PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Hmm, couldn't tell you. I can't find anything that tells me exactly what kind of polymer the tokins are, and it looks like every one has a different failure mode. All I can say is that I pulled a dozen from YLOD consoles and they all had 0.0 ESR and read open for normal resistance, exactly as they should. I'll go short one out after breakfast.

edit: immediate YLOD in under a second when totally shorted with a jumper wire, I assume there's no need for a video. I'll be happy to go back to pulling them and showing the meter readings all day to prove that isn't what's happening, though.

That is very interesting, thank you for testing!

I wish I had some way to remove these suckers w/o applying any heat to them.

I have a CECHA YLOD unit arriving in a couple of days, too bad the warranty seals are broken though since I have no clue what has been done to it.

I'll try to piggy-back some caps on the NECs to see if it makes difference first. If it makes it works I unfortunately don't have the tools to remove them intact.

Is there is anything you want me to check, before I laying my greasy hands on it, let me know.
 
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Edwired - you are everything that's wrong with the world.

Jacobsson - as I covered in my previous rants, that is not the failure mode of a polymer capacitor. The self healing properties cause any internal resistive path to be immediately burned off until open. They fail open, not short.

I am mildly curious what happens if I straight up short it just for shits and giggles, and I don't care about this board, so maybe I'll get back to you in a bit. I'm guessing that I hit the button and the lights go out altogether without fanfare until unplugged.

wrx884 - This board has a failing NOR, so I doubt I can get it to a point where it will play games. It would obviously make sense from everything I've laid out if failing TOKINs were responsible for some systems that were having random shutdowns due to instability under load, but the entire theory I'm debunking is about YLOD from the initial boot, and I think that what I posted by itself thoroughly debunks that.

Everyone is claiming it's due to lost capacitance, and I can't think of a greater loss of capacitance than losing the capacitors altogether.

If the goalposts are going to be moved so far at once, I'm happy to buy any meter or test equipment I don't already have to close down whatever avenue an entirely new and different argument is gonna go down, but someone is going to need to articulate exactly what characteristic of the caps is causing problems.
So you go picking on me by saying
Edwired - you are everything that's wrong with the world
i feel insulted so do me a hugh favour dont involve me in your conversation
 
wrx884 - This board has a failing NOR, so I doubt I can get it to a point where it will play games. It would obviously make sense from everything I've laid out if failing TOKINs were responsible for some systems that were having random shutdowns due to instability under load, but the entire theory I'm debunking is about YLOD from the initial boot, and I think that what I posted by itself thoroughly debunks that.

Everyone is claiming it's due to lost capacitance, and I can't think of a greater loss of capacitance than losing the capacitors altogether.

If the goalposts are going to be moved so far at once, I'm happy to buy any meter or test equipment I don't already have to close down whatever avenue an entirely new and different argument is gonna go down, but someone is going to need to articulate exactly what characteristic of the caps is causing problems.

Yeah this is why i mentioned using another similar candidate thats more suitable for the tests.

But this is just it we cant really say its due to capacitance its all guess work so far but based on the consoles posted that have been fixed , were fixed as they displayed shut down during high demanding games only. u and i both know we cant always know the history of the console so trying to debunk this repair from initial boot is going to be hard to prove as well. I think probably the only real way to do it is by getting a known console that does shut down in game, remove caps like u do and test to see whats going on, till then we wont really know.
 
"They wont yet until this fix is confirmed or there is a better way of testing these NEC tokin caps have in fact failed. only sure way of knowing is by removing them properly with out damaging them to know for sure which will be rather costly for a consumer. This method is a stab in the dark to try fix the issue and since we are all damaging them upon removal we dont know exactly which caps were at fault."

I already did that multiple times and was entirely ignored.




Anyway, something about this whole thing hasn't made sense to me from the beginning and I just didn't put my finger on it until I saw the comment from someone about "charging up" the TOKINs, and nobody felt the need / understood how to correct them. Then I looked back at the original post. Dude literally says the TOKINs need to provide current. That's so wrong that while trying to think of how to explain how wrong, I realized that there was a really simple way to prove my point. (Also easily reproducible for anyone that thinks I'm lying.)

They're high speed low ESR decoupling caps that charge and discharge small amounts thousands of times a second. They don't "supply" power at all. They are filters that smooth transient voltage from switching power supplies, and handle small power spikes from other devices on the same power rail. In other words, when things are functioning as designed in a well designed circuit, they are BARELY needed.

You can actually entirely remove some filter caps from circuits, and not notice a difference in standard operating conditions.

So, If I'm right: not only can the TOKINs be WAAAY WAAAAY WAAAAAAAAY out of spec, like literally dead before it makes a difference.... I could probably just rip them off the board and things will be fine. Everyone arguing against me is telling me that if they're like 1% out of spec, the system will start throwing up Christmas trees.

Well, just today, I was tearing down a non-BC system that had a dying flash and was missing the drive. The perfect candidate. No YLOD, no BGA issues, no TOKIN issues.


I make it all the way up to 5 COMPLETELY MISSING TOKIN caps before it has the slightest problem. Still even boots missing 5, but only crashes when it finally tries to display graphics.

That's over 60 times the amount they want you to believe is problematic, and it still doesn't even go YLOD.

You're inadvertently doing "the towel trick" and getting lucky.
You still missing the valid point of putting the system under load that not enough to shut down the system when it running gran turismo 6 which put the cpu and gpu in heavy load causing the shut down with 3 beeps and flashing red light. Do that then and see if that what cause the nec tokin to drop out
 
"They wont yet until this fix is confirmed or there is a better way of testing these NEC tokin caps have in fact failed. only sure way of knowing is by removing them properly with out damaging them to know for sure which will be rather costly for a consumer. This method is a stab in the dark to try fix the issue and since we are all damaging them upon removal we dont know exactly which caps were at fault."

I already did that multiple times and was entirely ignored.




Anyway, something about this whole thing hasn't made sense to me from the beginning and I just didn't put my finger on it until I saw the comment from someone about "charging up" the TOKINs, and nobody felt the need / understood how to correct them. Then I looked back at the original post. Dude literally says the TOKINs need to provide current. That's so wrong that while trying to think of how to explain how wrong, I realized that there was a really simple way to prove my point. (Also easily reproducible for anyone that thinks I'm lying.)

They're high speed low ESR decoupling caps that charge and discharge small amounts thousands of times a second. They don't "supply" power at all. They are filters that smooth transient voltage from switching power supplies, and handle small power spikes from other devices on the same power rail. In other words, when things are functioning as designed in a well designed circuit, they are BARELY needed.

You can actually entirely remove some filter caps from circuits, and not notice a difference in standard operating conditions.

So, If I'm right: not only can the TOKINs be WAAAY WAAAAY WAAAAAAAAY out of spec, like literally dead before it makes a difference.... I could probably just rip them off the board and things will be fine. Everyone arguing against me is telling me that if they're like 1% out of spec, the system will start throwing up Christmas trees.

Well, just today, I was tearing down a non-BC system that had a dying flash and was missing the drive. The perfect candidate. No YLOD, no BGA issues, no TOKIN issues.


I make it all the way up to 5 COMPLETELY MISSING TOKIN caps before it has the slightest problem. Still even boots missing 5, but only crashes when it finally tries to display graphics.

That's over 60 times the amount they want you to believe is problematic, and it still doesn't even go YLOD.

You're inadvertently doing "the towel trick" and getting lucky.
try to play heavy games like the last of us and gran turismo 6 to see if nec is ok, ylod can be bga solder or nec tokin.
i have one ps3 20gb was reballed and when put the gt6 shuts of and WAS REBALLED when i changed all top nec tokin on cell and rsx the game run now without problem explain that because i'm donkey
 
my pics of my 20gb ps3 with tantalum
 

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I like the better attitude you are conveying in this thread now that you have started to involve yourself within our community here @squeept. I see both sides and both arguments. This community is all about sharing and working together to continue to unravel and support our beloved Ps3 consoles for years to come. Instead of attacking each other about which fix is best or right, why can't we all work together to keep breathing life back into the Ps3's that are dying on us. Only through teamwork, sharing, and support, we will be able to research what actually causes the problems in the first place.
 
i have an idea if it possible is to add wires to the v-in and v-out and monitor it with dmm before, during, and after the last of us and gran turismo to see if the voltage drop and do this with the original nec tokin and same for the new caps but i dont have a spare ps3 to test this theory
 
I like the better attitude you are conveying in this thread now that you have started to involve yourself within our community here @squeept. I see both sides and both arguments. This community is all about sharing and working together to continue to unravel and support our beloved Ps3 consoles for years to come. Instead of attacking each other about which fix is best or right, why can't we all work together to keep breathing life back into the Ps3's that are dying on us. Only through teamwork, sharing, and support, we will be able to research what actually causes the problems in the first place.
yeah you right we need to see all points of view to understand better the YLOD for me is nec tokin or solder Balls when i bought this motherboard cook 001 20gb had ylod i sent to an technician where he did reballing. when i got back ps3 i tried gt6 and puff 30 mim get shut off when i decided remove all tokins from top and put some tantalums and when i tried again gt6 run for 5 hours and since then never shuts off since change tokin and already past 3 months so is somthing valid
 
So apparently what was done here was using the "Towel Trick".... yeah right, so using a Soldering Iron does expands heat to other components, are you feeling alright there mate? Isnt that reballing kush interfering with your logical thoughts?

Ever since ive made the replacement in June, ive never encountered any issues, did extensive testing with Gran Turismo 6 and The Last Of Us,neither of them kept the console crawling to his knees, still runs today as we speak, torturing that thing with PlayStation3 and PlayStation2 Software Format on a daily basis.

Its good that you´ve decided to give it a go to test, on what at least looks to my eyes, a VER-001 Motherboard, but i would like to see it with a YLOD, Non-Reballed COK-001 or COK-002 with the extra PlayStation2 Hardware inside, since both NEC lines are shared between the CELL B/E and the EE+GS Chip, so that alone its a bit of extra that the NECs have too output, mine didnt post when i removed one NEC back in July, remember the console booted fine will all NECs attached, but it would shutdown randomly after 5/10 mins of use.

The funny thing is you could put less uF per NEC on more modern boards,starting with the SEM-001 or DIA-001, i´ve saw lads pairing just two 330uF per NEC TOKIN, but still leaving thoes 4 intact, so perhaps 2400uF combined per chip is needed to boot the system,but it wont grant you any form of power stability,when the Chips need a higher output, so by just booting the system you cannot conclude anything there, even my C04 with the original NECs back in June could stay on the recovery for hours on end, there is no workload on both chips.

Ive never said reballing cant be used or its usless, but what people need to understand, unless you have any form of humidity or liquid damage or even physical damage on the BGA Grid, reballing wont solve in the long lasting run, you´ll manage to get the console running again,but how long will it stay that way, are you trying to point that the hair-dryer only worked because it would "liquify" the BGA Grid, the heat output from the Hair-Dryer doesnt even touch it, i only would reball a machine, when ill have 99% certainly, that the BGA Package is indeed defective, everything nowdays uses Lead-Free solder, and i dont see Lead-Free equipment dying left and right.

Do yourself a favour, dont flex with your equipment, not only that is childish, but makes you look bad, everyone here uses the tools at they´re disposal available for comercial use, no need to brag about your expensive equipment, congratulations if you feel the need to have it, so you can flex and charge 400 quid for a console,but for us in general makes no difference, not hating or jelous,just giving you some advice, the purpose of this is to give people a chance to resurrect they´re "dead" PlayStation3s with the tools available and with a desired spending budget, if someone wants to go the reballing round, thats they´re doing, the users money does the talking on what best method they see fit.

If you would like to contribute, everyone would gladly appreciate it, not trying to debunk this so called "myth" with actual working proofs its a bit wasting time, something i value, if this method wouldnt work or it would be a short lasting method, i wouldnt even bother to lose almost 6h of my day to write this thread, to make sure no detail went missing,and the plus weeks on testing on a actual unit,with daily updates.

Good day to everyone
 
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You've gone off the deep end, buddy. I was replying to someone else that left me a numbered list where he was mocking my equipment, workshop, and education.

"So apparently what was done here was using the "Tower Trick".... yeah right, so using a Soldering Iron does expands heat to other components, are you feeling alright there mate? Isnt that reballing kush interfering with your logical thoughts?"

...what?
 
I was checking back in to do some data collection and start a spreadsheet, but some weird comments led me to some experiments that I hope will put this all to rest. This post will be full on drama. I will follow it with a separate post that is solely what I hope will put an end to this, so skip straight to that for results instead of my being defensive.


doubles 1: "I have no vested interest in reballing" reply

I repair electronics for a living, and have been doing it for 15 years. A grand on equipment is not a big deal. My instagram was often an outlet for frustration, so sometimes I used it to rant. I also change my mind when confronted with new information (which is going to be reallllllll important in my next post). That's something I hope everyone here would do. I've recently changed my mind about reflowing consoles that are almost 15 years old because the oxidation has made it a useless endeavor that won't survive the generous warranty periods I provide.

1b) Yeah, I've repaired something like 20 thousand game consoles in my time. A few hundred PS3 systems does not make it my bread and butter. I'm really only trying to nip this rumor in the bud before it becomes extra work that I have to do without being able to charge extra money for it. I don't repair consoles for people, I sell repaired consoles. I do some local contracts, but they are bulk and have a per console charge regardless of what is wrong. Again, I've provided you with my social media and eBay, you can look it up. I don't offer repair services. I sell the finished product, so I don't give a crap how it gets fixed. I just sell it fixed.

2b) Yep. Hundreds of PS3 systems are literally a drop in the bucket. You obviously looked at every single instagram post and current eBay listing but still purposely misconstrued that. I invite anyone else to look. I'm happy to show you a picture of my inbox of consoles right now, there are about 200, and less than 10 are PS3.

2.) First of all, that's just some dude's powerpoint, not an academic paper. Second of all, I think you've entirely misunderstood it. My understanding of reading that same slide is that they're saying you're not allowed to use a BGA package in an automotive application unless it can be shown to have no failures after 3000 heat cycles. Automotive standards are entirely different from the rest of the world. If you ever buy electronic components, look in the options on like Digikey or your favorite. There is a dropdown to pick automotive components. I feel like you're willfully misinterpreting what that sentence says, but I'm open to argument there.

3.) My bad. I am covering a lot of ground, so I've gone a little scatterbrained. There are defects from the factory that lay in wait, there are defects that form. All of them come to fruition through heat cycles - why I keep saying results of one day of playing Forza don't matter. I don't really understand your point of bringing this up, but I've been drinking.

4.) I literally said I have no idea, but you're still making a point to attack this. I don't know what to tell you. I have very, very little data for slims so I'm not going to argue about them. I want hundreds of data points.

5.) k

6.) Rule of 10's is a pretty widely used term in the industry for back of the envelope calculations regarding capacitors, but it can be used for other guesswork. I thought I was clear on that, but again I'm covering a ton of ground here and I'm scatterbrained. There is no real citable science to it, it's just a tool for guesswork.

7.) You were SOOOOO close to understanding how I'm in business after 15 years, while everyone else closes up shop and sells their inventory to me after they go out of business. I love DS Lites. I can sell them for $25 plus shipping all day every day. I get them in bulk 20 at a time for around 5 bucks each, they usually need around 5 bucks in parts, and I pay around 3 bucks in fees to sell them. $12 bucks profit is HORRIBLE, right? BUT! I can have one repaired, cleaned, tested, and listed in about 20 minutes (I'm happy to provide a video speed run, I'll go for the world record). Are you REALLY going to look down on $36 an hour?

I buy anything when the price is right. I'll repair LeapFrogs all day if the money is there. I bought some Super Slims in 2016 (you conveniently left out the date on the picture). Some of my contracts have sent one from time to time, too. You did it, you caught the tater.

8a. but not numbered) You might want to look up what computer engineering is again, because not only have I now been mocked for being the only person to show up to an argument about capacitors with a capacitance/ESR meter, you're now mocking me for having a relevant education. Most of the core curriculum to any CPE degree is literally the design of circuit boards and the components that go on them.

8b. but not numbered) Yeah, it's a home based business. I have made no attempt to hide that, I OFFERED you my instagram. I even bought a bigger house about 5 years ago just so I could have an 800 square foot dedicated space for my workshop with a finished area and my main workbench sitting next to a giant double door full of sunshine and happiness right next to my garden. I don't really see how that's relevant except that you're trying to be petty or jealous about me chilling in a stack of video games at home all day as a job.

8c. but not numbered) I love my ACHI station. I bought it because it was a great value, it was well documented, and it is made almost entirely out of "off the shelf" components, so it is infinitely repairable. You've apparently never dealt with a rework station, but they.... uh.... get really hot. It's kind of in the job description. And as we've been discussing, that leads to failure. Since there's nothing proprietary in it, any failure is easy to diagnose and cheap to repair. I'm super happy with it. And since I didn't waste money on pointless upgrades like spending out the ass to get auto part placement, split vision, touchscreens, and other bells and whistles, I can spend that money on other fun toys. Like my FLIR camera that I used to verify completely even heat (literally the only parameter that matters in a rework station) or getting authentic Omega thermcouples to verify accurate temps.

I spend money where it matters. Again, you clearly looked at every single instagram post I ever made, but while criticizing my equipment you purposely left out explaining where I do spend money. For example, my JBC soldering station that I'm willing to bet each single tip costs more than the average entire soldering station being used in this thread. My work spaces are insured for 100K if you'd like a tour to try to make fun of the rest of my equipment.

8d but not numbered) Geez, you're really reaching here. I built a fume hood, fvck me right? I work with this crap for a living, so every little fume needs vented or I'll be dead before 50. I have sensitive ears, so the Hakko FA-430 unit that everyone uses that runs at 50 decibels was right out. The JBC FAE1 system runs at 55 decibels. Again, not an option. I have at least 2 different ventilation systems running at all times, sometimes 4. I spent $1200 on Panasonic bathroom whisper fans that run at 20 decibels each. Sue me for being practical, mildly autistic, and not caring about how good it looks. I also never have to pay for filters, either.

9 but not numbered) Yes, the TOKIN massacre. As I've done hundreds of PS3 systems, it's bound to actually be an issue once in awhile. Another way to look at it is by actually including the date of the post: a year ago. As in, I've been gathering data on a known issue for over a year and have entirely dismissed it for the time being.

10 but not numbered) I apologize for showing up to the thread already angry, but there were 20 some pages of someone essentially mocking my viewpoint before I even arrived. I'm childish and I make no excuses for it, and it's half the reason I decided to work for myself. If you can't see past that when I'm providing actual evidence, you're being equally childish. You can see my receding hairline on instagram and the date on my degree. Do the math.

11 maybe? Finally, again, I don't actually offer repair services. This is why I'm saying I don't care how these get fixed, just that they get fixed. I only do full service complete refurbishing, then give systems a complete warranty. Buy then sell. Anything else and you have to deal with lying customers and being blamed for unrelated issues, so I just avoid it entirely. Anyone here that has fixed a computer for someone has heard a sentence that starts with "ever since you fixed...." and I want no part of that garbage.

For an idea of what I charge/make on a backwards compatible PS3: I buy them with warranty seals for 60 or 70, without for 30 or 40. I sell them for around 400. About a third of them are dead beyond repair, with an average of 2 hours of work before discovering that. It takes me a week of on/off work to finish them fully stress tested. It takes about 8 hours of hands on work to restore them to my standards. You checked my listings, you see that I even take the fans apart and regrease the bearings. I am thorough. I do 10 heat cycles, at least 1 overnight. I give a 6 month warranty, and I am VERY generous when they are out of warranty. Since you already stalked my eBay listings, you can see I sold 2 CECHA01 in the last 10 days.

Congratulations to anyone that finished.
My point with the repaired PS3's (Fat slim w/e) isn't that its your main source of income but it is certainly income for you making it a vested interest. You do purchase broken consoles, repair them, and flip them making them part of your business small or otherwise. It doesn't make your points invalid due to bias, but I still wouldn't call you an objective observer.

I don't think you should worry about people trying this given that you only buy consoles with the warranty seal anyway, god knows people are still out there with hairdryers and heatguns because they saw it on youtube.

Calling it "some dude's powerpoint" isn't true at all, while it isn't an academic paper it is a presentation from a massive Swedish research group that "specialising in applied scientific research in materials development, production and product development. " My point with it wasn't to rebuke the idea of BGA failures it was to point out that the frequency of the failures have a fairly expansive gap from the low range (of heat cycles) that you showed to the high range like the one in the presentation.

That point was just to point out that the paper about HiP defects wasn't really related to regular stress related BGA defects. They're caused by thermal cycles but they're factory defects not really stress defects.

I'm making a point of highlighting it because you don't really have an explanation for it other than TDP dropping. I don't expect you to have an explanation for it, it just seems like a cop out.

The DS lites were just an example of things not adding up to your other reply about not dealing with slims because there wasn't enough profit in them to even bother. I'm not looking down on it, it just doesn't seem believable when placed beside the slims.

I didn't mock you, questioning whether or not YOU are an authority in the field isn't what I would consider "mocking". It's perfectly reasonable to question if it was your field of study given that when you were completing your degree mass market, high power computers using BGAs weren't extremely common. I'm not even doubting that you had significant education relating to PCB designs, but education is only as recent as the technology in the field.

I didn't say you had tried to hide it, what I'm trying to say about the home based business, and the ACHI station, and the fume hood is that to some degree you're a layman as are we. You don't have clean room where you dissect every console an inspect it with kiddy gloves. You do have much more equipment that any of us but a lot of it is still low end or even homemade. I don't think you can deny that proper studies are done in a lab, not a garage/office. I can also appreciate the dedication to silence given how grating it becomes over a long period of time, which isn't ideal for delicate work like soldering.

Pricetag =/= quality
most macs would last forever if that were the case :highly amused:

It's been made fairly clear that the caps(like any capacitor) can only be measured if they're taken off the mobo. As far as I've seen from any forum post, youtube video (here or otherwise) no one has found a way to do that with literally 0 damage. I totally believe your readings are real I just want to see an uncut video of you taking them off a motherboard without damage and measuring them.

Don't think of it as mocking your viewpoint, how would people know anyway? The only other person seemingly brought up in the thread was that ps3specialist scammer. I can see past it which is why I actually took the time to reply and ask questions rather than just calling you names, if you want anyone to take your reply seriously and turn away from their gospel honey works better than vinegar.

Aight that's reasonable, gotta keep looking then.

I don't think many people here have an understanding of a capacitor more than just "it charges up then zaps" the tokins were unique in their intended purpose/design so I don't think it's entirely up to ignorance. As far as I can tell from their datasheet they were this miracle product designed to replace an entire decoupling circuit with 1 component.

My post way back when about them falling out of spec wasn't meant to be held at an exact value it was more of a suggestion based on the numbers from the data sheet. "here's what it showed the deg-rate was in the data sheet, I wonder after X hours it may have fallen out of spec"

The tests with the caps completely gone are pretty eye opening, thanks for those.
 
You've gone off the deep end, buddy. I was replying to someone else that left me a numbered list where he was mocking my equipment, workshop, and education.

"So apparently what was done here was using the "Tower Trick".... yeah right, so using a Soldering Iron does expands heat to other components, are you feeling alright there mate? Isnt that reballing kush interfering with your logical thoughts?"

...what?
That "What?" line is what i though of your "Towel Trick" comparasion, how on this earth, working with the soldering iron has anything related to the BGA Grid itself, are you going to say now that the heat produced by the Iron makes the BGA Grid go soft? Hmmmmmm...never heard of that anywhere lad.

Like i stated and ill state it again, my Phatty is still working as we speak, the day it fails completely even with all the NECs replaced, ill gladly send it to a reball, if that works, ill gladly say that Reballing works,but until then ill keep torturing this beauty, because almost 5 months has gone by and i dont see any signs of this console to die, and this its a almost a 14 year old OEM BGA Grid we are talking about, and i dont consider myself lucky, after all the other 6.

I wont involve myself in any form of drama, i am open-minded as long as people prove me right, with the right evidence.
 
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I'd like to mention that I did come across a system which I used this fix on to no avail. It went from the YLOD to GLOD (no display on both HDMI and AV even on safe mode, but turns on). I wasn't gonna bother with that system anymore so I desoldered the new caps to use another YLOD console instead. After reassembling the GLOD console with now 4 missing NEC's, I tested it to see if would get the YLOD again and it did not, it still had the GLOD. I tested it again a couple days later and it went back to having the YLOD. I opened it up to remove the disk drive and power supply, then literally slapped the console with the intent to kill... And it got a green light again! In this case, I do believe it's safe to say a solder joint isnt making a proper connection... why else would slapping it work lol

Anyways i'm still not convinced I got lucky with the systems I did revive using the capacitor fix, as i've done 6 of them and none have failed again since the fix was completed. Also if the capacitors were not a point of failure then why are some consoles able to play intensive games properly again after the cap fix where as they couldn't before? I can't see how this fix is pure luck when so many consoles have a high rate of benefiting from it. The first console I tried this fix on was about 4 months ago and it still works. I know people who had their PS3 reballed that couldnt even get it to last as long. Again, not saying the cap fix is an absolute cure to the YLOD, but it definitely cant be tossed aside as "luck"
 
Im going to find a couple of ps3 a mix of different models mainly the phat model and do the swaps on nec tokins and new caps and i will post them up just to try and prove that the method work

Period
 
I'd like to mention that I did come across a system which I used this fix on to no avail. It went from the YLOD to GLOD (no display on both HDMI and AV even on safe mode, but turns on). I wasn't gonna bother with that system anymore so I desoldered the new caps to use another YLOD console instead. After reassembling the GLOD console with now 4 missing NEC's, I tested it to see if would get the YLOD again and it did not, it still had the GLOD. I tested it again a couple days later and it went back to having the YLOD. I opened it up to remove the disk drive and power supply, then literally slapped the console with the intent to kill... And it got a green light again! In this case, I do believe it's safe to say a solder joint isnt making a proper connection... why else would slapping it work lol

Anyways i'm still not convinced I got lucky with the systems I did revive using the capacitor fix, as i've done 6 of them and none have failed again since the fix was completed. Also if the capacitors were not a point of failure then why are some consoles able to play intensive games properly again after the cap fix where as they couldn't before? I can't see how this fix is pure luck when so many consoles have a high rate of benefiting from it. The first console I tried this fix on was about 4 months ago and it still works. I know people who had their PS3 reballed that couldnt even get it to last as long. Again, not saying the cap fix is an absolute cure to the YLOD, but it definitely cant be tossed aside as "luck"
There are some cases when the BGA its either oxidized or has suffered physical damage, when a reballing is the only solution its indeed a reballing, but what happens here is people tend to jump to the reballing bandwagon before doing any close inspection, if you get any form of GLOD its mostly due to a GPU Failure, heating it to 150ºCs would restore the Micro-Solders on the Substrate,but eventualy it would fail again, pretty much like Reflow did.

Reballing has its legitimate use,and when its needed,like replacing a chip or even repair PlayStation4s with BLOD or XBOX One´s with a No-Power APU, or even for the PS3 Slims Blackout,but for YLOD its a 50/50% Chance thats either a Reball or a NEC Replacement.
 
my ressurected ps3 by transplanted parts from older systems ps3 60gb, this 20gb motherboard i got from ebay from russia running tomorrow or when i have some time I make another video with gran turismo 6
small video
 
Like I mentioned earlier, don't think of the YLOD as an indication of the capacitors failing or the BGA having cracks. All a YLOD tells you is that the system encountered some sort of error when trying to boot up. I had a CECHB with a GLOD that later turned into a YLOD after I heard a small electrical pop. I tore it down again and there was a fuse that blew apparently for some USB circuit.
 
my ressurected ps3 by transplanted parts from older systems ps3 60gb, this 20gb motherboard i got from ebay from russia running tomorrow or when i have some time I make another video with gran turismo 6
small video
I hear THE GETAWAY in the background, i bloody love that game, played it a lot on the PlayStation2 back in 2002, still do today, nostalgia hits you hard.
 
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