PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

What would delidding do, besides lowering temperatures once the system is working?

And another thing i would like to ask everyone, anyone know of a good tutorial on how to reflow the two main chips? And can it be done with a regular two setting heat gun? Thanks.
yeah i know one there's on youtube about a repair on ps3 slim red of death that person applied a little of flus near chips solder balls and mounted it on a infred station
 
yeah i know one there's on youtube about a repair on ps3 slim red of death that person applied a little of flus near chips solder balls and mounted it on a infred station
I have a CECHH that i revived after replacing 1 RSX tokin that freezes and shows artifacts ten seconds after booting, responds to being pushed on the RSX chip, presumably because of cracked joints, so i don't really mind trying seeing as it's useless now.
Well, i used a heat gun (1500W) and flux, 500 Celsius, for five minutes on the delidded RSX. 4 minutes in, a capacitor right next to the RSX came free after touching it with my tweezers, this was my method of knowing when the solder has gone molten, so i waited one more minute to make sure every pad under the chip was reflowed. But the result is an instant YLOD, and 0 ohm continuity between the positive and negative pads of the tokins. So it's dead, isn't it? :(
 
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@squeept my CECHE01 just decided to kick the bucket today. It has been working fine after delid and repaste. Do you care to run analysis on it for posterity?

EDIT
Resurrected with flux and a heat gun. Who knows how long it lives this time. Would still like to send for analysis. I did not even replace thermal paste and was able to run uncharted 2 for half an hour under 60C @ 60% fan speed

If you already replaced the tokins, there's not much I can shed a light on. I'd lift the RSX and find evidence of cracks.
 
Regarding the heatgun discussion: If you are attempting any kind of back alley reflow with only a heatgun and no preheater, there are only 3 possible outcomes:

1.) You didn't get it hot enough to melt solder, nothing changes.
2.) You didn't get it hot enough to melt solder, it works temporarily because you flexed the board.
3.) You got it hot enough to melt the solder, but because there was no bottom heat, you far exceeded the safe temps on top and popcorned the board or chip.

It would be a miracle for it to work out any other way.

Techs working on phones and handhelds and other thin boards can get away with only top heat because the board doesn't act like a gigantic heatsink, so they don't have to crank the temp to a million degrees. The board in a fat PS3 is something like a dozen layers of copper, and many of them are just ground planes - pretty much a solid sheet of copper.
 
Regarding the heatgun discussion: If you are attempting any kind of back alley reflow with only a heatgun and no preheater, there are only 3 possible outcomes:

1.) You didn't get it hot enough to melt solder, nothing changes.
2.) You didn't get it hot enough to melt solder, it works temporarily because you flexed the board.
3.) You got it hot enough to melt the solder, but because there was no bottom heat, you far exceeded the safe temps on top and popcorned the board or chip.

It would be a miracle for it to work out any other way.

Techs working on phones and handhelds and other thin boards can get away with only top heat because the board doesn't act like a gigantic heatsink, so they don't have to crank the temp to a million degrees. The board in a fat PS3 is something like a dozen layers of copper, and many of them are just ground planes - pretty much a solid sheet of copper.
Number three for me then. Sure wish i would have seen this info before :D
 
Have a phat ps3 that ran TLOU last year with only YOLD in few places(thought overheat). Then tried to play L.A. Noir and it dies on launch, ran GT6 Yold after 5 min 1st training race. So attempted to replace nec/tokins. Removed them without damaging surrounding i think. Just 1 lil scratch on the bottom. Sadly after replacing Tokins with 470uf 6.3v i got a long YOLD. (doesn't show anything on screen). Will attempt to redo this thing tmr. If anyone can see and point me obvious errors in my first time smd soldering crappy job, please do so. Otherwise i'll probably start from the most messy (very first one under CPU).
Don't mind sound of fan at the video i didn't assemble properly just connected every thing so it hits something, as well as speed of it I believe last time i turned it i left fan on 80% in multiman.
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Addition to ^ I actually accembled cooling system properly(no thermal paste) and YOLD happened after much longer time (25 - 30 sec). PS3 gradually increased fan speed to max before YOLD. But is it realistic for ps to overheat in 25 sec from cold start? or I killed RSX some how with tokin replacement? it doesn't out put anything on hdmi before yolding
 
I redit my work and removed 2 jumper wires to leave only 2 on the other side. Screwed ps3 together (no termal paste) It ran till this screen and then Yolded. After it ran again but didn't show anything on screen. But green light was on. So i shuted it and tried to run again Instant yold. Fuse?
 
I checked all fuses that i found they all still have connectivity. so i decided to remove jumper wires and all capacitors where GPU and CPU not presented. When i pluged it it YLODed instanly, I tried to turn it on again and some thng blew in the circle with smoke. But connectivity still on all elements and in that multi leg component. So I Think it was one of the new capacitors. I soldered back jumper wires and capacitors with redoing the one under rsx still same console just YLODing instantly. CEHE01 Dead?
 
If you already replaced the tokins, there's not much I can shed a light on. I'd lift the RSX and find evidence of cracks.
I have not replaced anything at all!


That being said, I got carried away with a cok001 board with a heat gun and destroyed the NECs and started to warp the board. Don't know if that one is salvageable or not.
 
I checked all fuses that i found they all still have connectivity. so i decided to remove jumper wires and all capacitors where GPU and CPU not presented. When i pluged it it YLODed instanly, I tried to turn it on again and some thng blew in the circle with smoke. But connectivity still on all elements and in that multi leg component. So I Think it was one of the new capacitors. I soldered back jumper wires and capacitors with redoing the one under rsx still same console just YLODing instantly. CEHE01 Dead?
well its time for you to be a little professional now. With that being said i would advise you to perform syscon testing if your motherborad is COK-2.
And you find the schematics for points on the borad.post them to me too all the ones you can find specially DIA-2 motherborad point schematics.
 
well its time for you to be a little professional now. With that being said i would advise you to perform syscon testing if your motherborad is COK-2.
And you find the schematics for points on the borad.post them to me too all the ones you can find specially DIA-2 motherborad point schematics.
what is syscon testing? Ye mother board is cock - 002. I believe some one posted mother board schematics already

UPD: https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_cok-002_5th.pdf
page 29 is the green/white schematic of COK-002 board. Is that what you are looking for?
 
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what is syscon testing? Ye mother board is cock - 002. I believe some one posted mother board schematics already

UPD: https://gamesx.com/wiki/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=schematics:sony_ps3_cok-002_5th.pdf
page 29 is the green/white schematic of COK-002 board. Is that what you are looking for?
These are not what's needed The ones i am talking about are four points that are to be solder on a usb to be connected with computer and running a program to generate syscon error log
pherhaps @sandungas can assist for these syscon schematics.
Would like to have all supported borads schematics if possible but DIA-002 is what i need the most.[/QUOTE]
 
have you checked this thread? seems like github repo from the thread has all you need there are pics for syscon points for cok and dia boards.
Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting
for some reason forum not allowing me to put link to the thread, so just do search on the forum.
 
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have you checked this thread? seems like github repo from the thread has all you need there are pics for syscon points for cok and dia boards.
SYSCON Firmware key is now public (release by zecoxao) - What does it mean?
for some reason forum not allowing me to put link to the thread, so just do search on the forum.

may not have enough posts. we used to have issues with Chinese spammers, so some restrictions were put into place to eliminate that.
 
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/f...-syscon-first-steps-and-error-reporting.30100

Yes, i'm the one that started this.

I'm currently doing a testpoints for the SEM-001 board, voltage and resistance readings on working board on all test points and common areas to diagnose.

have you checked this thread? seems like github repo from the thread has all you need there are pics for syscon points for cok and dia boards.
Fault finding YLOD with the SYSCON - First steps and Error reporting
for some reason forum not allowing me to put link to the thread, so just do search on the forum.
 
This whole thread makes me so worried for those poor PS3 motherboards, being butchered without proper diagnosis!


well its time for you to be a little professional now. With that being said i would advise you to perform syscon testing if your motherborad is COK-2.
And you find the schematics for points on the borad.post them to me too all the ones you can find specially DIA-2 motherborad point schematics.
 
This whole thread makes me so worried for those poor PS3 motherboards, being butchered without proper diagnosis!
Well look at this from other angle. People learn something new by attempting the fix, even if board is ruined. PS3 has very low value currently, cos it's too early to have retro gaming status, and really worth for ppl who plays ps2 games, or wanna just play through exclusives.

For my console it was working (doubt syscon would show me anything at that point, unless you can put load on it).
I couldn't play games i wanted cos was yloding on heavy games. I got this thing for free, so only regret I can have is wasted hours on cleaning and fixing physical damages, once i got that. And future tries to fix it for me just out of curiosity to try and learn something new. :)
 
Yeah well that all talked about is there anyone who would like to tell the tale of his PS3 Fat MGS4 Limited Edition Black Matted color suffering ylod and reviving i am sure @Naked_Snake1995 would have a story of console to tell.What are the odds and what are the faults
 
If people are happy to waste their time, without a proper path to follow, then, yeh sure, good luck to them!

For me i would rather follow a path that has some logic and proper diagnosis before attempting this kind of endeavour.

So yes, there is always two sides to a coin.

Well look at this from other angle. People learn something new by attempting the fix, even if board is ruined. PS3 has very low value currently, cos it's too early to have retro gaming status, and really worth for ppl who plays ps2 games, or wanna just play through exclusives.

For my console it was working (doubt syscon would show me anything at that point, unless you can put load on it).
I couldn't play games i wanted cos was yloding on heavy games. I got this thing for free, so only regret I can have is wasted hours on cleaning and fixing physical damages, once i got that. And future tries to fix it for me just out of curiosity to try and learn something new. :)
 
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