PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Demetri, glad it worked for you.
doesn't look like tutorial pics, but obviously it worked. I see folks do this different ways.
I'm just trying to get a better understanding so when my capacitors get here, I can try this myself as well.

So far:: this is where I've gotten

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[QUOTE = "Бинерман, должность: 216851, участник: 52374"] Деметрий, рад, что это сработало для вас.
не похоже на учебные картинки, но, очевидно, это сработало. Я вижу, что люди делают это по-разному.
Я просто пытаюсь лучше понять, поэтому, когда мои конденсаторы попадут сюда, я тоже смогу попробовать это.

До сих пор :: это то, где я получил

Отправлено с моего SM-N950U с использованием Tapatalk
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[/ QUOTE]
Sorry for my English, apparently I meant this
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I knew it I should use three tantrums for each NEC's on the top side I just haven't had the time to attach 2 more since than.

Hello everyone, I managed to fix the PS3. For this it took 15 tantals 330 / 2.5
Tantalums need to be soldered from the V-in side (I have a solder but 3 each) and from the V-out side (I have 1 soldered)
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Here is the performance of the PS3 (two years waiting for this repair)
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The day before, I soldered 12 tantalums from the V-in side and it didn't work, the PS3 turned off immediately, I added 3 tantalums (2 from the top side of the board and 1 from the bottom) from the V-out side, and it worked !!!
Thanks for this repair method. I am very satisfied, now I hope PS3 will work for a long time!
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My PS3 CECHE01 had that kind of ylod u mention and a weird issue every time i tried to power off the console it just 3 beeps and flashing red light (no ylod) my first attempt of repair i used was the heat gun only on the nec tokins from both top and bottom of the board 350º 3:20mins on both sides just to make sure and test if the problem was tokins related. After that my console turned on every time with no issues, the only problem was that it ylods with demanding games like the last of us and bioshock infinite. Then i did what was mentioned in the thread, i replaced just 2 nec tokins and trust me im an amateur at soldering small things , one from the rsx and one from the cell (in the side of the board in where rsx and the cell are not present) with 4 330uf 2.5v tantalums capacitors for each tokins. After that my old fatty boy came back to life like brand new and can now play every single ps3 , ps2 and ps1 games with no issues and it fixed the weird problem when powering off. So replacing the tokins are the real fix for that kind of ylod on the ps3. Hope u can solve ur problem by doing the procedure with the tantalums as its mentioned in the thread. Good luck

Sorry for my english :P
Success! I replaced 1nec, rsx, just like tutorial. CECH-G
4- 470uf tantaliums.
Covered them with electric tape.
Put system back together, and Boom, no YLOD. I would've used my own finished pics, but I got so excited, I just put it back together before I realized, LOL.
Thank you Naked_Snake!
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Success! I replaced 1nec, rsx, just like tutorial. CECH-G
4- 470uf tantaliums.
Covered them with electric tape.
Put system back together, and Boom, no YLOD. I would've used my own finished pics, but I got so excited, I just put it back together before I realized, LOL.
Thank you Naked_Snake!
c2dd15685f5adee5f4db2b8f8810cd72.jpg
70b0d166541b2fb4f3089cb3000eaf2f.jpg


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Welcome to the Tantalums PS3 club bro :D ! glad to see your success with ur ps3. Im hopping to get a CECHA01 with ylod and do the nec replacement like i did with my CECHE01 :P
 
Now, what do ya'll think about these temps?
After playing a ps2 game for about 10 minutes, which I couldn't even do until changing the nec.
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Now, what do ya'll think about these temps?
After playing a ps2 game for about 10 minutes, which I couldn't even do until changing the nec.
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Bro use arctic silver 5 thermal compound for better temps on your ps3 ! and i recommend u to install control fan utility and set the fan in a range in where u see the temps around 50-60 max. I use the control fan at max and my temps are 49º on cell and 38º on rsx (On my CECHE01) the fan noise don't bother me because i play with headsets, but thats up to u bro
 
How is everyone removing the NEC/TOKIN's so easily? I can't remove mine on a test board.
I removed it easily with a heath gun + flux and a flat knife with careful and after removing it. i used isopropyl alcohol to clean it and then i soldered the tantalums with careful too. You just need to keep in mind that you need to be really careful with the traces beneath the nec tokins when using the knife.
 
Seems everyone getting good results lately. i got the 10 new nec tokins just arrived during the week and i currently waiting on the ps3 to arrive from england the guy is kinda busy with work since as im not in any hurry. so i just currently testing the new nec toking to see what i can read from it and compare it to the old one :).

It shows the old nec tokin had a reading of 1.579 mf and the new is 2.036 mf so yes i can confirm that the old tokin have degraded badly over time which would explained the game crashing and/or ylod
 
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@Beanerman what speed are you running webman fan at? The CELL temps needs to be dealt with!

I haven't used webman. Just Multiman to load my ps2 games. I will take these suggestions though. I'll try controlling fan and I'll order me some arctic 5 @SiegHart93 . I used MX4 thermal compound.
Thanks guys, i was worried about those temps. We'll get this fixed, LOL.
 
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How is everyone removing the NEC/TOKIN's so easily? I can't remove mine on a test board.
I removed it easily with a heath gun + flux and a flat knife with careful and after removing it. i used isopropyl alcohol to clean it and then i soldered the tantalums with careful too. You just need to keep in mind that you need to be really careful with the traces beneath the nec tokins when using the knife.

Totally agree. That's also why i put thick tape around the NEC, post #881 has pics, before i started cutting the plastic shell off. Heat gun, or solder iron carefully, and a plastic flat knife or pry tool is also what i used.
 
Bro use arctic silver 5 thermal compound for better temps on your ps3 ! and i recommend u to install control fan utility and set the fan in a range in where u see the temps around 50-60 max. I use the control fan at max and my temps are 49º on cell and 38º on rsx (On my CECHE01) the fan noise don't bother me because i play with headsets, but thats up to u bro

Off Topic,,,
My wife is going to kill me, I just ordered 3 more Phat boys to fix, LOL
 
I haven't used webman. Just Multiman to load my ps2 games. I will take these suggestions though. I'll try controlling fan and I'll order me some arctic 5 @SiegHart93 . I used MX4 thermal compound.
Thanks guys, i was worried about those temps. We'll get this fixed, LOL.

Dont bother wasting money with getting the AS5 the MX4 will do its job fine and u wont see much, if any differences. U also dont want to use any utilities while ur trying to get ur temps down for the moment as there might be other reasons for ur temps. for that we need more info on whats been done when u applied thermal paste b4? did u do it properly or only half do the job and expect cooler temps?
 
Dont bother wasting money with getting the AS5 the MX4 will do its job fine and u wont see much, if any differences. U also dont want to use any utilities while ur trying to get ur temps down for the moment as there might be other reasons for ur temps. for that we need more info on whats been done when u applied thermal paste b4? did u do it properly or only half do the job and expect cooler temps?

Well, it's not the first thermal job I've done. I get a nice smooth thin layer on the whole cpu/rsx. Other than that, the only other thing I've done to this system is change 1 NEC.
Do you guys think changing more nec's would make a diff, or just re-compound
 
Well, it's not the first thermal job I've done. I get a nice smooth thin layer on the whole cpu/rsx. Other than that, the only other thing I've done to this system is change 1 NEC.
Do you guys think changing more nec's would make a diff, or just re-compound

have u only applied it on top of the IHS's and thats it?

no changing more NEC's wont effect the temps this is a whole diff issue
 
Trouble about Arctic silver 5 needs 200 hours break in period and as well electrical conductivity materials in the paste of a higher chance of shorting out something. MX-4 is the way forward as it works out of the box as apply and forget and no break in period
 
have u only applied it on top of the IHS's and thats it?

no changing more NEC's wont effect the temps this is a whole diff issue

Yes, Just on top. I didn't want to risk scratching the traces trying to "pop the top" if ya know what i mean, LOL
 
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