PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

I have some 6.3v 470uf tantalums as well so I might try replacing the NEC/TOKINs on the top side of the board with 3 of those each as well, since there's more clearance.
 
Hi im new here just wanted to say i am experiencing the same issue regarding to gt6 crashing on ps3 cechc03. I did do the delidding of the ihs on both gpu and cpu with new mx-4 paste temps stay below 50c. Strange thing is i can play other games such as ps1 ps2 ps3 without problems with some sort of stuttering. As for naked snake mentioned the fix is that on the back of the board facing down that needs new 470uf 2.5v caps or is that for the ones near the cpu and gpu
 
Edwired said:
Hi im new here just wanted to say i am experiencing the same issue regarding to gt6 crashing on ps3 cechc03. I did do the delidding of the ihs on both gpu and cpu with new mx-4 paste temps stay below 50c. Strange thing is i can play other games such as ps1 ps2 ps3 without problems with some sort of stuttering. As for naked snake mentioned the fix is that on the back of the board facing down that needs new 470uf 2.5v caps or is that for the ones near the cpu and gpu
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Also the ps3 i have the 19 blade fan in it and power supply is aps-227 i have a choice to replace the power supply for the aps-231 or do the caps on the back of the board. what would you recommend?
 
Edwired said:
Hi im new here just wanted to say i am experiencing the same issue regarding to gt6 crashing on ps3 cechc03. I did do the delidding of the ihs on both gpu and cpu with new mx-4 paste temps stay below 50c. Strange thing is i can play other games such as ps1 ps2 ps3 without problems with some sort of stuttering. As for naked snake mentioned the fix is that on the back of the board facing down that needs new 470uf 2.5v caps or is that for the ones near the cpu and gpu
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What I mentioned is that, you can start from the top, and go all the way to the bottom, until you have solved the problem.

Ive only mention on top, due to time constraints of the Guide, but you can work them all, like i did, one by one, and test.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk
 
Cool i try that just need to find someone with a ps3 same model as mine to borrow the power supply to try and rule out my power supply then if that dont solved that then im going to start with the caps starting from right to left to try find the one that causing the problem :)
 
Tupakaveli said:
I have some 6.3v 470uf tantalums as well so I might try replacing the NEC/TOKINs on the top side of the board with 3 of those each as well, since there's more clearance.
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Hi! I did a test the other day adding some parallell caps to the NECs on the top side w/o success. One thing I forgot to check was if my caps where rated 6.3v or only "operational" at 6.3V, if they are the latter it won't work, just a heads up. I'll check the part number when I get home.
 
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well so far im 0-3 of getting a console to boot yet with this method, saying that these are consoles that had an attempted repair in the past but did show same symptoms as this thread so i thought they "might" be ok candidates but i guess not.

I wouldn't mind seeing some more in depth testing done on consoles that do get revived with this method. Things like, do both GPU and CPU get hot b4 the fix by doing the power cycling trick on a powered bare assembled unit? obviously both BGA's need to have their IHS's delid to confirm. All 3 consoles i attempted this on, all CPU's got very hot which generally when re-balling the GPU u had a higher % to get the console to come back to life. Did this confirm the tokin caps were performing fine? cant say i guess but generally these consoles easily got the year warranty on them after a re-ball.

ON these consoles im getting a constant 1.3V supplied to both BGA chips measured at the vias in front of the tokin caps just as they enter the BGA's, b4 and after this fix.

when u delid the NEC tokin caps what does its physical appearance look like? really burnt inside? so far only 1 console showed some heat marks on the 1st layer element but nothing to really go wow over.

Think i might have to sacrifice a good working console to mayb get my answers but if anyone else can do some testing it would benefit this thread greatly. Still got a fair few to go through so who knows lets see haha.
 
I decided to take off all nec tokin to do the full cap god it a tough to take them off without damaging the solder pads
 
Edwired said:
I decided to take off all nec tokin to do the full cap god it a tough to take them off without damaging the solder pads
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If you have a big flat tip I'd advice you to use that in combination with a lot of flux and solder. I haven't done mine yet so I can only talk the talk for now.
 
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Managed to take them all off with a flat surgical knife it has the straight cut blade i just put abit of pressure on the blade and wiggle side to side slowly without cutting the pcb or anything around the nec tokin chips. Just the soldering has the layers of the broken nec tokin left on it had to use plenty of solder tin to wiggle the remaining layers off it and will need to get desoldering braid to clean it up. Question i need answering do i need to bridge all the new caps like in pictures in page one?
 
That strange since i taken the chips off i did check with dmm with the black probe on the ground on the board theres two different v-in the rest connected to ground if the grey coils facing closest to you while testing or maybe just the way i see it lol
 
Edwired said:
That strange since i taken the chips off i did check with dmm with the black probe on the ground on the board theres two different v-in the rest connected to ground if the grey coils facing closest to you while testing or maybe just the way i see it lol
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By two different V-in, do you mean one for the RSX and one for the Cell? If so, then yes that should be correct.
 
Ok cool only thing is how come the 4 single pads closest to the rsx and cpu makes the dmm beep when the outer board ground is touched with the black probe while the red touching all the 4 single pads. Is this normal as i am kinda concerned as looking at the board should have a cut out point between the 2 v-in and 2 v-out on the back and front? Can any one confirm this
 
Edwired said:
Ok cool only thing is how come the 4 single pads closest to the rsx and cpu makes the dmm beep when the outer board ground is touched with the black probe while the red touching all the 4 single pads. Is this normal as i am kinda concerned as looking at the board should have a cut out point between the 2 v-in and 2 v-out on the back and front? Can any one confirm this
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I think now is a good time to share a photo of your work, just so we can compare yours with the first post :encouragement:
 
I realize this might be on the verge of off-topic, but could anyone help me figure if these capacitors are sufficient for replacing the NEC tokins?
Wqsf1OG.jpg

Here is the listing for my purchase too. I can't tell if it's needs 6.3V to operate or if it takes up to 6.3V max to safely operate. The seller wont respond so I'm a bit in the dark.
 
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here the pictures
IMG_20191008_080305.jpg
IMG_20191008_080348.jpg
sorry about the dark room it 8.20am here
i have to clean the soldering job up on these pads as i dont have the desoldering braid with flux as i have them on order
 
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How would I go about finding a repair shop in Germany which can do this for me? All the internet sites I found from repair shops don't even list this as part of their services.
 
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