PS3 [Tutorial] Connect ATX Power Supply to PS3

PS2 PSU's are not better than PS3 PSU's... are just different
The PS3 needs more watts, so the PS3 PSU's suffers a bigger workload than PS2 PSU's
 
Btw, you can use a PC ATX PSU permanently connected to the PS3, but in this thread is not explained how to control the ON/OFF PS3 button

For that is needed to follow this tutorial http://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-fully-working-atx-psu-mod.22214/
Overal is an "expansion" of what is explained here, because additionally he is dealing with the ON/OFF button signal in the correct way :encouragement:

So... if what you want is to make a temporal test for repair or check purposes what is explained in this thread is good enought
But for a permanent "mod" you should read what is explained here first... and then read the other tutorial
 
Md Hesam said:
why ps2's psu is better than ps3?
Ps2 perform is nice but ps3
Ps2 run is long lasting year by year
Ps3 is quick dead
Click to expand...
This comparasion its pretty ridiculous, you cannot compare a PlayStation2 against a PlayStation3.

PlayStation2 only lasts long, because its a low-powered machine, usually consuming around 35W on the original 2002, and around 15/18W on the Slims, while the PlayStation3 its basically a PC, with a power consumption around 398W on the PSU for the early 2006 machines and later to 180W on the 4000 Series, plus all that 3.2Ghz CELL B/E and the RSX crammed into a tiny shell.

This its like comparing a apples to oranges, they are fruits, are different, but you want them to taste the same,there is no point comparing.


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I have another 2 questions.When I used that method my ps3 turns off by it self ( the closest psu I used was like in the tutorial ) .2- is it possible to use my slim ps3 psu on my super slim ?? since my slim has gone for sure,
 
mcshooter said:
I have another 2 questions.When I used that method my ps3 turns off by it self ( the closest psu I used was like in the tutorial ) .2- is it possible to use my slim ps3 psu on my super slim ?? since my slim has gone for sure,
Click to expand...
If I'm not mistaken yeah, you can use it, but you'll need to figure out a way to fit it in the super slim o wire it from the outside. Just to make sure you know which wires go with which go to ps3devwiki.com and check the Slim's PSU connections.

Edit: when you say it powers off by itself, what do you mean exactly? If the PS3 turns on for a second and then shuts off it may be a bad connection on the ACIN_DET and 5VSB connections.
 
blckbear_ said:
If I'm not mistaken yeah, you can use it, but you'll need to figure out a way to fit it in the super slim o wire it from the outside. Just to make sure you know which wires go with which go to ps3devwiki.com and check the Slim's PSU connections.

Edit: when you say it powers off by itself, what do you mean exactly? If the PS3 turns on for a second and then shuts off it may be a bad connection on the ACIN_DET and 5VSB connections.
Click to expand...
Well I wired wires following the image in the above tutorial and worked and about turning on then off sometimes after 1 hour sometimes few minutes but I'm testing it right now so it doesn't turn off I'll put it inside a pre made box with that psu adding 3 or 4 brushless fans and couple of lights
 
mcshooter said:
Well I wired wires following the image in the above tutorial and worked and about turning on then off sometimes after 1 hour sometimes few minutes but I'm testing it right now so it doesn't turn off I'll put it inside a pre made box with that psu adding 3 or 4 brushless fans and couple of lights
Click to expand...
Well that's weird, I'd suggest checking all the connections just in case.
How many watts does your PSU deliver on the 12v rail? The stock Super Slim PSU delivers 156W (12v × 13A), maybe your PSU doesn't deliver enough power.
I'm just brainstorming trying to find a solution
 
Maybe is an overheat ?
Keep in mind the plastic shell of the PSU in PS3 slims and superslims have an additional function... it works as an "air duct"
Is hard to explain without images but the point is... the 100% of the air that goes out of the fan needs to enter inside the PSU plastic shell

If you remove the PSU completly then the air that goes out of the fan (that is hot) could enter again in the air circuit instead of being pushed out of the PS3 shell
So... in a PS3 slim or superslim, if you are going to "externalize" the PSU... one of the things you should do is to take the circuits board out of the old PS3 PSU (that most probably is broken) and keep the PS3 PSU plastic shell in his position (but empty)

Not sure if this is the reason why your PS3 is turning off though... im just thinking loud, and i guess you could do some temperature tests to see if is really overheating while playing

----------
Also, you should make a test to see if the wires in between the ATX PSU and the PS3 are overheating
As explained in the first pages of this thread, there are some wires that are going to carry low of watts (the 12v line and gnd)... but a single wire (one of the yellows) of an ATX PSU is not designed to carry so much watts
The solution is to connect several yellow wires together, if you are using only 1 probably is overheating in the connectors

The test consists just in play for some time... then turn OFF the PS3 and touch the plastic wires with your fingers (are low voltages, so no danger)
 
sandungas said:
Maybe is an overheat ?
Keep in mind the plastic shell of the PSU in PS3 slims and superslims have an additional function... it works as an "air duct"
Is hard to explain without images but the point is... the 100% of the air that goes out of the fan needs to enter inside the PSU plastic shell

If you remove the PSU completly then the air that goes out of the fan (that is hot) could enter again in the air circuit instead of being pushed out of the PS3 shell
So... in a PS3 slim or superslim, if you are going to "externalize" the PSU... one of the things you should do is to take the circuits board out of the old PS3 PSU (that most probably is broken) and keep the PS3 PSU plastic shell in his position (but empty)

Not sure if this is the reason why your PS3 is turning off though... im just thinking loud, and i guess you could do some temperature tests to see if is really overheating while playing

----------
Also, you should make a test to see if the wires in between the ATX PSU and the PS3 are overheating
As explained in the first pages of this thread, there are some wires that are going to carry low of watts (the 12v line and gnd)... but a single wire (one of the yellows) of an ATX PSU is not designed to carry so much watts
The solution is to connect several yellow wires together, if you are using only 1 probably is overheating in the connectors

The test consists just in play for some time... then turn OFF the PS3 and touch the plastic wires with your fingers (are low voltages, so no danger)
Click to expand...
I keep my ps3 turned on for 3 hours playing god of war 3 ( disk ) and the last of us and the results were amazing I replaced the psu of pc with the psu of a slim ps3 worked fine no overheat also it's the same method except for the red wire not needed since you only need the yellow and the black wire to solder them on the ps3 ( where 2 piece of metal came out ) and u'r gud to go and thanks yall for replaying.I will upload some images as soon as I complete the operation :D
 
What i said about joining several yellow wires together can be made with only 1 wire by soldering it inside the ATX PSU circuit board
If you open a ATX PSU you are going to see a bunch of wires of the same colors soldered in groups to the same "power rail"
ATX_PSU_innards_4.jpg


ATX PSU's with low of watts (common in desktop PCs) have 2 power rails of 12v... in this case you need to solder a single wire to one of the 12v power rails

If your ATX PSU have only 1 rail of 12v (common in small ATX PSU formats for HTPC or small devices) then there is no doubt... all yellow wires are connected to the same 12v rail :)
*Btw, this is why is more convenient to use a ATX PSU with a single 12v rail... the point is the PS3 only needs 1 rail of 12v so having 2 rails of 12v in the PSU is pointless
*Also is more convenient if you use a ATX PSU with a single 12v rail.... and with an amount of watts similar than the original PS3 PSU of your PS3 model... going a bit higher is fine... but going too much higer in the amount of watts is pointless

And for the 12v wire if you decide to solder in the ATX PSU you can use a thick wire and use proper connectors

For the PS3 slim and superslim are easy to find (are commonly used in cars an bikes and lot of devices). Are plane, and are named "faston terminals". You just need to place the wire in it and press the metal with plyers
CNX-6.3F.jpg


PS3 fat. are cylindrical, and are named "banana jacks"
s-l300.jpg
 
We should use Automatic Voltage Stablizer for PS3
I think,it is safe for PS3
It may be help for PS3's Power Supply
 
Md Hesam said:
We should use Automatic Voltage Stablizer for PS3
I think,it is safe for PS3
It may be help for PS3's Power Supply
Click to expand...
What do you mean a automatic voltage stabilizer? The PS3 PSUs already have that feature, if the PSU needs 100W it will happily supply 100W,if it needs 75W it will do.

Different PSUs for different configurations and different voltage needs!

Correct me if i am wrong

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Md Hesam said:
If the voltage goes up & down, then there will be some damage for ps3's psu
Click to expand...
PS3 PSUs isn't some kind of cheap sh!t you buy in china mate, they have overcurrent protection against spikes, and won't blow up so easily.

The voltage its constant, there its a clear difference between Volts and Watts.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
sandungas said:
PS3 fat. are cylindrical, and are named "banana jacks"
s-l300.jpg
Click to expand...
I just imagined a cheap replacement for the banana jacks
Mostly because the banana jacks is something you need to order online (hard to find in a shop near your house)

But this is easyer to find (if your country uses this plugs for 220v)
enchufe-hembra-aereo-bipolar.jpg

If you open it, have like 2 "tubes" made of copper that im guessing are going to match pretty fine with the cylindrical posts of some PS3 FAT motherboards (if not, you can deform that "tubes" a bit to make them a bit smaller of bigger)
 
sandungas said:
Thanks to you to start this talk :)

The same rules applyes to all PS3 models i think... the differences are the pinout of the small connector... and of course the watts of the original PSU (the first PS3 models CECHA, etc... had a big PSU)
Click to expand...

can I use atx psu 200w for ps3 super slim?
I think atx psu 200w is enough for ps3 super slim
 
Last edited:
Op. please were you able solve the power issue with your 25xx console.i have the same issue with mine.tested with atx psu and it shuts down abruptly after 15 to 20 mins.same thing happens with the ps3's aps 270 psu.on adjusting the ofc and pfc dials in the apu 270 psu, it shuts down after 1 to 5 mins.what could be the problem in this case?
 
My PS3 super slim had gotten an issue with power supply recently. Before that, my PS3 superslim had been kept in rack for a long time and then I decides to fire up. Then, my console starting behave abnormally by running the fan too loud during idle on XMB. Next day, I decided to reapply thermal paste and now my console power supply is dead when I turned on the console and just instantly turned off and the red led light appeared back.

Then, I'm stumbled upon this thread and follow the exact guide as given here and finally my console is now boots again.
DSC_0100.JPG


For now, this method would be temporary while figuring out how to set up like this but with pico PSU and also suitable 200W power brick.
 
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