RIP-Felix
Senior Member
I wouldn't exceed a board temperature of 100C (boiling point of water) while drying. If you do it creates steam pressure that can de-laminate layers of chips, popcorn caps, basically cause damage. The idea is to increase the rate of evaporation, not boil it! On my last board, I let it dry for about 2 hours @ 90-95C and it still wasn't enough to drive out the water. When I increased up to 150C to begin the preheat for the RSX pull, I noticed a stream of boiling liquid coming out of the die underfill! I think @squeept said the recommended minimum is like 4 hours.
So use a temperature sensor taped underneath the RSX. The setting on the preheater needed to get the board to 150-180C might be higher than it says. I started covering the entire board in aluminum foil. This reflects radiant heat from the topside back down, keeping the heat in, like baking a potato. It also insulates the board from the cool air above some. This way my unmodified preheater temperature and board temperature are actually pretty close. Most importantly it allows the board to heat evenly on bot sides, so it doesn't warp!
I just tape off a square hole around the RSX and place the second temperature probe next to the RSX. Then I cover it with a square of aluminum until I'm ready for the hot air nozzle.
So use a temperature sensor taped underneath the RSX. The setting on the preheater needed to get the board to 150-180C might be higher than it says. I started covering the entire board in aluminum foil. This reflects radiant heat from the topside back down, keeping the heat in, like baking a potato. It also insulates the board from the cool air above some. This way my unmodified preheater temperature and board temperature are actually pretty close. Most importantly it allows the board to heat evenly on bot sides, so it doesn't warp!
I just tape off a square hole around the RSX and place the second temperature probe next to the RSX. Then I cover it with a square of aluminum until I'm ready for the hot air nozzle.
