i did noticed that but after the delid the ps3 is still working that cut on the cell was the top layer of the green varnish. The problem is the nec tokin during the gran turismo 6 testing causing the ps3 to shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light no ylod at all not overheating temps stay below 50c with the fan at 35% speed.i think you f*** up the cell cpu have copper shown after you delid so if this real i think you have a permanent YLOD, but if you are in lucky day you scratch the ground of cpu and the cpu can work
with these pads tested for short if any solder is joined together i get buzzing on my dmm for some reason
nice yea you need to put some tantanlum on that my 20gb fat ps3 did the same thing with gt6 i need when i got time to put here the photosi did noticed that but after the delid the ps3 is still working that cut on the cell was the top layer of the green varnish. The problem is the nec tokin during the gran turismo 6 testing causing the ps3 to shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light no ylod at all not overheating temps stay below 50c with the fan at 35% speed.
This why i need to replace the nec tokin for either new caps or original replacement. I just need someone to test their board to see if the v-out pads are somewhat linked to the ground or not that why im waiting to hear back from anyone who can verify my theory
did test that v-in to ground no beeps at all so that ruled out ok. from v-in and v-out i get a reading with the icon arrowplus on the dmm on rsx 2.203 and the cell 2.003 seems ok here if i do the reversed probe i get 0.212 on rsx and 0.202 so i think there no short just me confusedI think it's normal to have continuity over these pads since there are capacitors on the underside of the board still connected between V-in and GND.
If you hold your probes on V-in and GND for a couple of seconds, does the beep stop? If it stops it just means that the caps are getting drained, if not you probably have a short.
Sounds good! No shorts, only caps on the bottom acting like capsdid test that v-in to ground no beeps at all so that ruled out ok. from v-in and v-out i get a reading with the icon arrowplus on the dmm on rsx 2.203 and the cell 2.003 seems ok here so i think there no short just me confused

thanks for reassuring me thought i ruined the board now next step is getting the tantanlum caps or the original nec tokin did see 10 pieces of tokin from china for about €6.60 on ebay and 50 pieces of tantanlum 470uf 2.5v thin d case for about €10 on aliexpressSounds good! No shorts, only caps on the bottom acting like caps![]()

@Edwired I never got the point of bridging them since they share the same v-in and ground, test with continuity to be sure.
I realize this might be on the verge of off-topic, but could anyone help me figure if these capacitors are sufficient for replacing the NEC tokins?
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Here is the listing for my purchase too. I can't tell if it's needs 6.3V to operate or if it takes up to 6.3V max to safely operate. The seller wont respond so I'm a bit in the dark.
View attachment 20473
@Edwired I never got the point of bridging them since they share the same v-in and ground, test with continuity to be sure.
i did noticed that but after the delid the ps3 is still working that cut on the cell was the top layer of the green varnish. The problem is the nec tokin during the gran turismo 6 testing causing the ps3 to shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light no ylod at all not overheating temps stay below 50c with the fan at 35% speed.
This why i need to replace the nec tokin for either new caps or original replacement. I just need someone to test their board to see if the v-out pads are somewhat linked to the ground or not that why im waiting to hear back from anyone who can verify my theory
That handy to know so basically like a old bridge with old links but been replaced with new bridge with extra links to work the same way if im corrected on that
hey i was lucky as my surgical knife broke halfway round the cell ihs causing that mark and i was like shitting my brains out then i had to put it back together quickly to see if it still working and it is during that time. I must have a lucky rabbit's foot close by lol
I did that permanent marking method you mentioned before that i tested it with the dmm it confirmed as ground on the cell cpu jeez i wont be doing another delidding for another whilegee ur very lucky that cut on the cpu is very close to some important traces on the cell. since it is exposed, get a permanent marker and black out that exposed trace a few times letting the marker pen dry each time u do it. this will take away the oxygen that will get to it now that can cause it to start corroding. it will also stop any shorts if the IHS decides to short out on that trace. It should be a ground trace tho so should be ok if that happens, u can check with ur multimeter to confirm.
im pretty sure u understand me there haha but im not 100% sure i understand u there haha sorry mate but yeah its to create a bridge to the other positive.
Nothing like a spit and polish will fix that buddy for $17 ya cant go wrong
Yeah now saying that sony did build a tank of a system more better than xbox 360 and i wanted to say thank you for putting the guide together. we all got the keep the old girl aliveI see this thread is still active, nice going lads![]()