PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

SiegHart93 said:
I don't understand why the ps3 that u replaced two necs on cell and three on rsx its not working properly. Have u noticed if the poles of the tantalums are well welded and not causing any short?.

Here i leave an image of one of my works with a CECHA01. Notice that i scratched the varnish cover on every nec tokin to have more freedom welding the tantalums. I took that photo before i finished the replacement because i replaced all the necs including the one that appears on the photo and till this day that ps3 is working flawless with no issue and no more funny random shut offs on demanding games.

Note: I used tantalums of 330uf 2.5v (4 per each tokin) i leaved the necs on bottom as they work as a bridge for the tantalums as is stated in the thread.
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I'm pretty sure the tantalums are soldered properly but i plan on starting from scratch anyway on this machine. I'have ordered some new tantalums and they should be delivered in the coming weeks.

i was planning on doing the same and removing the covering to have more freedom soldering the negative point
 
SiegHart93 said:
I don't understand why the ps3 that u replaced two necs on cell and three on rsx its not working properly. Have u noticed if the poles of the tantalums are well welded and not causing any short?.

Here i leave an image of one of my works with a CECHA01. Notice that i scratched the varnish cover on every nec tokin to have more freedom welding the tantalums. I took that photo before i finished the replacement because i replaced all the necs including the one that appears on the photo and till this day that ps3 is working flawless with no issue and no more funny random shut offs on demanding games.

Note: I used tantalums of 330uf 2.5v (4 per each tokin) i leaved the necs on bottom as they work as a bridge for the tantalums as is stated in the thread.
Click to expand...
I've been wondering about this approach, because soldering the tans in an angle is such a pain... Did you also bridge the space between the two rsx tokins? And what did you use to clean up the masking? I've heard fiberglass pens are pretty good for that...
 
Can anyone come up with design pcb like qsb to solder mixture of tantalum caps and ceramic caps in parallel to act as proadlizer capacitor?

or proadlizer socket adapter...for easy changing proadlizer caps when needed...

i wonder if this could be achieve ...
 
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marciolsf said:
I've been wondering about this approach, because soldering the tans in an angle is such a pain... Did you also bridge the space between the two rsx tokins? And what did you use to clean up the masking? I've heard fiberglass pens are pretty good for that...
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I didn't use any bridge, i just replace the necs with the tantalums and then i cover them with a black tape for isolation.

To clean the masking varnish i use a toothbrush and isopropyl alcohol 70%.
 
hoyohoo said:
Do you have a link for the tantal caps you are using? Maybe they ship to germany too.
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I bought mine from Amazon, but it seems a few people bought them from aliexpress. That's coming straight out of China, maybe that'll be cheaper? They have a ton of options, and some are definitely cheaper than others... I'd worry about quality, though.
 
This is what i use and they are top quality and thin. They are Panasonic brand and never had any fails
eef55f09bd9e51040807d3c472130108.jpg


Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
 
Same i'm using. I'm starting to think they're enough to get the PS3 to start but not good enough to give full stability with the more demanding games. Could be wrong tho
 
gmipf said:
2x to get 20 and used 4 till now.
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And which ones have you changed? How do you know, which one to change? Did it work for you?

So, can I start with, lets say, 1 NEC per Chip (GPU/CPU)? Or should I change them all? Can I use a multimeter to check, which ones are dead?
 
hoyohoo said:
And which ones have you changed? How do you know, which one to change? Did it work for you?

So, can I start with, lets say, 1 NEC per Chip (GPU/CPU)? Or should I change them all? Can I use a multimeter to check, which ones are dead?
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Just try it with the first one. The first one is at the backside of the GPU, the right one, if you look from the opposite side of the HDMI and other output ports.

The most right on this picture:

https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/images/d/da/COK-001_BOTTOM.JPG
 
Ah ok, thank you very much. So, I go from right to left?
Btw, how do I remove the old one? I saw some videos, where they did it with a knife.
 
hoyohoo said:
Ah ok, thank you very much. So, I go from right to left?
Btw, how do I remove the old one? I saw some videos, where they did it with a knife.
Click to expand...

I have removed the upper casing with a needle nose pliers. Preheated the other side of the board on lowest settings with a ceramic grill and removed it with a heat gun, slowly increased the temp of the heat gun beginning at 280°C. I think you need at least 350°C to remove it. Usage of capton tape is recommended to cover other neighbor components.
 
Ok, thank you. I do have a hot air station and a soldering iron, but no heat gun. And sadly, no capton tape either. I don't even know, how to "use" capton tape. Do I just cover everything nearby with a layer?
 
hoyohoo said:
Ok, thank you. I do have a hot air station and a soldering iron, but no heat gun. And sadly, no capton tape either. I don't even know, how to "use" capton tape. Do I just cover everything nearby with a layer?
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Yes just cover all nearby components with a layer. Hot air station is an even better option for little components. But I recommend preheating of the board, otherwise you can kill the board with a heat shock.
 
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