PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[raidriar]

I'm going to leave a standing offer open to the first person that can send me a couple of TOKINs that can be verified to cause problems. $100 in credit from my eBay store, or $50 cash. They will need to be intact so that I can install them on one of my systems. I probably won't be logging back in here much since it's seeming like a cult at this point, so shoot me a message on eBay if anyone can ever provide them.

Not only will you be a hero to everyone here for shutting me up for good, but I'll then redeem myself by being the hero that can provide the details of exactly what's happening. If I can't sort it out in my own workshop, I have friends that work in multi-million dollar labs that would love to help with a mystery.

I will provide video to anyone that sends any so that you can see them working fine / why I'm not paying you. You'll just need to mark them in some way that I can capture on video with my shitty camera.

You're not alone in expressing skepticism about the tokins being the problem. You're the only one here to provide some real evidence to back up your claims vs everybody else's hearsay, and I've had my doubts about the capacitors being a problem unless some have visibly burst or spilled their guts out all over the board. I'd also be interested in seeing hard evidence of the capacitors being the culprit here. I have a PS3 that will arbitrarily YLOD under load but I'm more inclined to think it's a faulty power supply vs a bad board component.

 

[Edwired]

Since we are all helping each other out in this don't feel bad as you have tested your findings and others have said if games are crashing it pointing to tokins is the cause then please do understand not every time that ylod is caused by bga it could be related to something else on the board. You are trying to shoot yourself in the foot by telling or trying to pay someone to provide a ps3 that is pre-ylod for testing. You just have to buy your own bud

 

[Donkeybizle]

From the PS3 that I've worked on so far doing this repair has shown that the capacitors have layers in them. These NEC capacitors I would assume, assuming here, assuming here one more time so everybody knows, that heat makes them delaminate from the other layers inside the capacitor. Making the capacitance not match up as well. It doesn't take a lot of software to run hardware to do self checks in for voltages not to come up exact Lee into the threshold they were designed to pick up on. Who knows I'm talking on my ass TBH but just my five cents

 

[Edwired]

Seems like a good theory similar principal in li-ion battery over time it just either puff up or play dead. Then again we are talking about the chemical inside of the package that gone through the cycle of been switch on and off as well heat and cold which can change the reaction causing it to lose the original value overtime as capacitors suffers from the similar cycle or bad batch is what I'm thinking of in PC and other electronics. As for Sony they thought it was a good idea to strink the size of tokin when it clearly wasn't a bright move since of poor cooling on top of the board resulting this problem due to lack of space.

 

[Donkeybizle]

Yeah I'm thinking about missing an old laptop fan to the top side to see if that helps at all lol the PSU gets to 75C HOT!

btw picked up 3 more A01 today. Will keep you guys updated.

 

[wrx884]

I'm going to leave a standing offer open to the first person that can send me a couple of TOKINs that can be verified to cause problems. $100 in credit from my eBay store, or $50 cash. They will need to be intact so that I can install them on one of my systems. I probably won't be logging back in here much since it's seeming like a cult at this point, so shoot me a message on eBay if anyone can ever provide them.

Not only will you be a hero to everyone here for shutting me up for good, but I'll then redeem myself by being the hero that can provide the details of exactly what's happening. If I can't sort it out in my own workshop, I have friends that work in multi-million dollar labs that would love to help with a mystery.

I will provide video to anyone that sends any so that you can see them working fine / why I'm not paying you. You'll just need to mark them in some way that I can capture on video with my shitty camera.

why u still got to be an ass about this? surely u can pick ur words better?

You're not alone in expressing skepticism about the tokins being the problem. You're the only one here to provide some real evidence to back up your claims vs everybody else's hearsay, and I've had my doubts about the capacitors being a problem unless some have visibly burst or spilled their guts out all over the board. I'd also be interested in seeing hard evidence of the capacitors being the culprit here. I have a PS3 that will arbitrarily YLOD under load but I'm more inclined to think it's a faulty power supply vs a bad board component.

curious since its such a cheap simple fix to try the PSU why haven't u tried that?

 

[squeept]

why u still got be an ass about this? surely u can pick ur words better?

Aside from the cult comment, I thought I was being pretty playful. Emoji.

The lab comment is just fact. I will take it to an expensive lab. No emoji.

 

[wrx884]

Aside from the cult comment, I thought I was being pretty playful. Emoji.

The lab comment is just fact. I will take it to an expensive lab. No emoji.

yeah.... na u just showed ur old colours again IMO just show some respect like u have been given lately.

 

[squeept]

yeah.... na u just showed ur old colours again IMO just show some respect like u have been given lately.

Well, shit. If I don't even know when I'm being an asshole accidentally, then how am I ever supposed to do it on purpose? Takes the fun right out of it.

 

[wrx884]

Well, shit. If I don't even know when I'm being an asshole accidentally, then how am I ever supposed to do it on purpose? Takes the fun right out of it.

fun is taking the piss out of everyone here is it? u know ur being a dick again mate stop playing the sympathy card we can see straight through it. everyone else put their differences aside to try work through this yet u cant? im almost certain ur step father must have dropped u on ur head as a baby......

 

[Edwired]

DAMN two lovers at it LOLOLOLOL

 

[raidriar]

curious since its such a cheap simple fix to try the PSU why haven't u tried that?

I am lazy to pay 30$ for another PSU and too lazy to disassemble another PS3 to swap PSUs so I just play on another CECHA01

 

[squeept]

fun is taking the piss out of everyone here is it? u know ur being a dick again mate stop playing the sympathy card we can see straight through it. everyone else put their differences aside to try work through this yet u cant? im almost certain ur step father must have dropped u on ur head as a baby......

Dude, chill. I promise you're reading my tone all wrong here.

 

[Beanerman]

Mine is delayed ylod. It actually will eventually stay on after about a dozen or so attempts to power on.
I have replaced thermals and such, so I thought this might be a last resort.
Once it finally starts up, it will stay on unless I try to play a ps2 game which kicks the fan into high gear and console shuts down.
Any ideas??

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Beanerman]

Be sure before you attempt this repair that you can determine that you yLOD is a delayed yellow or an instant yellow. In most cases if it is instant yellow after you turn on the consul it is something broken as something like a short or CPU related.

Above question

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[SiegHart93]

Mine is delayed ylod. It actually will eventually stay on after about a dozen or so attempts to power on.
I have replaced thermals and such, so I thought this might be a last resort.
Once it finally starts up, it will stay on unless I try to play a ps2 game which kicks the fan into high gear and console shuts down.
Any ideas??

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

My PS3 CECHE01 had that kind of ylod u mention and a weird issue every time i tried to power off the console it just 3 beeps and flashing red light (no ylod) my first attempt of repair i used was the heat gun only on the nec tokins from both top and bottom of the board 350º 3:20mins on both sides just to make sure and test if the problem was tokins related. After that my console turned on every time with no issues, the only problem was that it ylods with demanding games like the last of us and bioshock infinite. Then i did what was mentioned in the thread, i replaced just 2 nec tokins and trust me im an amateur at soldering small things , one from the rsx and one from the cell (in the side of the board in where rsx and the cell are not present) with 4 330uf 2.5v tantalums capacitors for each tokins. After that my old fatty boy came back to life like brand new and can now play every single ps3 , ps2 and ps1 games with no issues and it fixed the weird problem when powering off. So replacing the tokins are the real fix for that kind of ylod on the ps3. Hope u can solve ur problem by doing the procedure with the tantalums as its mentioned in the thread. Good luck

Sorry for my english :P

 

[Donkeybizle]

Update 3: replaced tokins on top 1 so far, with 4 470uf. On the RSX side. So 1 out of 4 tokins are replaced on the PSU side. Turns out I bought V case caps, they are too fat.

I have a 3-5second YLOD. so I deattached 1 of the 4 caps that I soldered on and the YLOD went to instant. put it away for now, will continues tomorrow. Will get to tinkering tomorrow.

 

[Beanerman]

My PS3 CECHE01 had that kind of ylod u mention and a weird issue every time i tried to power off the console it just 3 beeps and flashing red light (no ylod) my first attempt of repair i used was the heat gun only on the nec tokins from both top and bottom of the board 350º 3:20mins on both sides just to make sure and test if the problem was tokins related. After that my console turned on every time with no issues, the only problem was that it ylods with demanding games like the last of us and bioshock infinite. Then i did what was mentioned in the thread, i replaced just 2 nec tokins and trust me im an amateur at soldering small things , one from the rsx and one from the cell (in the side of the board in where rsx and the cell are not present) with 4 330uf 2.5v tantalums capacitors for each tokins. After that my old fatty boy came back to life like brand new and can now play every single ps3 , ps2 and ps1 games with no issues and it fixed the weird problem when powering off. So replacing the tokins are the real fix for that kind of ylod on the ps3. Hope u can solve ur problem by doing the procedure with the tantalums as its mentioned in the thread. Good luck

Sorry for my english :P

Ok, thank you for responding.
I have ordered 470uf capacitors. Should have them by the weekend, I'll give it a go and report back.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[Maroon Storm]

Hello, again. First off, I think very difficult to take those necs off without heatgun. But i managed to do it, so I hope I did an acceptable job. My problem is, which version is better 5 or 6 on the bottom side. I think maybe the cable is too thick I`m not sure. So this is my plane how to do it. This is the DYN-001. And also the middle 5th one is not connecting in the middle so I don`t know that version how it works really.

Result: I've had enough for today. The ps just shutdown instantly. I followed this image: https://i.imgur.com/p0EgyxF.jpg, except on the bottom I've used 6. 1st I've tried just the bottom ones but ylod (not instant shutdown). Checked the top NECs they were decolored so I replaced them also. Maybe I need to use more tantalum on top or just really my 3-4 hours wasn't enough to connect tandalums together I don't know I've checked with multimeter It looked every connection fine.

 

[Dmitriy Semenov]

Hello everyone, I managed to fix the PS3. For this it took 15 tantals 330 / 2.5
Tantalums need to be soldered from the V-in side (I have a solder but 3 each) and from the V-out side (I have 1 soldered)

Here is the performance of the PS3 (two years waiting for this repair)

The day before, I soldered 12 tantalums from the V-in side and it didn't work, the PS3 turned off immediately, I added 3 tantalums (2 from the top side of the board and 1 from the bottom) from the V-out side, and it worked !!!
Thanks for this repair method. I am very satisfied, now I hope PS3 will work for a long time!