PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Hey guys, first of all, thank you for this awesome TuT and giving me hope. I have a rare PS3 60 GB Version, supporting PS2 Games, but I have some issues finding the right capacitors here in germany. I find some, but they are way too expensive, imho.
So, my question is, can I use electrolytic capacitors, which I store somewhere and connect them via wires? I was thinking about this ones:
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/panasoni...-5-mm-470-f-6-3-v-20-6-3-mm-1-st-1471110.html
 
I have tried with several inline ceramic smd and works fine too but for those you are pointing out i think they will have an issue with heat and closing up the case.

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hoyohoo said:
Hey guys, first of all, thank you for this awesome TuT and giving me hope. I have a rare PS3 60 GB Version, supporting PS2 Games, but I have some issues finding the right capacitors here in germany. I find some, but they are way too expensive, imho.
So, my question is, can I use electrolytic capacitors, which I store somewhere and connect them via wires? I was thinking about this ones:
https://www.conrad.de/de/p/panasoni...-5-mm-470-f-6-3-v-20-6-3-mm-1-st-1471110.html
Click to expand...
You can find some tantalum capacitors on dead laptop mobo's too if u have ! i managed to remove so many tantalums capacitors on dead laptops mobos with a heat gun and flux so easily and then i used them on many ps3's.
 
Sadly, I do not have a single dead laptop here. Will it cause any problems, if I use electrolytic capacitors? I mean, I will use wire to extend them to a place, where it is colder, so heat should not be a problem.
 
hoyohoo said:
Sadly, I do not have a single dead laptop here. Will it cause any problems, if I use electrolytic capacitors? I mean, I will use wire to extend them to a place, where it is colder, so heat should not be a problem.
Click to expand...
I think u can do it since they work almost the same as the tantalums capacitors the only real problem with them is that there's no room for them in the ps3 but u can do some mods like u said extending them with wires.
 
hoyohoo said:
Sadly, I do not have a single dead laptop here. Will it cause any problems, if I use electrolytic capacitors? I mean, I will use wire to extend them to a place, where it is colder, so heat should not be a problem.
Click to expand...

i dont think anyone will really give u an answer as most thought they wouldn't really work well but there has been a couple people that have had the console work with them. So my advice would be to at least try them if thats all u have BUT in the long term and if u get the console to work, go ahead and buy the tantalum caps, at the end of the day if it works they wont look so expensive in the end will they?
 
Whats better to do after trying with one rsx nec tokin on the the side without cell and rsx.
Do all rsx nec tokin both sides and put thick jumper/link wire or do all the nec tokin on one side such as the side without rsx and cell and leave other side as it is
 
ps3xbox said:
Whats better to do after trying with one rsx nec tokin on the the side without cell and rsx.
Do all rsx nec tokin both sides and put thick jumper/link wire or do all the nec tokin on one side such as the side without rsx and cell and leave other side as it is
Click to expand...
Sorry, my english is not that great, it is only my third language... So I don't fully understand your comment. What is RSX?

@all: Can't I just replace the NEC/Tolkien Caps with again the same kind? I saw some sellers of them on ebay (from china) which cost about 1€ per cap, so 8€ in Total, vs. the ca. 35€ of the 32 x tantalum caps.
 
None of my 2 CECHC are completely stable. The one i replaced two NECs on RSX stil gets a YLOD at the first clicker in TLOU.

The other (replaced two NECs on Cell and three on RSX) gives YLOD at random times in TLOU and even when syncing trophies (which i think points to Cell being the culprit).

i guess they both need to have more NECs replaced.
Do you guys think it would be possible to use 1000uF tantalums instead of 2 470uF ones?
 
Manp said:
None of my 2 CECHC are completely stable. The one i replaced two NECs on RSX stil gets a YLOD at the first clicker in TLOU.

The other (replaced two NECs on Cell and three on RSX) gives YLOD at random times in TLOU and even when syncing trophies (which i think points to Cell being the culprit).

i guess they both need to have more NECs replaced.
Do you guys think it would be possible to use 1000uF tantalums instead of 2 470uF ones?
Click to expand...

The only issue u may find is the size, if u can find ones that fit and u dont change the opposite side then sure, remember only 1 128 NEC tokin = 1200uF.

1 side u have a max height of 2.5mm b4 it will start hitting the metal frame, the opposite side u do have more here (BGA side) u have 4mm to work with
 
Manp said:
None of my 2 CECHC are completely stable. The one i replaced two NECs on RSX stil gets a YLOD at the first clicker in TLOU.

The other (replaced two NECs on Cell and three on RSX) gives YLOD at random times in TLOU and even when syncing trophies (which i think points to Cell being the culprit).

i guess they both need to have more NECs replaced.
Do you guys think it would be possible to use 1000uF tantalums instead of 2 470uF ones?
Click to expand...
I don't understand why the ps3 that u replaced two necs on cell and three on rsx its not working properly. Have u noticed if the poles of the tantalums are well welded and not causing any short?.

Here i leave an image of one of my works with a CECHA01. Notice that i scratched the varnish cover on every nec tokin to have more freedom welding the tantalums. I took that photo before i finished the replacement because i replaced all the necs including the one that appears on the photo and till this day that ps3 is working flawless with no issue and no more funny random shut offs on demanding games.

Note: I used tantalums of 330uf 2.5v (4 per each tokin) i leaved the necs on bottom as they work as a bridge for the tantalums as is stated in the thread.
 

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How many of the tokiens do I need to change? I bought 35 x 470 µF electrolyte caps today XD

And have anyone changed them with other, new NEC 0E128's?
 
hoyohoo said:
How many of the tokiens do I need to change? I bought 35 x 470 µF electrolyte caps today XD

And have anyone changed them with other, new NEC 0E128's?
Click to expand...
I saw a brazilian in a youtube video replacing the necs with another necs but in the near future they will fail again as they are so prone to the fail. So tantalums is the way to go. But in ur case u want to use electrolyte capacitors that's up to you because as i said there's no room for them in the ps3 unless u do some kind of mod with the wires.
 
I already have the electrolyte caps and some 0,25mm² wire (which could be too thin, can someone tell?) and atleast for testing, this should be ok.
But, again, how many of them do I replace? All of them?
Can I use a multimeter to check, which NEC is completely dead?
 
I've been following this thread for several months and whoa. What a roller coaster. But I've found myself with a few questions as I wait for a cecha01 to come in the mail (presuming it's ylod I intend to try this fix, at 36 dollars shipped untested I figure it's worth a shake). The biggest question I have is to confirm the height clearance for the older fats(specifically cecha01), being 2.5mm for the non-bga side and 4.0mm for the bga side.

My understanding on the specs required for the capacitor replacement is they should ideally be 2.5v and that you should use 330 to 470 uf, but also that you could use larger uf values if you can find them in a fitting size. Is this accurate so far, and does the esr of the replacements matter? Thanks in advance and I'm looking forward to seeing you mad lads bringing these old relics back to life.
 
Hello guys, I read almost whole thread. The tutorial is great. I have 3 CECHC04 and I've decided to give it a try one one od them. I bought small 470uF 2.5V tantalums and replaced 4 tokins on top side. (One tokin didn't make a difference). Unfortunatelly I still get the YLOD, maybe capacitors are bad? Do You think is it worth to replace more tokins? Currently I can't tell if YLOD is delayed, it's quite fast. Below pictures of my work. P.S. sorry for my English
IMG_20200113_202006.jpg
IMG_20200113_205856.jpg
 
VinCo said:
Hello guys, I read almost whole thread. The tutorial is great. I have 3 CECHC04 and I've decided to give it a try one one od them. I bought small 470uF 2.5V tantalums and replaced 4 tokins on top side. (One tokin didn't make a difference). Unfortunatelly I still get the YLOD, maybe capacitors are bad? Do You think is it worth to replace more tokins? Currently I can't tell if YLOD is delayed, it's quite fast. Below pictures of my work. P.S. sorry for my English
View attachment 22406 View attachment 22407
Click to expand...
There are situations where the YLOD isn't delayed, the delay i mentioned is to determine if some NECs can still be saved, in some situations the NECs are so beaten that the machine will YLOD straight away.

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