Sampsonay
Member
They would YLOD upon boot.@Sampsonay I have to ask, did any of these fixed systems have YLOD during boot or where they only YLOD on load? Good job fixing them though!
They would YLOD upon boot.@Sampsonay I have to ask, did any of these fixed systems have YLOD during boot or where they only YLOD on load? Good job fixing them though!
yeah is THE GETWAY 1 from ps2 my brother was playing i play with fan above of power supply because its get hot from these systems we need to accelerate the ps3 fan because they run very hot to XDI hear THE GETAWAY in the background, i bloody love that game, played it a lot on the PlayStation2 back in 2002, still do today, nostalgia hits you hard.
Are you running the original ZSSR5391A or the APS-227?yeah is THE GETWAY 1 from ps2 my brother was playing i play with fan above of power supply because its get hot from these systems we need to accelerate the ps3 fan because they run very hot to XD
is aps 227 but in europe power is 240v so can make aps 231 work hard and in the past i tried to put APS 231 in 60gb european and power supply burnt LOLAre you running the original ZSSR5391A or the APS-227?
I mean the APS-227 doesn't even gets hot as the ZSSR5391A, which was indeed a furnace inside, the APS-227 gets warm, but not to a ZSSR5391A Level, so i don't see the hassle to worry about it, of course you can always go with the 287W APS-231 from the G Model, although reports suggest that stability is not guaranteed in the COK-001 Board due to the extra PlayStation2 Hardware, although i can confirm it works without any stability breakups on a COK-002 Mainboard.
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Really, perhaps the Power Supply was faulty, i never encountered any issues with my previous C04 with an APS-231.is aps 227 but in europe power is 240v so can make aps 231 work hard and in the past i tried to put APS 231 in 60gb european and power supply burnt LOL
Is the tantalum on the rsx side and did you replace both nec tokin on that side?my pics of my 20gb ps3 with tantalum
yes in cell and rsx top only, if you remove on bottom you need make jumpersIs the tantalum on the rsx side and did you replace both nec tokin on that side?
jeez been quiet here lately
Do you have a link to those caps? Cant seem to find the correct ones!Helloooooooo caps.
View attachment 19420
Now I have to find a soldering iron as mine decided to suddenly stop working -_-
Can you elaborate on jumpers? Any pictures of how they can be wired?yes in cell and rsx top only, if you remove on bottom you need make jumpers
Novice's always do this kind of mistake, Austin himself claimed that perhaps he'll make a follow-up video on that PlayStation3, stating by cleaning it to get rid of the "overheating", but i am 99% that my money is on not going to make a difference.If that was overheating it would report differently on screen lol
Novice's always do this kind of mistake, Austin himself claimed that perhaps he'll make a follow-up video on that PlayStation3, stating by cleaning it to get rid of the "overheating", but i am 99% that my money is on not going to make a difference.
But what i wanted to demonstrate, is how this is the easiest way to tell if the Caps are on they're last leg, the console turned on, no problems there, but at the short session of Ratchet and Clank - Crack In Time, it turned off due to an RSX underfeed, the more strain goes to the RSX the higher the uF Output the Caps have to provide, and if the RSX can't get that feed, this happens.
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I know that but if you stop the fan and let it overheat it shows that other message as for sure it not overheating i know the differences if the fan is noisy it trying hard enough to cool down the console i can hear it with a hearing aid in my right ear lolSo really this might just be a small portion to this fix being that this eg is only good for this fix by the looks of it if we get a chance to actually see it happen. If the console is already in YLOD state which most are that are bought broken 2nd hand or when its too late to actually do something about it, then this doesn't really help yet. Its still just another stab in the dark with those to guess its this problem or not. would be good to see if he actually does a follow up to confirm too if we dont then we cant really count it as the NEC Tokin fix yet.
@Edwired u dont always get a message when the console over heats or has been running hot, if its been running hot in the past u wont know if its caused any other damage and the console wont tell u that either until its too late. Its only with the CFW that we are able to see what the consoles are doing but if its on OFW u obviously wont see this, especially if its already in YLOD state.
Nice videoThis thread has been a really interesting read. I started working on a script for a video I just released on YouTube ("The Misdiagnosis of the PlayStation 3 Yellow Light of Death"), and this thread was definitely something I checked out when I was checking engineering resources and tracing early diagnosis during the scripting stage of the video a month or so ago. I have returned to find that it has reached 25 pages! That is pretty impressive.
I haven't elected to do any work on my CECHA model just yet, but I am happy to see that more people are leaning toward diagnosing their consoles. I hope to restore mine to its former glory once I find the time (and clean off my workbench!)
I will link to the video in this post in case you guys are interested (It does get a bit technical). Hopefully more people will question their attack of the YLOD, and maybe some will find a solution in replacing their NEC/TOKIN caps - something I did end up mentioning in the video.
Really happy to see the back and forth and sharing of information here - even when it gets heated at times - and hope that many a non-functioning PS3 will return a green light once again.
Best of luck to all that are attempting PS3 repairs!
