PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[LSL]

@LSL I found mostly shorts on the mobo when having an instant YLOD, and sometimes it's common when a NEC is faulty and is not definitely shorting the mobo (when you need to turn on many times the console in order to make it boot). When a RSX is damaged, capacitors on it will be in short, producing an instant YLOD. That's why it's better to check that first when tantalums are already installed correctly.

When you already double check that, you're at the beginning of the maze. And btw, try at least 3 tantalums per NEC, 24 in total if you remove all NECs. The recommended are 4 per NEC.

I use 4 tantalums(330uf 2.5v) per NEC. I test most of voltages(especially if there is voltage on NEC (RSX and CELL)) before change NEC by tantalum.

 

[LSL]

That means delid.

P/S: ASAP.

To the CECHA01??

I guess that CECHB01 will need more tantalums, only.

 

[ElGris]

Those caps are in paralel, how do you know which is in bad condition if you don't remove it? Keep in mind that you only need one damaged to get an instant YLOD.

Temperatures above 70ºC on idle will require a delid. That CECHB may need a few tantalum, but running at that temperature is not safe for the CELL.

 

[LSL]

Those caps are in paralel, how do you know which is in bad condition if you don't remove it? Keep in mind that you only need one damaged to get an instant YLOD.

Temperatures above 70ºC on idle will require a delid. That CECHB may need a few tantalum, but running at that temperature is not safe for the CELL.

Yes, I know. → (caps in paralel....only need one damaged to get an instant YLOD)

even though fan is in stage 1? → (70ºC on idle will require a delid). This CECHB will be cleaned and will be aplied new thermal compound in May/2020, when I will have a vacation.

Both PS3 (CECHA01 and CECHB01) I got Ylod at the beginning of The Last of US.

Both got Ylod when change spin stage.

 

[ElGris]

Well temperatures depend of how warm your place is, but the recommended for a fattie is 60-65ºC on CELL (idle). I understand that you didn't touch the fan speed but you shouldn't need to put it above 35% if the temperatures are good, and if you need to put it at 40% or more to achieve those good temps then the delid it will be a need in a few months of usage. Every fattie needs a delid in some moment of its life (if is still running). RSX is a bit cooler because is under the BD drive.

"Both got Ylod when change spin stage."

Add tantalums until you are able to play the game for a few hours. That's my final test lol.

 

[LSL]

Well temperatures depend of how warm your place is...

Usually +30° C where I live

 

[pinky]

I know 60 degrees C is 140 degrees F, so I guess 30 degrees C is 70 degrees F or around room temperature.

 

[LSL]

I know 60 degrees C is 140 degrees F, so I guess 30 degrees C is 70 degrees F or around room temperature.

Multiman displays temperature in °C or °F??

 

[pinky]

either, but I don't remember if you have to choose one. it's been like two or three years since I opened mm.

 

[blckbear_]

I know 60 degrees C is 140 degrees F, so I guess 30 degrees C is 70 degrees F or around room temperature.

30°C is 86°F if I'm not mistaken, we don't use Fahrenheit here so I don't know if the difference between 70 and 86 is big or not

 

[128x.k]

@ElGris I used 3 per nec, 2.5v 470uf panasonic capacitors. I got 500+uf on everyone i tested with multimeter.

So far ive tested
1. 2 bridges per processor (just top)
2. 1 bridge per processor (just top)
3. 1 bridge per processor (top and bottom)

Ok I am going to try n add 4 per nec and bridge both the top and the bottom with one wire per processor i also have no pressure from the shield.

I also ordered 10 Original Nec capacitors to test and see if there is still YLOD if my re re do doesnt work

I have a question tho is there a picture of a completely replaced board that worked after replacement?

Would love to see it to try and copy. I tried to find in the thread but all i saw was someone replaced all of them and then it stopped working he regretted not leaving the necs as it was working perfectly before he tried to replace all.

I saw your capacitor replacement job I think aswell @ElGris but i think you only had the top side replaced and you used 2 bridges per section correct?

and @LSL how do i check voltage into the chips? would love to see if thats a problem.

Just to put out again
1. 3 second ylod
2. replaced caps on top
instant ylod (must have done wrong as my first time)
3. replaced all caps now
1-2 second YLod (light turns green, fan ramps up, then 3 beeps amber light continuously blinks red) Let me know if anyone has any advice! here is my 2nd most recent job

 

[KillTylerDurden]

I have a COK-001 YLOD, a multimeter and the level 3 service manual.

Where is a good place to start poking to determine bad NECs, bad RSX or something else?

 

[demetris]

@128x.k your top ones are correct but the bottom ones need to be on the other side so move to opposite side and try again.

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[128x.k]

@128x.k your top ones are correct but the bottom ones need to be on the other side so move to opposite side and try again.

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Ok great! so just so were clear the top side has the wires those are good ya? Its the ones next to the IHS' that need to be switched to other side yes?

 

[demetris]

In this photo move all of them to the other side

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[KillTylerDurden]

Does this look like it would cause a YLOD?

 

[sandungas]

Ok great! so just so were clear the top side has the wires those are good ya? Its the ones next to the IHS' that need to be switched to other side yes?

Think that the "+" sing of the tantalum caps should be aiming in the direction of the processors

But thats not a requirement really... in the way you did it is electrically the same

 

[sandungas]

Does this look like it would cause a YLOD?

I dont think, that susbstance is like flux/varnish of the motherboard, so is not electrical conductive, when it get hots it starts flooding and cummulates in the points with lower height (something like an stalactite)

 

[demetris]

Think that the "+" sing of the tantalum caps should be aiming in the direction of the processors

But thats not a requirement really... in the way you did it is electrically the same

Yes it's not but i have some flanky motherboards that need this to work.
And what i mean is in parallel up and down and + facing the cpu/gpu.
I guess it needs the line clean as a baby ass to work(old age?)

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[KillTylerDurden]

I dont think, that susbstance is like flux/varnish of the motherboard, so is not electrical conductive, when it get hots it starts flooding and cummulates in the points with lower height (something like an stalactite)

ah okay, thank you for the insight. The diode itself (D3315) looked pretty scorched.

Moving forward, is there anything I should check (fuses?) prior to replacing the NECs?

Can anybody recommend a good US seller for the capacitors?

Edit: It is possible to test for dead RSX without removing it from the board?