oilly or had some substance that could be problematic later

The problem is most thermal pastes suffers a chemical reaction to heat usually named "curing"... after the paste has been "cured" there is no way to revert it back to his original state... so heating the paste and then re-applying again it is a mistake

The other reason is because when you spread the paste several times you are introducing "microbubbles"... the theory is this microbubbles are so small that are not visible to the bare eye... so we dont really know if we are creating that bubbles everytime we spread thermal paste.... so the golden rule is to dont mess around too much when applying the thermal paste

 

[Viggen66]

Well striped my ps3 as scraped the memories os the rsx as much as I could, I guess better cleaned than this is not possible. This time only put thermal paste on the die and not the rsx memories, as always the famous bug when the first time ps3 boots with new thermal paste underneath the ihs after some time 5 to 10 minutes displays normal temps.

Need to know new results after this work.

 

[wrx884]

u should be putting thermal paste on the GPU's rams u need to keep them cool as well. Thermal adhesive was not only to keep the IHS flat and stable but also to pride some thermal protection too. If u want to remove this glue easy some thinner will get it off easy with a cotton bud, just make sure u wipe over it again with IPA after.

i still see u have the silicon remaining on the CPU do the same for this u need to remove it fully. This u should be able to get a cleaner/flatter job even just by scraping it off with ur finger nail at the very least.

While it was a part did u check the IHS's and heat sinks flatness thats been advised already??? tho ur temps dont seem bad at all so i dont think this is much of an issue.

Have u tried another fan utility?

 

[Viggen66]

Don't know what happened starting having some graphical glitches like lots of vertical lines and some hangs, rebooted and issue was gone, played a game for thirty minutes no issues at all, turned the console again and Ps3 stopped working. Doesn't boot, green light after some seconds turns off. RiP

 

[Mozzbga]

Don't know what happened starting having some graphical glitches like lots of vertical lines and some hangs, rebooted and issue was gone, played a game for thirty minutes no issues at all, turned the console again and Ps3 stopped working. Doesn't boot, green light after some seconds turns off. RiP

Clean your motherboard with some ipa get some decent flux and reflow if you got a spare hour, may revive it for a while.