PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

@Edwired I think you've done a good job, as you said a little bit of cleaning and you should be good to go.
So this is what we got:
8vrL8sR.jpg
 
dmm buzzing on these no short is visable and no joints connected.jpg

with these pads tested for short if any solder is joined together i get buzzing on my dmm for some reason.
But when i tested the v-in and v-out i get a reading in the dmm but no short it just when i test the v-out to ground it buzzes the dmm saying it shorted can any one test this as soon as possible and let me know asap
 
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Last night I replaced all the NEC/TOKINs on the top side of the board with 3 x 6.3v 470uf tantalums each. Tried to boot it just to see what would happen and... YLOD.

Today I bridged the pads on the top side and the console booted.
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The real test will be what happens when it's under load.
 
i think you f*** up the cell cpu have copper shown after you delid so if this real i think you have a permanent YLOD, but if you are in lucky day you scratch the ground of cpu and the cpu can work
 
i think you f*** up the cell cpu have copper shown after you delid so if this real i think you have a permanent YLOD, but if you are in lucky day you scratch the ground of cpu and the cpu can work
i did noticed that but after the delid the ps3 is still working that cut on the cell was the top layer of the green varnish. The problem is the nec tokin during the gran turismo 6 testing causing the ps3 to shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light no ylod at all not overheating temps stay below 50c with the fan at 35% speed.
This why i need to replace the nec tokin for either new caps or original replacement. I just need someone to test their board to see if the v-out pads are somewhat linked to the ground or not that why im waiting to hear back from anyone who can verify my theory
 
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with these pads tested for short if any solder is joined together i get buzzing on my dmm for some reason

I think it's normal to have continuity over these pads since there are capacitors on the underside of the board still connected between V-in and GND.

If you hold your probes on V-in and GND for a couple of seconds, does the beep stop? If it stops it just means that the caps are getting drained (which is expected), if not you might have a short.
 
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i did noticed that but after the delid the ps3 is still working that cut on the cell was the top layer of the green varnish. The problem is the nec tokin during the gran turismo 6 testing causing the ps3 to shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light no ylod at all not overheating temps stay below 50c with the fan at 35% speed.
This why i need to replace the nec tokin for either new caps or original replacement. I just need someone to test their board to see if the v-out pads are somewhat linked to the ground or not that why im waiting to hear back from anyone who can verify my theory
nice yea you need to put some tantanlum on that my 20gb fat ps3 did the same thing with gt6 i need when i got time to put here the photos
 
I think it's normal to have continuity over these pads since there are capacitors on the underside of the board still connected between V-in and GND.

If you hold your probes on V-in and GND for a couple of seconds, does the beep stop? If it stops it just means that the caps are getting drained, if not you probably have a short.
did test that v-in to ground no beeps at all so that ruled out ok. from v-in and v-out i get a reading with the icon arrowplus on the dmm on rsx 2.203 and the cell 2.003 seems ok here if i do the reversed probe i get 0.212 on rsx and 0.202 so i think there no short just me confused
 
did test that v-in to ground no beeps at all so that ruled out ok. from v-in and v-out i get a reading with the icon arrowplus on the dmm on rsx 2.203 and the cell 2.003 seems ok here so i think there no short just me confused
Sounds good! No shorts, only caps on the bottom acting like caps :encouragement:
 
Sounds good! No shorts, only caps on the bottom acting like caps :encouragement:
thanks for reassuring me thought i ruined the board now next step is getting the tantanlum caps or the original nec tokin did see 10 pieces of tokin from china for about €6.60 on ebay and 50 pieces of tantanlum 470uf 2.5v thin d case for about €10 on aliexpress
 
cant wait to get this ps3 up and going again as it got the rebug 4.84.2 with 500gb hard drive since i had the ps3 it originally had the firmware 3.55 i kinda knew something was brewing in the homebrew forums about jailbreak been done :)
 
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@Edwired I never got the point of bridging them since they share the same v-in and ground, test with continuity to be sure.


@Edwired I never got the point of bridging them since they share the same v-in and ground, test with continuity to be sure.[/QUOTE]

if u look at the pics of the tokin caps it will explain quite clear to help understand a bit better. since the tokin caps shares 2 capacitors in the one chip the positive must be linked to make both work in parallel. ur correct in saying the vias are linked from top and bottom but not on the same side. so as soon as u remove all caps from the same side eg. say GPU, u break that link that the tokin caps provide so the extra wires give u that missing link back helps the new caps join the full parallel circuit.
I realize this might be on the verge of off-topic, but could anyone help me figure if these capacitors are sufficient for replacing the NEC tokins?
Wqsf1OG.jpg

Here is the listing for my purchase too. I can't tell if it's needs 6.3V to operate or if it takes up to 6.3V max to safely operate. The seller wont respond so I'm a bit in the dark.

These can handle up to 6.3V so they will work fine. we only need 2,5V so u have plenty left up ur sleeve to work.
 
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@Edwired I never got the point of bridging them since they share the same v-in and ground, test with continuity to be sure.

if u look at the pics of the tokin caps it will explain quite clear to help understand a bit better. since the tokin caps shares 2 capacitors in the one chip the positive must be linked to make both work in parallel. ur correct in saying the vias are linked from top and bottom but not on the same side. so as soon as u remove all caps from the same side eg. say GPU, u break that link that the tokin caps provide so the extra wires give u that missing link back helps the new caps join the full parallel circuit.


These can handle up to 6.3V so they will work fine. we only need 2,5V so u have plenty left up ur sleeve to work.[/QUOTE]
That handy to know so basically like a old bridge with old links but been replaced with new bridge with extra links to work the same way if im corrected on that
 
i did noticed that but after the delid the ps3 is still working that cut on the cell was the top layer of the green varnish. The problem is the nec tokin during the gran turismo 6 testing causing the ps3 to shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light no ylod at all not overheating temps stay below 50c with the fan at 35% speed.
This why i need to replace the nec tokin for either new caps or original replacement. I just need someone to test their board to see if the v-out pads are somewhat linked to the ground or not that why im waiting to hear back from anyone who can verify my theory

gee ur very lucky that cut on the cpu is very close to some important traces on the cell. since it is exposed, get a permanent marker and black out that exposed trace a few times letting the marker pen dry each time u do it. this will take away the oxygen that will get to it now that can cause it to start corroding. it will also stop any shorts if the IHS decides to short out on that trace. It should be a ground trace tho so should be ok if that happens, u can check with ur multimeter to confirm.


That handy to know so basically like a old bridge with old links but been replaced with new bridge with extra links to work the same way if im corrected on that

im pretty sure u understand me there haha but im not 100% sure i understand u there haha sorry mate but yeah its to create a bridge to the other positive.
 
@wrx884 Thanks for clarifying, this makes sense, I must have missed the explanation along the way!

I just bought the shittiest, most butchered and manhandled CECHA01 you can find. I don't have much hope for this one. (I know this was stupid, but I really wanted a hobby project for my b-day)
 
hey i was lucky as my surgical knife broke halfway round the cell ihs causing that mark and i was like shitting my brains out then i had to put it back together quickly to see if it still working and it is during that time. I must have a lucky rabbit's foot close by lol
 
hey i was lucky as my surgical knife broke halfway round the cell ihs causing that mark and i was like shitting my brains out then i had to put it back together quickly to see if it still working and it is during that time. I must have a lucky rabbit's foot close by lol
gee ur very lucky that cut on the cpu is very close to some important traces on the cell. since it is exposed, get a permanent marker and black out that exposed trace a few times letting the marker pen dry each time u do it. this will take away the oxygen that will get to it now that can cause it to start corroding. it will also stop any shorts if the IHS decides to short out on that trace. It should be a ground trace tho so should be ok if that happens, u can check with ur multimeter to confirm.




im pretty sure u understand me there haha but im not 100% sure i understand u there haha sorry mate but yeah its to create a bridge to the other positive.
I did that permanent marking method you mentioned before that i tested it with the dmm it confirmed as ground on the cell cpu jeez i wont be doing another delidding for another while :)
 
@wrx884 Thanks for clarifying, this makes sense, I must have missed the explanation along the way!

I just bought the shittiest, most butchered and manhandled CECHA01 you can find. I don't have much hope for this one. (I know this was stupid, but I really wanted a hobby project for my b-day)
Nothing like a spit and polish will fix that buddy for $17 ya cant go wrong :) lol
 
I see this thread is still active, nice going lads, good luck fixing thoes PS3s, hopefully at this rate, this method will become widely-known, which is a good thing, for anyone in seek of repairing theyre own unit :)
 
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