PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[Workz_777]

My CECHG has aluminum tape residue all over it, and the last person that "fixed" it left the RSX twisted clockwise, no capacitor replacement fixed this unit as it was fucked.

Hi, can i ask, when you say:- "the last person that fixed it left the RSX twisted clockwise" - by that i'm guessing the lid? If so, and the lid is twisted, how does the heat-sink block fit on top of the RSX?

Because the metal shield on that side has cut-outs, in the shape of the CPU/GPU so they can fit through and make contact with the heat-sink blocks. But if the lid(s) are not in their correct positions, and are slightly twisted, then the metal shield could possibly stop the processor(s) from touching the heatsink, as it bangs up against the non-aligned lid, before ever reaching the heat-sink blocks.

But maybe you could add a copper shim on top of the RSX, some are 0.5mm, some shims are like 1.5mm, that would help to bypass the cut out shape of the shield not ligning up with the shape of the twisted RSX lid?

Sorry if i mis-understood what you meant when you said:- "...left the RSX twisted clockwise", i'm just trying to keep my mind off my own PS3 at the moment

 

[blckbear_]

Hi, can i ask, when you say:- "the last person that fixed it left the RSX twisted clockwise" - by that i'm guessing the lid? If so, and the lid is twisted, how does the heat-sink block fit on top of the RSX?

Because the metal shield on that side has cut-outs, in the shape of the CPU/GPU so they can fit through and make contact with the heat-sink blocks. But if the lid(s) are not in their correct positions, and are slightly twisted, then the metal shield could possibly stop the processor(s) from touching the heatsink, as it bangs up against the non-aligned lid, before ever reaching the heat-sink blocks.

But maybe you could add a copper shim on top of the RSX, some are 0.5mm, some shims are like 1.5mm, that would help to bypass the cut out shape of the shield not ligning up with the shape of the twisted RSX lid?

Sorry if i mis-understood what you meant when you said:- "...left the RSX twisted clockwise", i'm just trying to keep my mind off my own PS3 at the moment

when I say it is clockwise, I literally mean that hahaha the dude tried to reball it and he soldered the entire rsx twisted

 

[Workz_777]

when I say it is clockwise, I literally mean that hahaha the dude tried to reball it and he soldered the entire rsx twisted

ohhhhh dear...

What does it do when you try to start it up? Does it give a RLOD, or a YLOD? Does it even do anything?

 

[ps3xbox]

No dice. I'm still getting a YLOD in ~4 seconds with all the jumps on the side of the board with the CELL and RSX chips (4 jumpers in total with 2 per chip). I'm thinking maybe I need to get some thicker wire? I think I might also try and pick up some 16 AWG wire to use as jumpers instead like Workz_777 is doing.

Oh know
What a shame. That's strange
Keep us posted mate

 

[blckbear_]

ohhhhh dear...

What does it do when you try to start it up? Does it give a RLOD, or a YLOD? Does it even do anything?

It YLODs instantly, changing the caps didn't fix it nor extend the YLOD time. If somehow the RSX is soldered correctly (ignoring the twist) then most likely the RSX is fried from all those reballings/reflows that it suffered.

 

[demetris]

You can't ignore the twist. What ever you try on this board won't work until rsx sits property.

Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

 

[blckbear_]

Yep, I'm pretty sure that's the issue, I'll borrow a heat gun some time in the near future and try relocating it. I'll probably do more damage than before but it's already dead so...

 

[Workz_777]

No dice. I'm still getting a YLOD in ~4 seconds with all the jumps on the side of the board with the CELL and RSX chips (4 jumpers in total with 2 per chip). I'm thinking maybe I need to get some thicker wire? I think I might also try and pick up some 16 AWG wire to use as jumpers instead like Workz_777 is doing.

Hi Blue, yeah you could try with thicker wire, that 16 AWG (solid core) is pretty thick 1.3mm (wire diameter), and like Sandungas mentioned:- it would be good to try and flatten the end of the wire (where you want to solder) by hitting it flat with a hammer, so it makes good contact.

I would cut the wire longer than you need it, shape it / flatten the ends, then re-cut it back to size.

I'm aiming to add the 2nd wire (per processor) tomorrow, all being well, and update you guys once done.

Now, back to getting drunk on Kit-Kats, although like my PS3 - that's not working either ...but i feel there might be a chance yet, cause' i still haven't heard that fat lady singing

 

[sandungas]

Another thing you can do with the solid core wire (additionally to hammering the tips) is to sandpaper it or scratch the tips with a knife... you know like sharpening the tip of a wooden stick
The goal is to create some microscopical marks in the surface of the wire tips, this is going to help the solder to attach to it

But dont go mad with this solders of the wire/s, there is many people that soldered the wires in a rought way (without caring about the details we was discussing) and the PS3 was working fine, so yours seems to be one of that cases where the repair looks fine but the problem is somewhere else :/

Specially in your case @Workz_777 your photos are some of the few where it can be seen visually that the solder job is perfect (no doubt about it), not sure what i would do if i where you... the only thing that makes me suspicious are the yellow capacitors, not sure i they have something special specs

And @Blue121368 you can try to replace the wires by what we was discussing, solid core, hammered (to make the tip a bit oval or plane), scratched a bit... and try to cover the tip completly with solder
The theory is to create a spherical solder blob first... and while is in melted state you need to "insert" the wire inside the sphere, this way the tip is covered completly
For this work is not so easy to achieve that because the wire is big (so the sphere needs to be huge), but anyway... try to achieve this a bit
As said... this is just theory, there is many people that did that solders in a dirty way and the PS3 was working fine
Your photos are not so clean but you are checking everything with multimeter... so probably is fine and is better to search for the problem somewhere else :/

when I say it is clockwise, I literally mean that hahaha the dude tried to reball it and he soldered the entire rsx twisted

This is a nice example of why is so important the proverb of "meassure twice and cut once", lol
I can imagine him when he realized about the masterpiece he created, that worths a big facepalm/facedesk

Yep, I'm pretty sure that's the issue, I'll borrow a heat gun some time in the near future and try relocating it. I'll probably do more damage than before but it's already dead so...

Yeah, thats the spirit, in the actual state the motherboard is dead so there is not much to lose
The first thing needed to be made is removing the RSX... and later well... thats like another story

Step 1) Remove the problem
Step 2) Try to fix it

 

[sandungas]

Btw another thing you should check are the fuses and thermistors of the motherboard, there are a bunch and i dont know where are located and his functions, but im rpetty sure there must be at least one or two related with that power lines connected to the tokins

The thermistors could be tricky to check because are like a "rearmable fuse" sensitive to the temperature caused by the current passing throught it
They are rated to "cut" the line at a specific temperature (so the circuit becomes open, no connection)
The problem is if you check them with a multimeter when are cold maybe they reports a valid result... but when they are hot they fails

 

[Workz_777]

Another thing you can do with the solid core wire (additionally to hammering the tips) is to sandpaper it or scratch the tips with a knife... you know like sharpening the tip of a wooden stick
The goal is to create some microscopical marks in the surface of the wire tips, this is going to help the solder to attach to it

But dont go mad with this solders of the wire/s, there is many people that soldered the wires in a rought way (without caring about the details we was discussing) and the PS3 was working fine, so yours seems to be one of that cases where the repair looks fine but the problem is somewhere else :/

Specially in your case @Workz_777 your photos are some of the few where it can be seen visually that the solder job is perfect (no doubt about it), not sure what i would do if i where you... the only thing that makes me suspicious are the yellow capacitors, not sure i they have something special specs

And @Blue121368 you can try to replace the wires by what we was discussing, solid core, hammered (to make the tip a bit oval or plane), scratched a bit... and try to cover the tip completly with solder
The theory is to create a spherical solder blob first... and while is in melted state you need to "insert" the wire inside the sphere, this way the tip is covered completly
For this work is not so easy to achieve that because the wire is big (so the sphere needs to be huge), but anyway... try to achieve this a bit
As said... this is just theory, there is many people that did that solders in a dirty way and the PS3 was working fine
Your photos are not so clean but you are checking everything with multimeter... so probably is fine and is better to search for the problem somewhere else :/



This is a nice example of why is so important the proverb of "meassure twice and cut once", lol
I can imagine him when he realized about the masterpiece he created, that worths a big facepalm/facedesk

Yeah, thats the spirit, in the actual state the motherboard is dead so there is not much to lose
The first thing needed to be made is removing the RSX... and later well... thats like another story

Step 1) Remove the problem
Step 2) Try to fix it

Thanks Sandungas, yeah i still wanna try with the low height black Panasonic type capacitors (470uF 2.5V), which i have ordered but still waiting for them to arrive. All being well if they arrive i'm planning on re-doing the whole thing using those capacitors.

In the meanwhile, i can try adding another wire to the other side of the board (per processor) and see what happens, also will follow your advise and try and get the wires completely covered in solder (once made flat on the ends).

 

[Grey Ghost]

Hi All, so here is the update, and what i have done until now:-

(1st attempt)
Replaced all NEC/Tokins...
Each one with 3 x 470uF - 2.5V (Vishay size B).
Using 3 x bridge wires on each side of the board, per processor.
(So 6 x wires each processor in total)
Wire was 23AWG solid core.
Result = YLOD.

(2nd attempt)
Added more caps, same type as above...
4 x 470uF - 2.5V per NEC/Tokin replacement.
Using 2 x bridge wires on each side of the board, per processor.
(So 4 x wires each processor in total)
Wire was 23AWG solid core.
Result = YLOD.

(3rd attempt)
Changed everything to the photos you see below.
4 x 470uF - 6.3V (AVX size D) per NEC/Tokin replacement.
Using 1 x bridge wire only per processor.
Wire was 16AWG solid core.
Result = YLOD.

Side Note:-
Then tried changing the PSU with another i had, but same result = YLOD. Then tried without Disc Drive, but again = YLOD. The YLOD now happens at about 2 - 3 secs, however before with all original NECs the YLOD was instant, like 1 sec.

Top Side (A)
View attachment 25758

Bottom Side (B)
View attachment 25759


I think i will try adding another wire (16AWG) to the other side of the board for each processor, just to see what results come from that. Will aim to update you guys once done. Meanwhile, i'm gonna go drown my sorrows with Kit-Kats & Coffee, for a few days, lol.

Perhaps it's not the NEC/TOKINS that are the cause of the YLOD on your unit. Maybe try checking all the fuses on the motherboard. If there is any that are blown it could mean that there is a short with the component associated with each fuse.

 

[Workz_777]

Perhaps it's not the NEC/TOKINS that are the cause of the YLOD on your unit. Maybe try checking all the fuses on the motherboard. If there is any that are blown it could mean that there is a short with the component associated with each fuse.

Hiya guys, i wish i had better news to report for you, but after checking all the fuses on the board (which seemed all good) and then adding another wire per processor (2 x wires each in total) ...my PS3 still has YLOD.

I'm gonna aim to replace those AVX 470uF 6.3V caps with the Panasonic black 470uF 2.5V caps if they arrive, all being well soon.

Well, i've neglected my share of the house-work since working on my PS3, so i have plenty to keep me busy in the meantime lol, and i'm sure that would make my missus happier than a fixed PS3

P.S. ...i also checked the thermistors "cold", which seemed o.k, but like Sandungas mentioned above, we can't be sure of them as they have a cut off (OL) with higher temps, which makes testing them tricky.

 

[Revak3115]

hey all
maybe its just my luck, but i buy these YLOD systems and replacing the top side NECs makes them boot again BUT they always have severe artifacting or GLOD after replacing the NECs.. UGH, i did revive one system by replacing the top side necs tho

 

[ps3xbox]

Thanks Sandungas, yeah i still wanna try with the low height black Panasonic type capacitors (470uF 2.5V), which i have ordered but still waiting for them to arrive. All being well if they arrive i'm planning on re-doing the whole thing using those capacitors.

In the meanwhile, i can try adding another wire to the other side of the board (per processor) and see what happens, also will follow your advise and try and get the wires completely covered in solder (once made flat on the ends).

Hi
Please try. Really want to know if it makes a hopefully it will

 

[Workz_777]

hey all
maybe its just my luck, but i buy these YLOD systems and replacing the top side NECs makes them boot again BUT they always have severe artifacting or GLOD after replacing the NECs.. UGH, i did revive one system by replacing the top side necs tho

Hi mate, when you say "top side", can i ask if you are meaning side (A) or side (B)? Sorry it's just what naturally faces upwards on the PS3 is side (B), and what could be called "top side" is actually facing downwards (side A), so it can get confusing lol.

 

[Workz_777]

Hi
Please try. Really want to know if it makes a hopefully it will

Hiya, yep did that (added 2nd wire to the other side of the board, per processor) and i still had the same result = ylod.

 

[Blue121368]

Hiya guys, i wish i had better news to report for you, but after checking all the fuses on the board (which seemed all good) and then adding another wire per processor (2 x wires each in total) ...my PS3 still has YLOD.

I'm gonna aim to replace those AVX 470uF 6.3V caps with the Panasonic black 470uF 2.5V caps if they arrive, all being well soon.

Well, i've neglected my share of the house-work since working on my PS3, so i have plenty to keep me busy in the meantime lol, and i'm sure that would make my missus happier than a fixed PS3

P.S. ...i also checked the thermistors "cold", which seemed o.k, but like Sandungas mentioned above, we can't be sure of them as they have a cut off (OL) with higher temps, which makes testing them tricky.

I think that I'm in the same situation as you are with your PS3. On my CECHA01, I still get YLOD when using the AUX or the Panasonic tantalum capacitors (check my first post to see the model numbers for them). I have tried adding more jumper wires on both sides of the board and also trying it with just the jumpers on a single side of the board (top and bottom sides). I have also gone through and checked all the marked fuses on the motherboard (the ones that have silkscreen on the PCB) and then I used the service manual to find and test the unmarked ones. I did the same with the thermistors (at room temp) and they all appear to be fine. Have you had a chance to use any thicker wire for the jumpers? I believe I have been using 20 AWG solid core wire and maybe this is why I still have YLOD?

 

[Fanhais]

I think that I'm in the same situation as you are with your PS3. On my CECHA01, I still get YLOD when using the AUX or the Panasonic tantalum capacitors (check my first post to see the model numbers for them). I have tried adding more jumper wires on both sides of the board and also trying it with just the jumpers on a single side of the board (top and bottom sides). I have also gone through and checked all the marked fuses on the motherboard (the ones that have silkscreen on the PCB) and then I used the service manual to find and test the unmarked ones. I did the same with the thermistors (at room temp) and they all appear to be fine. Have you had a chance to use any thicker wire for the jumpers? I believe I have been using 20 AWG solid core wire and maybe this is why I still have YLOD?

reballing if tantalum doesn't work or your board have shortcut

 

[Revak3115]

Hi mate, when you say "top side", can i ask if you are meaning side (A) or side (B)? Sorry it's just what naturally faces upwards on the PS3 is side (B), and what could be called "top side" is actually facing downwards (side A), so it can get confusing lol.

The side of the board where the BD connects bottom of the chipsets