PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

I thought it could be between 2.5v to 6.3v, guess this shows i know nothing about this stuff lol. wish me luck i'm going to order some of these!
Yes you are right, 2.5v or 6.3v will work fine higher voltage will not matter . They will only use the voltage supplied by the ps3. Anything lower voltage will get hot and burn up :grenade:p.s. good luck!
 
Yes you are right, 2.5v or 6.3v will work fine higher voltage will not matter . They will only use the voltage supplied by the ps3. Anything lower voltage will get hot and burn up :grenade:p.s. good luck!


I'm gonna need it, lol thanks.

EDIT

Chang of plans! I cant order the other one i posted above, so i will get this one instead. the UF is fine ( i think) but the voltage is 4.0 however as per your earlier post, since it is within 2.5 and 6.3 should be fine, yes? :)
 
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I'm gonna need it, lol thanks.

EDIT

Chang of plans! I cant order the other one i posted above, so i will get this one instead. the UF is fine ( i think) but the voltage is 4.0 however as per your earlier post, since it is within 2.5 and 6.3 should be fine, yes? :)
Yes you should be fine, don't go below 2.5v that's all .:-p
 
Please read the beginning of this tutorial your question is answered for were to put jumper wire. You have no pictures for anyone to look at to help you. The wire can burn up if it is not thick enough 14 gauge copper solid wire is what I used on all my repairs. Anything smaller gets hot or burns up.:grenade:
The wire did not smoke thought but a capacitor did and then i got a 12v short and then a 4 second ylod or it might be a instant ylod
 
Hey guys. Here's another good news i want to share with you all.

I noticed after i changed the Tokin Capacitor with the tantalums, my CECHA00 fan spins so much much much much QUIET than before!

I did changed the thermal paste before (before i change the tantalums and in YLOD Conditions) and turns out my PS3 temperature still high even in XMB. The fan will runs at 55-60% speed in normal condition. And now after i changed the capacitor the fans just stick at 35% speed even during in high graphic demanding games like Gran Turismo 6!

So i can conclude here after we change to a new capacitor to replace NEC Tokin, the RSX and CELL will receive a sufficient current and voltage which will automatically improve the reliability of our PS3. Thus it doesn't need to 'work' too hard which will produce much overheat and also will increase the fan sound too loud that everyone does't like. I'm so happy with my Backward Compatible right now! :biggrin:

Here is my last post and installation of tantalums :
Tutorial - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD FIX

You guys can see how many hours i pushed my PHAT PS3 to play GT6 (Phat PS3 user always have problem with this game) without ANY shutdown issue!

Gq2lf96.jpg

CzwwLn1.jpg


Thanks a lot to :
Naked_Snake1995 and everyone in this forums that give support!
 
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Hello everyone, friends! I came across a good challenge to read the entire 93-page topic in a couple of days. Finally, after reading, I may be able to uncover the mystery of the malfunction of PlayStation 3. You guys are all right at the same time, and no, including @skueept. These capacitors nec/tokins are prone to have a floating malfunction. They do not spoil the capacity or ESR so that it interferes with the game console, but the problem is definitely in them in most cases. How can this be you ask? indeed, given the conflicting data here, the conclusion is only that. I have been repairing various electronics for many years, but I come across these game consoles for the first time, I decided to buy a couple of broken ps3 (cechh08,dia-001) for recovery. In my practice, I met some types of components with floating faults, which restored it to one degree or another, if they were warmed, if they were pressed with a thin solid object in different places. Basically, these are capacitors of various types, coils, sometimes pwm controllers. capacitors tokens are rather complicated inside, I suppose over time from temperature stress, they have some kind of transitional connections inside them, so even a faulty capacitor is difficult to see on the oscilloscope, it can change its state from soldering, and save it for some time or condition, you can click on it, bend it slightly, and it will start to freak out. I suggest a reputable @squeept to test this theory on his oscilloscope. Try to knock, crush in different places on these capacitors during operation, with your finger, pencil, with enthusiasm, in general. in this case, take the data with an oscilloscope at this moment, and I think you will understand why you cannot find a malfunction in these tokens, because inside they can lose contact from these influences, and this will affect the result of the output signal in dynamics. Probably this applies to those capacitors that have worked for a long time at elevated temperatures. And this is a rather unpleasant, difficult to diagnose, and contradictory, at first glance, situation. I also want to add that those who replaced the tokens with tantalum capacitors, and the game console didn't work for them, it's all about the quality of your soldering. (If the reason is not in BGA, and not in other lower tokens (around rsx and cell). The GPU requires a very large current, at the peaks it can easily be 10-12A. A very high-quality, thick soldered connection of both capacitors and the bridge, you need a lot of flux, and very good warming up, I recommend not using wires, but a nickel tape, or copper foil, and making an array between the wire and the wire. Better on each side of the board(2 rsx and 2 cell). Bad soldered joints increase the resistance, thus it is impossible to give enough food on GPU. High-quality soldering is very important in solving this problem. Regarding reballing, I'll tell you my opinion - it is extremely rare, and this applies to any technique from the BGA. Except for cases of liquid flooding, donation, shock, it is extremely rare, and in 90 % of cases is determined by the pressure of the board in different parts of the chip.Yes, tin solder is fragile, but factory problems rarely occur, usually when a little flux was applied to one of the balls at the factory. However, 10+ years is already a period, I met several laptops where this problem mainly affected processor sockets. On younger devices, there is almost no such problem if the cause is not factory. So, what I want to say, I have absolutely working ps3. I decided to do on it reballing rsx. I have all the necessary equipment for this infrared bottom and top. Just. on the work console. And you know what? after reballing it does not work. moment YLOD. my mistake is excluded, I changed a large number of chips at my station, which I did on my own, even successfully changed many processor sockets. I have no reason to believe that it could be anything other than tokens. Even if we assume that they do not spoil the contact with the capacitor plates, but the internal resistance of the bridge changes. This prevents the console from starting normally. I don't have as many tantalums as needed on donors, so I'm waiting for them to arrive. I will change them, and I'm sure it will 100% solve the situation. I recommend changing all tokens at once, and making large v-in and v-out bridges, 2 pieces on rsx and 2pcs on cell, better from nickel plates. you can buy on Aliexpress this nickel tape. these are used on 18650 batteries when they are connected. On the second prefix with YLOD, I did a reballing cell and rsx. manually put each ball, stencils have not arrived yet. did not help, instant YLOD on both consoles. There is no other reason to believe that these are not tokens. as soon as tantalums come to me, I will write you about the result. Thanks for attention, sorry for my english, guys)
 
My journey with this repair continues... I jacked up my cecha01 board by dropping an exacto knife on it after cutting myself... FAIL. I bought another YLOD ps3 off ebay and it arrived yesterday. Tore it down and replaced one NEC on the RSX. The system no longer has ylod!

BUT it does have GLOD... no video out, controller does not sync, removed hard drive still the same issue and wont go into safe mode.... Would replacing the other NEC fix this issue? IS there another fix for this or is this PS3 toast as well.
 
My journey with this repair continues... I jacked up my cecha01 board by dropping an exacto knife on it after cutting myself... FAIL. I bought another YLOD ps3 off ebay and it arrived yesterday. Tore it down and replaced one NEC on the RSX. The system no longer has ylod!

BUT it does have GLOD... no video out, controller does not sync, removed hard drive still the same issue and wont go into safe mode.... Would replacing the other NEC fix this issue? IS there another fix for this or is this PS3 toast as well.
This could be that the rsx/gpu solder joints have come loose. Sometimes the hard drive but as you stated you tried without it. The nec/ tokins may help but I cannot guarantee that will work but worth a try to replace them at this point. If solder joints are loose reball is needed or rsx/gpu replacement. You could try the penny trick under the rsx/gpu clamp. To see if solder joints may reconnect and you may get display.:fat:
 
So I spent this morning redoing all the nec on the RSX... same result. Penny trick didnt do anything for me. I didnt do a proper reflow but... Its not worth it for me to reball, since the unit was so cheap. Kinda bummed it didnt work....BUT I do have another in the mail that does not have YLOD. Hopefully I have better luck with that unit. Still taking suggestion for glod... idk what else there would be though. Ill probably try the reflow as a last ditch effort.. board is dead anyway
 
Look i will give you a solution that has worked for the majority of Glods that came to my attention but i cannot promise this will work for you 100%.
Put plenty of flux around the RSX , make sure all the gpu pins have flux touching them. i wear a rubber glove and i go around the chip with my index finger. Put enough so all the round from rsx to motherboard is well staffed with flux.
When you feel confident about the flux, take the thinnest solder you have and put it around the RSX chip and make sure it firmly touches all the surrounding edged solder balls with it.
Now you have a big square of unheated and unmelted solder all around the rsx chip.
Now cut a small piece of that solder place it in a place "alone" and make use of the maths you learned in school.
Measure and make sure to use the exact heat(C/F) it needs to meld not more as we dont need to meld the solder balls of the rsx chip only the leaded solder we placed there.
And also measure the time it needs to meld, i use my phone timer for these.
Make sure you tested twice or more to get the exact Celsius/Fahrenheit and seconds you need to hold the heat on it.
Now you are ready.
Go around the rsx chip slowly but steady so you see with your eyes the solder you place there to meld and join with the solder balls of the chip.
Pay attention to the side the cpu chip as is going to be a little tougher to do properly that side of the rsx chip so adjust your heatgun flow angle so you make it efficiently.
Let it cool down and inspect it well with your eyes or a magnifying glass make sure solder balls are separate and not joined together.
If you see joins you need to use the heatgun carefully at that spot to separate the join with heat.
Note: You need to use "no clean flux" for apparent reasons
Thats it actually. Assemble and try.
Good luck.
P.s.
If it works is time to delid the rsx and replace the thermal paste under and over the IHS because we dont want the gpu to overheat as it will meld our newly added solder. If you keep it inside safe temps the glod wont come back.
 
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Look i will give you a solution that has worked for the majority of Glods that came to my attention but i cannot promise this will work for you 100%.
Put plenty of flux around the RSX , make sure all the gpu pins have flux touching them. i wear a rubber glove and i go around the chip with my index finger. Put enough so all the round from rsx to motherboard is well staffed with flux.
When you feel confident about the flux, take the thinnest solder you have and put it around the RSX chip and make sure it firmly touches all the surrounding edged solder balls with it.
Now you have a big square of unheated and unmelted solder all around the rsx chip.
Now cut a small piece of that solder place it in a place "alone" and make use of the maths you learned in school.
Measure and make sure to use the exact heat(C/F) it needs to meld not more as we dont need to meld the solder balls of the rsx chip only the leaded solder we placed there.
And also measure the time it needs to meld, i use my phone timer for these.
Make sure you tested twice or more to get the exact Celsius/Fahrenheit and seconds you need to hold the heat on it.
Now you are ready.
Go around the rsx chip slowly but steady so you see with your eyes the solder you place there to meld and join with the solder balls of the chip.
Pay attention to the side the cpu chip as is going to be a little tougher to do properly that side of the rsx chip so adjust your heatgun flow angle so you make it efficiently.
Let it cool down and inspect it well with your eyes or a magnifying glass make sure solder balls are separate and not joined together.
If you see joins you need to use the heatgun carefully at that spot to separate the join with heat.
Note: You need to use "no clean flux" for apparent reasons
Thats it actually. Assemble and try.
Good luck.

rofl, what you can't do for reballing without special equipment. this is a very funny friend
 
I don't have a reballing equipment so this works for me. Also is as safe as can be as you dont mess with current solderballs or high temps that can destroy the installed equipment

Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
 
I don't have a reballing equipment so this works for me. Also is as safe as can be as you dont mess with current solderballs or high temps that can destroy the installed equipment

Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk

so what's the point in such a procedure? flux plus efd-412a or nc-559 or kingbo rma-218. halogen spotlight, heat gun on top. This leads to deformations of the board and creates increased temperature stress on the chip, there is a risk of disabling it. This is the minimum necessary to restore factory balls if you do not have soldering equipment. they should not target bga banned, they boil heavily and pull balls with their seats. How do you want to rectify the situation?
 
Heat gun never on top but around the rsx chip pointing the solder you need to meld.
Look this is my method and it works. I would recommend to anyone that disbelieves this to try it first and then judge.
When you have a ps3 that nothing you have done has fixed it, this method is something you can try and see.
I have fixed 7-8 thus far and they still work fine so i leave it out there for anyone that is interested.
Try it or don't, certainly i will keep using it if i get the chance.
 
@POLMAN YLOD is not only related to rework or NEC replament needed because they're "not enough" to make the console boot. Many times you only need one NEC in short (MLC capacitors as well) to get an instant YLOD. That's a short. Many times you can have a RSX in short, and you'll only realize of this by delidding it and test the capacitors on it. If the YLOD is delayed, then is definitely a NEC replacement, at least, on the RSX.

@Epixjava Which model you have? if it is a fat, make pressure over the CELL's clamp with your finger and turn on the console. Pretty sure you lost contact with the CELL's bga, that's why the GLOD.
 
Heat gun never on top but around the rsx chip pointing the solder you need to meld.
Look this is my method and it works. I would recommend to anyone that disbelieves this to try it first and then judge.
When you have a ps3 that nothing you have done has fixed it, this method is something you can try and see.
I have fixed 7-8 thus far and they still work fine so i leave it out there for anyone that is interested.
Try it or don't, certainly i will keep using it if i get the chance.

ok, maybe I misunderstood, I'm not a native speaker, is there a video procedure?

@POLMAN YLOD is not only related to rework or NEC replament needed because they're "not enough" to make the console boot. Many times you only need one NEC in short (MLC capacitors as well) to get an instant YLOD. That's a short. Many times you can have a RSX in short, and you'll only realize of this by delidding it and test the capacitors on it. If the YLOD is delayed, then is definitely a NEC replacement, at least, on the RSX.

@Epixjava Which model you have? if it is a fat, make pressure over the CELL's clamp with your finger and turn on the console. Pretty sure you lost contact with the CELL's bga, that's why the GLOD.

yes I know. what is this for? I wrote above exactly what the problem is with these capacitors
 
Look i will give you a solution that has worked for the majority of Glods that came to my attention but i cannot promise this will work for you 100%.
Put plenty of flux around the RSX , make sure all the gpu pins have flux touching them. i wear a rubber glove and i go around the chip with my index finger. Put enough so all the round from rsx to motherboard is well staffed with flux.
When you feel confident about the flux, take the thinnest solder you have and put it around the RSX chip and make sure it firmly touches all the surrounding edged solder balls with it.
Now you have a big square of unheated and unmelted solder all around the rsx chip.
Now cut a small piece of that solder place it in a place "alone" and make use of the maths you learned in school.
Measure and make sure to use the exact heat(C/F) it needs to meld not more as we dont need to meld the solder balls of the rsx chip only the leaded solder we placed there.
And also measure the time it needs to meld, i use my phone timer for these.
Make sure you tested twice or more to get the exact Celsius/Fahrenheit and seconds you need to hold the heat on it.
Now you are ready.
Go around the rsx chip slowly but steady so you see with your eyes the solder you place there to meld and join with the solder balls of the chip.
Pay attention to the side the cpu chip as is going to be a little tougher to do properly that side of the rsx chip so adjust your heatgun flow angle so you make it efficiently.
Let it cool down and inspect it well with your eyes or a magnifying glass make sure solder balls are separate and not joined together.
If you see joins you need to use the heatgun carefully at that spot to separate the join with heat.
Note: You need to use "no clean flux" for apparent reasons
Thats it actually. Assemble and try.
Good luck.
P.s.
If it works is time to delid the rsx and replace the thermal paste under and over the IHS because we dont want the gpu to overheat as it will meld our newly added solder. If you keep it inside safe temps the glod wont come back.

WOW please dont recommend this to others this is certainly not the way to test this or fix this. If u are just trying to re attach solder from around the edges a simple pressure test will show u if this is the issue. u can easily join solder balls and have bridges that u cant reach doing this. GLOD isnt the BGA balls or pads its the substrate thats failed, heating that up to melting temps like u have can recover them but it wont last, even when recovered its just a matter of when it GLODs again.

Id like to see documentation of these claimed 7/8 consoles but this belongs in another thread.
 
Look i will give you a solution that has worked for the majority of Glods that came to my attention but i cannot promise this will work for you 100%.
Put plenty of flux around the RSX , make sure all the gpu pins have flux touching them. i wear a rubber glove and i go around the chip with my index finger. Put enough so all the round from rsx to motherboard is well staffed with flux.
When you feel confident about the flux, take the thinnest solder you have and put it around the RSX chip and make sure it firmly touches all the surrounding edged solder balls with it.
Now you have a big square of unheated and unmelted solder all around the rsx chip.
Now cut a small piece of that solder place it in a place "alone" and make use of the maths you learned in school.
Measure and make sure to use the exact heat(C/F) it needs to meld not more as we dont need to meld the solder balls of the rsx chip only the leaded solder we placed there.
And also measure the time it needs to meld, i use my phone timer for these.
Make sure you tested twice or more to get the exact Celsius/Fahrenheit and seconds you need to hold the heat on it.
Now you are ready.
Go around the rsx chip slowly but steady so you see with your eyes the solder you place there to meld and join with the solder balls of the chip.
Pay attention to the side the cpu chip as is going to be a little tougher to do properly that side of the rsx chip so adjust your heatgun flow angle so you make it efficiently.
Let it cool down and inspect it well with your eyes or a magnifying glass make sure solder balls are separate and not joined together.
If you see joins you need to use the heatgun carefully at that spot to separate the join with heat.
Note: You need to use "no clean flux" for apparent reasons
Thats it actually. Assemble and try.
Good luck.
P.s.
If it works is time to delid the rsx and replace the thermal paste under and over the IHS because we dont want the gpu to overheat as it will meld our newly added solder. If you keep it inside safe temps the glod wont come back.
Hi do you a video tutoial, please
Thanks
 
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