Temperatures for Slim [CECH-2504B]?

[sandungas]

I cant tell if your PS3 was perfect, and i dont want to make you feel bad, also i use to be picky with tests, to check that is needed to start the PS3 from ambient temperature (lets say 30ºC) and stay idle in XMB for 30 minutes or so, at that point you should have a difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX really small, i mean... smaller than 3ºC... in my PS3 it was 0ºC of difference the last time i took a look at it

But keep in mind the differences of temperatures from the people that reports in forums differs mostly because:
1) we are not replacing the paste under IHS's.... so we relly in the factory paste, is applyed a bit randomnly and some PS3 units have the pastes better spreaded than others

2) the flatness of the heatsink and IHS surfaces varyes a lot, there is a video in the forum of a guy where it can be seen very well, he did a very good analysis of the problem, some heatsinks surfaces have like "scratches" and the surface is not completly plane, also the IHS surface sometimes is a bit curved

That small variations in between PS3 units is what makes some people report small differences of 5ºC up or down (not much more i guess)
Im mentioning this because there is people that says "every PS3 is different and have different temperature", but thats not completly true because 2 different PS3 of the same model should have exactly the same temperatures... the truth is... "every assembly in between heatsink and IHS's, and how the pastes are spreaded are different"
You know... that assembly in between surfaces and his planarity should be meassured in micrometers (but we cant meassure it)

-----------
Anyway, what you should do with the CECH-25xx is what has been mentioned before in the thread... by bending the metal clamps at the back of the heatsink you can increase the pressure, and this could help to the cracked solder ball to make electrical contact temporally... enought for the PS3 to boot and this should give you a confirmation that you have a cracked ball under RSX

But there is another problem that actually happened to me, and i dont feel shame to admiting in public... when you assemble the metal shields (the sheets that covers the motherboard like a sandwich) they needs to be assembled in a specific order, and doing a precise movement (there is a point where you need to close them like closing a book)
If you dont do this correctly... it seems the metal touches the circuits somewhere and creates a short circuit
In that state the PS3 is going to do exactly the same you mentioned... it enters in standby with the red led... but when you try to turn it ON doesnt boots
I dont remember exactly the led error code it does... i was a bit in panic mode, lol


And another btw... incase you have a cracked ball under RSX the 2 ways to fix it are by a "reflow" or a "reballing"
A reflow is the cheap/ghetto way... basically, it means re-heating it and praying for the solder balls to resolder by themselfs
A reballing is the professional way... there are some reballing machines that costs thousands of dollars, is needed to remove the RSX, clean it up the old solder balls, replacing the solder balls by new ones, and resoldering them with an infrared heater that have the reballing machines

The reballing could be a bit expensive, and you are going to find lot of people that advertises themselfs as professionals, but they are not, they does reballings but low quality with a machine that did cost 200$ or so (very cheap in comparison with the other rebaliling machines)
If you find some place where they does reballlings in a good way and for a good price... it worths the money and is a good repair... actually better than the factory soldering

 

[Filipe Santos]

I cant tell if your PS3 was perfect, and i dont want to make you feel bad, also i use to be picky with tests, to check that is needed to start the PS3 from ambient temperature (lets say 30ºC) and stay idle in XMB for 30 minutes or so, at that point you should have a difference of temperatures in between CELL and RSX really small, i mean... smaller than 3ºC... in my PS3 it was 0ºC of difference the last time i took a look at it

But keep in mind the differences of temperatures from the people that reports in forums differs mostly because:
1) we are not replacing the paste under IHS's.... so we relly in the factory paste, is applyed a bit randomnly and some PS3 units have the pastes better spreaded than others

2) the flatness of the heatsink and IHS surfaces varyes a lot, there is a video in the forum of a guy where it can be seen very well, he did a very good analysis of the problem, some heatsinks surfaces have like "scratches" and the surface is not completly plane, also the IHS surface sometimes is a bit curved

That small variations in between PS3 units is what makes some people report small differences of 5ºC up or down (not much more i guess)
Im mentioning this because there is people that says "every PS3 is different and have different temperature", but thats not completly true because 2 different PS3 of the same model should have exactly the same temperatures... the truth is... "every assembly in between heatsink and IHS's, and how the pastes are spreaded are different"
You know... that assembly in between surfaces and his planarity should be meassured in micrometers (but we cant meassure it)

-----------
Anyway, what you should do with the CECH-25xx is what has been mentioned before in the thread... by bending the metal clamps at the back of the heatsink you can increase the pressure, and this could help to the cracked solder ball to make electrical contact temporally... enought for the PS3 to boot and this should give you a confirmation that you have a cracked ball under RSX

But there is another problem that actually happened to me, and i dont feel shame to admiting in public... when you assemble the metal shields (the sheets that covers the motherboard like a sandwich) they needs to be assembled in a specific order, and doing a precise movement (there is a point where you need to close them like closing a book)
If you dont do this correctly... it seems the metal touches the circuits somewhere and creates a short circuit
In that state the PS3 is going to do exactly the same you mentioned... it enters in standby with the red led... but when you try to turn it ON doesnt boots
I dont remember exactly the led error code it does... i was a bit in panic mode, lol


And another btw... incase you have a cracked ball under RSX the 2 ways to fix it are by a "reflow" or a "reballing"
A reflow is the cheap/ghetto way... basically, it means re-heating it and praying for the solder balls to resolder by themselfs
A reballing is the professional way... there are some reballing machines that costs thousands of dollars, is needed to remove the RSX, clean it up the old solder balls, replacing the solder balls by new ones, and resoldering them with an infrared heater that have the reballing machines

The reballing could be a bit expensive, and you are going to find lot of people that advertises themselfs as professionals, but they are not, they does reballings but low quality with a machine that did cost 200$ or so (very cheap in comparison with the other rebaliling machines)
If you find some place where they does reballlings in a good way and for a good price... it worths the money and is a good repair... actually better than the factory soldering

Thanks for the extra tips.
Man yeah I'm very picky with them temps too lol.
Somehow i have a feeling it was the metal plates because my other slim also died and i never attempted to remove the ihs boards on it and it just died after me playing 5 minutes of alien isolation.
Turned console off then on and it done same thing.
And i never bothered to remove thermal paste on it or anything so i think the only explanation for this behavior it could be because of these metal boards short circuiting the motherboard.

As for reballing I don't know anybody that does this sort of thing and I don't have the technologic expertise to deal with electronics that deep unfortunatly so it's just two dead slims I got.

Have you got any experience regarding the superslims?
Are they easy to replace the thermal paste on them?
Do they have these metal plates on them?

As for the metal clamps i bent both big time and no results so I have a feeling it's these metal plates causing this issue plus the top part its really annoying to remove where the HDMI is at the back part.

Yeah console doesn't boot or anything , red lights on you turn it on and turns off right after.

Yeah I've also seen a video of some guy showing the heatsink didn't sit properly on the ihs board because it wasn't completely flat.
There's always something in these consoles.
It's a shame really because I love the ps3 homebrew and specially jailbroken it's great to play retroarch ps2 and ps1 games but the fact is there's so many problems with them because sony never builds the consoles to last more than 10 years i bet.
And for those that don't have problems it's simple. They will if not tended to.
And on top of that $ony should be ashamed really because consoles with 25 years or more like Nes , Master System , Mega Drive still work to this day and these consoles are what they are because Sony built them just to make money which leads me to this scene because I'm not going to throw my cash away on a stupid ps4 where most games are cheap remasters of the ps3 , most games aren't that great and then graphics are as nearly as the same as on a ps3!

 

[sandungas]

What i mentioned about the metal shields doing a shorcircuit doesnt causes permanent damage btw... the only thing that happens is the short circuit doesnt allows the PS3 to boot
But if you dissassemble the PS3 and assemble it again (keeping attention at how the metal shields attaches to each other) the PS3 will work normally again

What happens in the PSU and/or the motherboard detects the short circuits and have some kind of protection against them
I can tell my experience... i had that kind of short circuits created by the metal shields... my PS3 was refusing to boot (thanks sony for that protection)... then i had to open the PS3 to review all parts and this is where i realized about my mistake with the metal shields... so i assembled it... and when i tryed to boot it it booted normally (and this is when i was like "feeew i feel lucky")

That happened in 20010 or so... and is still workingnormally, i never made any other repair in it or had to replace any part... so im sure that nothing was damaged that day

 

[Filipe Santos]

What i mentioned about the metal shields doing a shorcircuit doesnt causes permanent damage btw... the only thing that happens is the short circuit doesnt allows the PS3 to boot
But if you dissassemble the PS3 and assemble it again (keeping attention at how the metal shields attaches to each other) the PS3 will work normally again

What happens in the PSU and/or the motherboard detects the short circuits and have some kind of protection against them
I can tell my experience... i had that kind of short circuits created by the metal shields... my PS3 was refusing to boot (thanks sony for that protection)... then i had to open the PS3 to review all parts and this is where i realized about my mistake with the metal shields... so i assembled it... and when i tryed to boot it it booted normally (and this is when i was like "feeew i feel lucky")

That happened in 20010 or so... and is still workingnormally, i never made any other repair in it or had to replace any part... so im sure that nothing was damaged that day

I disassembled mine and reassembled it many times and the problem persists.
Maybe its the chip as you guys are saying whats strange is my other one did the same and i never went as far as this.
Anyways nothing can be done about it I'll be grabbing a superslim this week.

From what I've seen they don't have Ihs board on top at least of the ihs but the cell looks the same as on a slim.
A user on this forum told me that the cell ihs board can't be removed on a superslim because they have solder joints or something but I'm not so sure now because in this pic it looks the same as on a slim.
Do you guys know anything about this?

Here's what he said :
''The RSX on all 4XXX models has no IHS, the CELL on the 4XXX models uses either thermal adhesive or solder meaning there's essentially no way to delid it.
It doesn't use thermal paste it uses either solder or thermal adhesive, the temperature advantage from removing the IHS would likely be no more than 2-5C and coming at the risk of permanently destroying the console its not worth it. If you want one that runs very slightly cooler find one of the 42XX or 43XX models as they are much more likely to have the 28nm RSX.''

Is this true regarding the cell chip or what?

 

[sandungas]

Take a look at this, are 2 important things related with what we was talking about

In this thread i was talking about the problem of the metal shields assembly, basically you need to keep attention at the border where i painted the black arrows
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/overheat-problems-cell-delidding.25810/page-7#post-202795

And watch this video (and read my comment below it), the way how he checks the flatness of IHS (and heatsink) surfaces, using a razor blade and a lamp is very precise, it allows you to see very well if the surfaces are curved or have some imperfections
I can tell you this trick is used even by professionals... there are some meassuring instruments used in laboratories to check flatness of course... but this is superhandy, very fast to do, and very accurate
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/ps3-fat-overheating.23789/page-2#post-200569

While doing this check... if you see your heatsink surface or the IHS's are very curved or have many problems... well... you know where is the problem... and this is the point where you should consider if:
-buying a new heatsink
-try to do a lapping of your heatsink
-remove IHS's and make a lapping of them

You know.. the goal is to make the surfaces the most flat posible
But is always needed to think in all this using margins... lets say if you see that it have a very small imperfection maybe is better to forget about it and dont do anything... lets say... having an small problem could be aceptable

 

[Filipe Santos]

Yes that's the video and yes that's the annoying bit where the metal part tends to hang specially the bottom part because there's some teeth in it.
Anyways do you know anything about the superslim?

 

[sandungas]

I disassembled mine and reassembled it many times and the problem persists.
Maybe its the chip as you guys are saying whats strange is my other one did the same and i never went as far as this.
Anyways nothing can be done about it I'll be grabbing a superslim this week.

From what I've seen they don't have Ihs board on top at least of the ihs but the cell looks the same as on a slim.
A user on this forum told me that the cell ihs board can't be removed on a superslim because they have solder joints or something but I'm not so sure now because in this pic it looks the same as on a slim.
Do you guys know anything about this?

Here's what he said :
''The RSX on all 4XXX models has no IHS, the CELL on the 4XXX models uses either thermal adhesive or solder meaning there's essentially no way to delid it.
It doesn't use thermal paste it uses either solder or thermal adhesive, the temperature advantage from removing the IHS would likely be no more than 2-5C and coming at the risk of permanently destroying the console its not worth it. If you want one that runs very slightly cooler find one of the 42XX or 43XX models as they are much more likely to have the 28nm RSX.''

Is this true regarding the cell chip or what?

In that photo of a superslim the RSX is the big chip with a die in the center and 4 (video memory) chips in the corner. So there is no need to do anything with RSX in superslims because doesnt have IHS
The only thing you need to worry related with the RSX in superslims is to check the flatness of the metal piece that touches the die in the center of RSX, is an small squared metal piece made of copper, and is soldered to the heatsink copper pipes
The problem is the copper of that square (that is supposed to be perfectly flat) can be curved very easilly

Incase is curved... you need to do like a "lapping" of it... with sandpaper, etc... watch some videos and search for info in google, there are many ways to do this, some are going to give you a perfect result... others are meh

And ive heard in superslims the IHS of CELL is soldered to it... mostly what AMD and INTEL does with his high performance CPU's. This has a lot better heat transfer than any thermal paste, also you cant "desolder it" because the die is going to break
The die is mostly like mineral and it have the fragility of a thin glass... eventually could appear like a "fracture" that is a thin line all along crossing it from one side to the other

Im not sure if is true that the superslims have the CELL IHS soldered to it, i never saw a photo of it, but someone said it here in the forum and the way how he/she wrote it made me believe is true

 

[Filipe Santos]

In that photo of a superslim the RSX is the big chip with a die in the center and 4 (video memory) chips in the corner. So there is no need to do anything with RSX in superslims because doesnt have IHS
The only thing you need to worry related with the RSX in superslims is to check the flatness of the metal piece that touches the die in the center of RSX, is an small squared metal piece made of copper, and soldered to the heatsink copper pipes
The problem is the copper of that square (that is supposed to be perfectly flat) can be curved very easilly

Incase is curved... you need to do like a "lapping" of it... with sandpaper, etc... watch some videos and search for info in google, there are many ways to do this, some are going to give you a perfect result... others are meh

And ive heard in superslims the IHS of CELL is soldered to it... mostly what AMD and intel does with his CPU's with high performance. This has a lot better heat transfer than any thermal paste, also you cant "desolder it" because the die is going to break
The die is mostly like mineral and it have the fragility of a thin glass... eventually could appear like a "fracture" that is a thin line all along crossing it from one side to the other

Im not sure if is true that the superslims have the CELL IHS soldered to it, i never saw a photo of it, but someone said it here in the forum and the way how he/she wrote it made me believe is true

yeah thats the info i got aswel that the cell ihs is soldered. if thats true then great thats the way it should be like amd and intel do their things proper!
At least the RSX ihs on the superslim was removed and it's much easier to replace paste in the future if needed and same for the cpu if it's soldered (hopefully) .

Have you got any photos of that metal piece that touches the die in the RSX center and the whole heatsink for a quick inspection?

Oh I see what you mean now.

Are the superslims known for blacking out after a complete dissassemble and reassemble?
I'm only asking this because if I'm to do anything with , at max ,I'll just replace the thermal paste when needed and put it all back .

 

[sandungas]

It can be seen in this photo
The little square is made of copper, and the copper is a "soft" metal prone to deform, so you should make the test of the video above with a razor blade to check his flatness

As far i know the superslims are not prone to blackout... but the other PS3 models are not either
And i think your 2 slims could have some kind of problem that is confusing you... you know it uses to happen something stops working and you dont know what happened but eventually you find something that makes you feel like facepalming and you fix it easilly and starts working again (a bit like what happened to me with the metal shields, hehehe)

So.. dunno, but i would not throw the towell with the slims yet, make some different tests with them, eventually you could find something. Also, in the worst scenario you have replacement parts from PS3 slims
So... if i where you i would try to fix the slims, or buy another slim (not a superslim)

 

[Filipe Santos]

It can be seen in this photo
The little square is made of copper, and the copper is a "soft" metal prone to deform, so you should make the test of the video above with a razor blade to check his flatness

As far i know the superslims are not prone to blackout... but the other PS3 models are not either
And i think your 2 slims could have some kind of problem that is confusing you... you know it uses to happen something stops working and you dont know what happened but eventually you find something that makes you feel like facepalming and you fix it easilly and starts working again (a bit like what happened to me with the metal shields, hehehe)

So.. dunno, but i would not throw the towell with the slims yet, make some different tests with them, eventually you could find something. Also, in the worst scenario you have replacement parts from PS3 slims
So... if i where you i would try to fix the slims, or buy another slim (not a superslim)

Thanks for the photo. Yeah that's much clearer.
I don't think I'll be able to fix these slims at all to be honest and I'm pretty much fed up trying to fix slims because they all share the same problem that the thermal paste needs removed and the ihs boards removed aswel so the whole things repasted.

Nakedsnake mentioned he had same problem as me with the 25xx models.
''Personally ive given up on the 2500 Series, currently i own two 2100 Series, its a step down from the 2500, but so far they have been reliable.

I would suggest a later 4000 Model, they are fairly reliable as well, but for someone who is accustomed to CFW, can be a bit of a pain to work with HEN.

What i would advise its a 2100 or a 4000 Series.''

As I'm not risking another slim i'd rather go for a superslim I might be luckier.
I know it's a stepdown from using a console with cfw but as long as I can copy them games to the hdd and play them it's fine with me which I guess Hen enables the console to do that after installing multiman.

 

[sandungas]

Im not a native english speaker, so eventually i use weird words like "planarity" :P
But take a look at this, i was searching in gogle which words to use and found this:
http://www.engineeringessentials.com/gdt/flatness/flatness.htm

One of the important things i mentioned before is the "tolerance"
If the tolerance is small... well.. you can ignore the problem and dont do anything, the result is your PS3 is going to operate a few degress over the theoretical optimal... but incase this translates into lets say... 2 or 3 degress it doesnt matters much
It becomes a real problem when the tolerance is huge (like in the video that i posted above), this is the point where you need to do something to fix it

This is one of the most important reasons why every PS3 unit have a different temperature
But 2 motherboards of the same model should generate exactly the same temperature

And btw... the image most at bottom in the link is exactly how the PS3 heatsinks assembly looks in general because are not polished
If we could take a look at a PS3 heatsink with an electronic microscope we would see the disaster, like a rift with mountains

 

[sandungas]

If you are decided to get a superslim because temperatures take a look at this photos
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Motherboard_Revisions
And the motherboard component list in this page
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:SKU_Models

It looks the CELL size was reduced for CECH-42xx & CECH-43xx ...lets say... is the last revision of CELL
This means less heat, that motherboards are the most efficient
The heatsink and fans for superslims is not that good though, they reduced his sizes too, this is why the PS3 slims CECH-25xx are like the "sweet spot"

In CECH-30xx they started going downhill reducing manufacturing costs too much
The motherboards are better in every revision... but the other parts of the PS3 after CECH-25xx are not so good

 

[Filipe Santos]

If you are decided to get a superslim because temperatures take a look at this photos
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Motherboard_Revisions
And the motherboard component list in this page
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:SKU_Models

It looks the CELL size was reduced for CECH-42xx & CECH-43xx ...lets say... is the last revision of CELL
This means less heat, that motherboards are the most efficient
The heatsink and fans for superslims is not that good though, they reduced his sizes too, this is why the PS3 slims CECH-25xx are like the "sweet spot"

In CECH-30xx they started going downhill reducing manufacturing costs too much
The motherboards are better in every revision... but the other parts of the PS3 after CECH-25xx are not so good

yeah im decided to go for a superslim i'm just wondering if copying games on multiman (not isos) will work on same way it works on a cfw console.
I'm told the superslim isn't that great for ps2 emulation and ps1 but that's fine i can live without it . I'm happy enough playing ps3 games anyways.

I'm going to get a 42xx revision.
Hopefully won't nag me as much with the temps and if they go real high on idle just a simple thermal paste exchange will do and that's me.

 

[Filipe Santos]

If you are decided to get a superslim because temperatures take a look at this photos
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Motherboard_Revisions
And the motherboard component list in this page
https://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:SKU_Models

It looks the CELL size was reduced for CECH-42xx & CECH-43xx ...lets say... is the last revision of CELL
This means less heat, that motherboards are the most efficient
The heatsink and fans for superslims is not that good though, they reduced his sizes too, this is why the PS3 slims CECH-25xx are like the "sweet spot"

In CECH-30xx they started going downhill reducing manufacturing costs too much
The motherboards are better in every revision... but the other parts of the PS3 after CECH-25xx are not so good

Hey Sandungas , next time I'm opening a PS3 I'll be wearing surgical gloves.
Thanks for all that info it's really useful.
I'll be checking the temps on the Superslim and see how it goes from there and if needed i'll get the thermal paste sorted and here's to another 10 years of PS3 (hopefully!)

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

yeah im decided to go for a superslim i'm just wondering if copying games on multiman (not isos) will work on same way it works on a cfw console.
I'm told the superslim isn't that great for ps2 emulation and ps1 but that's fine i can live without it . I'm happy enough playing ps3 games anyways.

I'm going to get a 42xx revision.
Hopefully won't nag me as much with the temps and if they go real high on idle just a simple thermal paste exchange will do and that's me.

None of the PlayStation3 models are great for PlayStation2 Emulation, since they all run via Software (PS2Net_Emu), the exception to that rule is the Hardware Based Backwards Compatible Models (CECHA/B/C/E), but even thoes present some problems, but its just a few titles nothing major, but Software Emulation its really poor, luckily community made fixes improved the compatibility for the Emulator, but it wasn't meant to be a PlayStation2 replacement.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

 

[Filipe Santos]

None of the PlayStation3 models are great for PlayStation2 Emulation, since they all run via Software (PS2Net_Emu), the exception to that rule is the Hardware Based Backwards Compatible Models (CECHA/B/C/E), but even thoes present some problems, but its just a few titles nothing major, but Software Emulation its really poor, luckily community made fixes improved the compatibility for the Emulator, but it wasn't meant to be a PlayStation2 replacement.

Sent from my G8141 using Tapatalk

hey nakedsnake thanks for your advice after my troubles with the two slims.
so after running hen and dropping isos of ps2 games onto the ps3 will they run via multiman or will it push the superslim big time?
i ran before onto a couple titles that didnt work well on the ps2 that being need for speed underground. apart from that most games work fine.
oh and ill be checking them temps when i have the superslim in my hands and if needed repasted i'll risk opening it and do it and fingers crossed it won't blackout too as i had enough of ps3s breaking!

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

hey nakedsnake thanks for your advice after my troubles with the two slims.
so after running hen and dropping isos of ps2 games onto the ps3 will they run via multiman or will it push the superslim big time?
i ran before onto a couple titles that didnt work well on the ps2 that being need for speed underground. apart from that most games work fine.
oh and ill be checking them temps when i have the superslim in my hands and if needed repasted i'll risk opening it and do it and fingers crossed it won't blackout too as i had enough of ps3s breaking!

All Software Based Backwards Compatibility PlayStation3s will run the same regarding on which model you use, performace will not be different from each other, the emulator used its the same used in the PlayStation2 Classics Official Titles from PlayStation Network, regarding if is Official PS2 PKG, PKG Conversion or ISO, they all three will run the same, this Emulator has No Optical-Disc Support,because it was never meant to be a replacement for the Hardware Based Backwards Compatibility, $ony had another Emulator in mind after the 80Gb CECHE01 Model, with the introduction of the CECHG Model, dubbed the PS2SoftEmu, this emulator was pretty much identical to the Hardware Based BC Emulators, with the exception being that the GS Workload,has been moved to the RSX,since no PlayStation2 Hardware was present, and it had Optical Disc Support, unfortunately the Emulator was a buggy mess, and experimental, only accessible in Factory Service Mode until Firmware 2.80, eventualy it got discarted,and never saw the light of day.

Dont worry about using Software Based Backwards Compatibility, if the "feature" damaged PS3 units in the first place,then i am sure $ony wouldnt implement it, in the first place, of course Emulation will push the hardware a bit, but nothing to worrisome, use it for the PS2 Titles that are compatible, for the incompatible titles use a real PlayStation2.

Personaly i use my CECHC04 for PlayStation2,since almost 94% of the titles are playable, with the only exception being Ratchet & Clank, which runs quite slow, due to the absence of the Emotion Engine CPU, other than that,everything i throw at it will play just fine,sometimes even better than the Original PlayStation2, but CECHAs are still the big players when it comes to Backwards Compatibility.

PS: HEN does not support PS2 ISO via BD Emulator,your only choice will have to be a conversion via PS2 Classics GUI, PS1 and PS3s will work just fine, no conversion is necessary.

 

[Filipe Santos]

All Software Based Backwards Compatibility PlayStation3s will run the same regarding on which model you use, performace will not be different from each other, the emulator used its the same used in the PlayStation2 Classics Official Titles from PlayStation Network, regarding if is Official PS2 PKG, PKG Conversion or ISO, they all three will run the same, this Emulator has No Optical-Disc Support,because it was never meant to be a replacement for the Hardware Based Backwards Compatibility, $ony had another Emulator in mind after the 80Gb CECHE01 Model, with the introduction of the CECHG Model, dubbed the PS2SoftEmu, this emulator was pretty much identical to the Hardware Based BC Emulators, with the exception being that the GS Workload,has been moved to the RSX,since no PlayStation2 Hardware was present, and it had Optical Disc Support, unfortunately the Emulator was a buggy mess, and experimental, only accessible in Factory Service Mode until Firmware 2.80, eventualy it got discarted,and never saw the light of day.

Dont worry about using Software Based Backwards Compatibility, if the "feature" damaged PS3 units in the first place,then i am sure $ony wouldnt implement it, in the first place, of course Emulation will push the hardware a bit, but nothing to worrisome, use it for the PS2 Titles that are compatible, for the incompatible titles use a real PlayStation2.

Personaly i use my CECHC04 for PlayStation2,since almost 94% of the titles are playable, with the only exception being Ratchet & Clank, which runs quite slow, due to the absence of the Emotion Engine CPU, other than that,everything i throw at it will play just fine,sometimes even better than the Original PlayStation2, but CECHAs are still the big players when it comes to Backwards Compatibility.

PS: HEN does not support PS2 ISO via BD Emulator,your only choice will have to be a conversion via PS2 Classics GUI, PS1 and PS3s will work just fine, no conversion is necessary.

Cool. Thanks for the extra info!
So this would be the right tool then?
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/u...-by-aldostools-adds-ps2-config-support.17182/

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

Cool. Thanks for the extra info!
So this would be the right tool then?
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/u...-by-aldostools-adds-ps2-config-support.17182/

Yes, thats the one, although i cant help you further because i dont own any HAN/HEN based machines, so ill leave that to more knowledgeable members to explain it how the tool works,and how to install it through HEN.

This method was the same for CFW machines, back in the Pre-Cobra Days, although it was easier because of the reACT PSN, although HEN doesnt support reACT PSN, making the process of instalation a bit more difficult, side note you´ll also need the PS2 Classics Launcher installed.

 

[Filipe Santos]

Yes, thats the one, although i cant help you further because i dont own any HAN/HEN based machines, so ill leave that to more knowledgeable members to explain it how the tool works,and how to install it through HEN.

That's ok you've been very helpful.
I'm downloading it soon as i have my superslim i'll give it a shot just by installing the pkg