Where to ask about PS3Xploit

I was going to buy another cechh01 for like $40 plus shipping but should I go with a slim instead? What model number should I look for?
Hi Daryth,

One simple answer for you, since you are in the U.S. :) = THIS ONE:

Slim: CECH-25xx = Until/Before March-2011 or 1A Datecode.
( by expert-opinion, this is the BEST-console to-have, which-CAN actually-be-exploited. )

Click the "JOURNEY" Tab, at the top of the first post to read more about it. ;)
....... HERE .......
You can see my sticker in post #4, to see what youre looking for in the U.S. :D
 
Of course if you can get a compatible console from 2011 (year) then that is the "best" model technically as it has most chance of having least amount of use, and latest revisions of parts etc, (@UniqueUserName went the extra mile there literally :) ) but really any fromt he year 2010 date codes (0a 0b 0c 0d) should be considered too as the differences are minimal to none, and in theory you could get a console from 2011 that was hammered by a hardcore gamer in a dusty room and an older console from 2010 that was barely used in a clean room, so there are no guarantees either way. Personally I would recommend to look for slim from 2010 mainly as it will be easier to find and is basically guaranteed to be CFW compatible, if you come across a compatible Q1 2011 on the way then grab it.
 
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Do you realize how confusing is when you mix together in the same message years and PS3 models ?
When talking about 2010 and 2011 you mean the year when it was manufactured
But there is a PS3 model named CECH-20xx (the xx represents the region code), and i guess there are region codes with 10 and 11
So a CECH-2010 and CECH-2011 probably exists XD

The good PS3 models compatibles with a permanent cfw installation are the first PS3 slims... either CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx and CECH-25xx (in manufacturing order)
But in hardware quality manufacturing should be ordered inversed, CECH-25xx (best), CECH-21xx (second best), and CECH-20xx (third best)

The problem with CECH-25xx is some (the newest) are not compatible with a cfw installation, this is why with this model is very important to look at the datecode (a.k.a. manufacturing date), and also when you have the console at home you need to use the minverchk.pup that is going to tell you the minimal firmware available to install in it. If it tells the minimal is 3.60 then that PS3 doesnt allows for a permanent cfw installation

With CECH-21xx and CECH-20xx doesnt happens this problem because all them should be compatibles (was manufactured before CECH-25xx) so you can buy them without caring much, unless the seller made some frankenstein by using parts from a PS3 models and other parts from another PS3 model, this is hard to know and i dont even know if is posible to swap motherboards of all PS3 slims, but just incase is something needed to be mentioned
 
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Do you realize how confusing is when you mix together in the same message years and PS3 models ?
When talking about 2010 and 2011 you mean the year when it was manufactured
But there is a PS3 model named CECH-20xx (the xx represents the region code), and i guess there are region codes with 11 and 12
So a CECH-2010 and CECH-2011 probably exists XD

Oops, I see that now, I have edited my post to be clearer that I was only talking about the years/datecodes, not the model.
 
Oops, I see that now, I have edited my post to be clearer that I was only talking about the years/datecodes, not the model.
Is ok, i mentioned it because i needed to read your messge a couple of times until i realized, initially i was not getting it XD
 
After reading all of this maybe I should just try to fix my consoles lol.

Now that I was ready to buy...when I went on eBay the prices are higher than I initially thought.

Now I need to research where to buy a good E3. They are sold on eBay but I have no idea which ones might be fake.
 
They most likely are all fake. I got both mine on eBay, they are clones, but function is as good as the original.
 
Do you realize how confusing is when you mix together in the same message years and PS3 models ?
When talking about 2010 and 2011 you mean the year when it was manufactured
But there is a PS3 model named CECH-20xx (the xx represents the region code), and i guess there are region codes with 10 and 11
So a CECH-2010 and CECH-2011 probably exists XD

The good PS3 models compatibles with a permanent cfw installation are the first PS3 slims... either CECH-20xx, CECH-21xx and CECH-25xx (in manufacturing order)
But in hardware quality manufacturing should be ordered inversed, CECH-25xx (best), CECH-21xx (second best), and CECH-20xx (third best)

The problem with CECH-25xx is some (the newest) are not compatible with a cfw installation, this is why with this model is very important to look at the datecode (a.k.a. manufacturing date), and also when you have the console at home you need to use the minverchk.pup that is going to tell you the minimal firmware available to install in it. If it tells the minimal is 3.60 then that PS3 doesnt allows for a permanent cfw installation

With CECH-21xx and CECH-20xx doesnt happens this problem because all them should be compatibles (was manufactured before CECH-25xx) so you can buy them without caring much, unless the seller made some frankenstein by using parts from a PS3 models and other parts from another PS3 model, this is hard to know and i dont even know if is posible to swap motherboards of all PS3 slims, but just incase is something needed to be mentioned

I don't fully agree saying 2k5 is better than 2k1 that is better than 2k. Personally I prefer to have the BD logic board separated from Main board ;)
And is not always true that the most recent model is better than the oldest (that is true is it is always cheapest to produce for the manufacturer...).
Example : CECHCxx versus CECHGxx
 
I paid ~15-20$ for my standard E3 and ~35$ for my limited E3.

Check your pm. ;)[/QUOTE
Thank you so much

Feel so bad people spoon fed. These days I have so much anxiety I can't make decisions without almost getting sick
 
After reading all of this maybe I should just try to fix my consoles lol.
Its not really as complicated as it sounds... Ill simplify for you... ;) :)

The ONLY-thing anyone-in-USA needs-to-know, when-buying-a-PS3 to-use-with-"PS3Xploit", is this:

Only-buy-one-with a "Manufactured:" DATE = Equal-to / Less-than:
March 2011 ( OR OLDER !!!!! )


Information is located, on the bottom-line of Service-sticker, like MINE shown-here:
20171220_215853-jpg.10366

That is all... Enjoy!
Sorry to ask you to babysit me, but how much should I be paying for one of these
That is why we are all here, to learn and help others, so no reason to apologize... Glad to help! :D
No need to feel bad. The point of having a community is to help and get helped. ;) I was a total noob a few months ago, myself.
:eek: Im still there right now! ;)
 
I don't fully agree saying 2k5 is better than 2k1 that is better than 2k. Personally I prefer to have the BD logic board separated from Main board ;)
And is not always true that the most recent model is better than the oldest (that is true is it is always cheapest to produce for the manufacturer...).
Example : CECHCxx versus CECHGxx
The most important difference in that models is the RSX
In CECH-20xx is 65nm
In CECH-21xx and CECH-25xx is 45nm

Also, there are 4 main RAM chips (with 64mb each) in CECH-20xx, and only 2 (with 128mb each) in CECH-21xx and CECH-25xx

By doing this changes sony reduced the power consumption and temperatures, and as a consequence it allowed them to reduce the wattage of the power supply, from 221w to 197w

There are other changes such the LAN wifi/BT and other stuff i dont even remember right now, for an overview take a look at this tables where are listed the most important components for every PS3 model
http://www.psdevwiki.com/ps3/Talk:SKU_Models

---------------
Years ago when sony started manufacturing the motherboards for CECH-25xx with the bluray controller integrated in the main motherboard i thought like you... i did not like the idea of having that controller chip soldered in the motherboard because i remember very well the times of the PS2 when a laser pickup problem used to "blow up" components of the motherboard, that sucks (shame on you sony we will never forget it) and i was scared of that
But now it looks like a good idea, because in all this time i have not seen anyone ever reporting that problem in a CECH-25xx or newer models, it seems that part of the circuit is robust
As a benefit... in this boards there is no need to make any "remarry" if you change the bluray drive... actually you can remove the bluray drive completly and the PS3 will keep working normally (you can boot apps/games and there is no problem when installing firmwares)

---------------
Manufacturing quality of the Playstations (the whole familly) can be represented in a graphic by a curve with a belly
The electronics always improves making the board more efficient (and cheaper too) and reducing its size, and removing components that was not needed (such starship2 , usb hubs, intermediate voltage regulators, and other small components)
Also, most of the motherboards has "unpopulated" pads and duplicated tracks and rails because they are very conservative and produces lot of revisions, this things are constantly "cleaned up" to simplify the board, this is good when done well, (and they uses to do it well)
But what i said in this paragraph is only related with the motherboard... actually the motherboards of the superslims are better than the slims

The problems are the other components of the PS3, like the heatsink and fan, this is the biggest problem of the superslims, together with the excesive butchering made with the bluray and the ugly chasis, lol

---------------
I never liked the first PS3 models with partiall or full PS2 backward compatibility, i think it was a bad idea to integrate the GS/EE of the PS2 because this converted them in barbaques and the efficience is very low, with a power supply of 400 watts
Look at the PS4, the first model uses a power supply of 220 watts or so iirc, this was a nice start point (and later they ruined the efficience with the PS4 PRO, lol), and look at the newest intel and AMD APUs with 65 watts or less and are 14nm iirc and soon AMD is going to make the jump to 7nm technology (for the PS5, heheh) this is going to reduce a lot the power consumption, finally we are going to have consoles that doesnt makes noise like a yet engine and robust enought to not need to care about temperatures
So the evolution of technology was clear, but with the first PS3 models they was taking a diferent route, the problem they had at that time is they did not have ready a PS2 emulator made 100% by software, but in newer PS3 models there is one and seems to be good (when provided with accurate game configs, something sony did not made)
 
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The ONLY-thing anyone-in-USA needs-to-know, when-buying-a-PS3 to-use-with-"PS3Xploit", is this:

Only-buy-one-with a "Manufactured:" DATE = Equal-to / Less-than:
March 2011 ( OR OLDER !!!!! )

This is almost true, except you could get a console that is not compatible from Q1 2011, its hit and miss. That is the period when they introduced metldr2 and blocked CFW.

So to be 99.9% sure of being CFW compatible.

Only-buy-one-with a "Manufactured:" DATE = Equal-to / Less-than:
December 2010 ( OR OLDER !!!!! )

Even then there is a tiny chance of getting a refurbished console that has had the motherboard swapped, so it is a good idea to always check the minver before patching.

 
I think I have found an old phat for $30...that I can add a year warranty to for $8...

I will be very careful with this one and make sure I come back and ask before I do anything. I know phat is probably not the best way to go, but for the price and warranty I couldn't pass it up. If it fails within a year...square trade will more than likely just refund the purchase price.
 
What makes me so angry about the ps3 I bought brand new and am the origjnal owner of...is that I barely used it before it failed. We bought it to watch blu ray movies on...after realizing they were over rated...lol..then it just sat on the shelf powered off until I modded it...and then it overheated shortly after that. It's a shame that these boxes weren't made better..Guess I should research how to cool this one I just bought....so it doesn't die.
 
Well the used ps3 I just got in the mail from ebay...has error: 8002F1F9 when trying to update the firmware. Guessing it's the bluetooth or network chipset I guess. I guess if it seems to good to be true....it probably is...
 

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