PS3 My fat CECHE01 gave me a YLOD but it is working fine right after

Discussion in 'General PS3 Discussion' started by Gabriel2Silva, May 11, 2019.

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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    NEC/TOKIN wants to know your location
    I dont have the Last Of Us here to test it,but ive heard of something related with the 60Gbs, something like SPU related issue, same can be said for Gran Turismo 6 and Tekken Tag Tournament 2, when i get the chance ill test them.
     
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    umart666

    umart666 Senior Member

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    i'm liking how clean this looks,i really dont think i can be this clean with soldering iron:



    yeah,i know nec's on the ps3 are much tougher to unsolder than these caps on the macs,but i'm tempted to buy the heatgun for cleanliness sake.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Well thats up to you mate, i personally prefer the Soldering Iron, you can get a clean solder with the iron as well, as long you do it right and carefully.

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    Gabriel2Silva

    Gabriel2Silva Forum Noob

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    SPU related? Isn't that a CPU thing?
    So is this a problem inherent to CECHE models? Like, you're unable to play these games on this model?
     
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    Gabriel2Silva

    Gabriel2Silva Forum Noob

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    By the way, a quick update about my situation with the CECHE01:

    It did not YLOD again, not even once. It turns on normally.
    Games I've tested:

    Monster Hunter Portable 3rd HD Ver (PSP Remaster): 8 hours of gameplay. No crashes. Max temp 61ºC.
    Metal Gear Solid 2 HD Edition: 35 minutes of gameplay. No crashes, but when exiting the game through XMB, I had a black screen. Holding down the Power button turned it off with 3 beeps. No other issues but this never happened before. Max temp 61ºC.
    The Last of Us: 30 minutes of gameplay, crashed the PS3 with 3 beeps and blinking red light until I touched the Power button again. Crash happened at the prologue section when a gas station exploded. Max temp 61ºC but fans were at 95% speed.
    XMB (idle): 4 hours of idling, no issues. Max temp 61ºC, as always.

    Gotta find some new games to test but I'm scared to screw up the NEC TOKIN capacitors even more while doing so.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Something like this? But no i dont think its a SPE issue,but it can well be the case,but only a full capacitor replacement can point out if its the SPE or the NECs, although my money its on the NECs, only with a sealed unit fresh out of the box, you could blame the SPEs, with a used unit, its kind of hard to point out.

     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    Have you desoldered the tokins from factory already ?, how you did it with hot air ?, and it was tricky ?
    Hope the repair goes well, now you have a bag of tantalum capacitors like candies so is going to be a complete replacement of them :)

    Please if you make a tutorial prepare a drawing with that trace you mentioned that connects both sides of the tokin
    In some way, i have the same doubt as @xxxmarioxxx by looking at the photos and schematics of the people that posted his "fixes" in the brazilian forum it seems some solders the capacitors in a position and other people solders them flipped, and some uses wires to "bridge" them

    In the drawing i made here for psx-place forum where we was discussing all that circuits i made it the most simple posible way, but i never tested it by myself
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Mate, are doubting my skills of soldering?

    But in all seriousness, i have changed them 2 days ago, like i mentioned, i went to the 470uF 6.3V this time, works like charm.

    For now, only on of the 7 NECs was replaced with tantalums, i intended to replace more further down the line, but with this busy schedule, it's kind of hard.

    Anyhow, getting rid of the NECs its fairly easy, i removed them out cold (Knife Murder Technique)

    But if you are going to remove them, without any heat, be extra careful with the traces on the mainboard, once they are removed, clean the NEC traces with the soldering iron, and apply clean solder on the traces, after that simply solder the tantalums in they're respective positions.

    I never solder them flipped with the metal contacts upwards, always down, with the indications facing upwards, always at about 65° Angle between the two, gives you room and ensures they have a proper contact.

    Ive also seen like you mention, that some lads put a wire to bridge the tantalum connections, or a jumper, but i don't think that particularly necessary, as it worked for me without the jumper, maybe if you replace the NECs completely, it needs a external jumper between the NECs, but ill add that to the guide as well, although i didn't tested once with a jumper, and it didn't do nothing, first time it got smoke, second time it did nothing.

    Ill write a complete and extensive guide, on how to diagnose, remove and install the tantalum Capacitors.

    I saw my obsession with the NECs and why, i don't assume its a Faulty PSU, mate, believe me, i have 4 working APS-227 PSUs, and none of them fixed my issue, when the original NECs were still there, and Sony does not make crappy quality PSUs, those things are almost bulletproof.

    Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
     
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    sandungas

    sandungas Moderator Developer

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    The other day i was searching in gogle about some PS3 parts and coincidentially i was looking at a photo with lot of tantalum capacitors... then i took a look at the url and realized i was in the brazilian forum :D
    It was a photo with lot of tantalum capacitors placed in diagonal, and soldered to the lines of the tokins (after removing the tokins)
    It had 2 light blue wires (if i remember right connecting vin with vout)
    I guessed the tantalums could be placed beter aligned if you scratch the green varnish around to make the soldering area bigger

    So yeah, i got what you mean by soldering the tantalums in the place of the tokins in diagonal, and covering later with tape, thats a good repair :)

    And as mentioned, is not good enought by replacing only one of the tokins, because are working in group
    Using cars as example... is like if you have an old car with the 4 tyres damaged doing vibrations and you only replace one tyre... after some time the new tyre will be damaged and you are back at step one

    In the PS3 is needed to consider half of the tokins are used for CELL... and the other half for the RSX
    So you need to replace half of them (either for CELL or for RSX)
    But if you consider some of them was damaged... is better to replace all them because the others for sure have some wear
    Again using cars as example... if you have 2 tyres damaged most probably the other 2 are not good either

    For the value of the tantalum capacitors, this doesnt have mch importance really, the new ones needs to have the same or bigger capacitance than the originals
    For PS3 fat every tokin is 1200uf... and for PS3 slims 1000uf... so try to find the cheapest/easyest tantalum capacitors you find either in a local store or online
    And try to find one of that announces that sells "a bag of them"... 20 or 30 or 50 tantalum capacitors, like candies for 10€ free shipping

    If you buy capacitors with 330uf...
    For a slim you need 3 * 330uf = 990uf, this is a bit smaller than the factory value, but is fine, you should not worry
    For a fat you need 4 * 330uf = 1320uf, this is a bit bigger than the factory value, actually is "better than factory", so is an improvement, lol
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
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    Gabriel2Silva

    Gabriel2Silva Forum Noob

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    Crashed with God of War III after 45 minutes of gameplay. Fans were loud but max temp was 64ºC. Exactly the same crash as TLOU, sudden shutdown, three beeps, red LED blinks.
     
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    umart666

    umart666 Senior Member

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    if i were you i'd first eliminate psu as a culprit,as it's fairly cheap and can be found pretty easily.you can try to find a good professional locally,good test to see how good is he is to ask does he change caps,if he has all the tools for that it's pretty much guaranteed that he knows his stuff.
     
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    Gabriel2Silva

    Gabriel2Silva Forum Noob

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    By the way, is there any remote possibility that these crashes are caused by the high fan speed? I don't know, maybe something related to the energy required to bump up the fans?

    It always happens when the fan speed is at jet plane levels. I can play Monster Hunter Portable 3rd for 8 straight hours and the console stays at the same temperature range but with a much lower fan speed and it doesn't crash. It only crashed when the fans went nuts on TLOU and GOW3.

    I may be tripping, I don't know, that's why I'm asking. Tell me what you guys think.
     
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    umart666

    umart666 Senior Member

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    that's why i'm suggesting to check psu,it could be due to high power draw,caps failing or RSX issues.first two possibilities is easily fixed,rsx problems not so much.also,if you're measuring temps while in xmb ps3 at high fan speeds could cool down to that temperature in time you exit the game and go to xmb/wemban to see it.temps at xmb aren't indicative of anything,only relevant temp are ingame,and inabout 20-30 min in with serious rsx pushing.
     
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    Gabriel2Silva

    Gabriel2Silva Forum Noob

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    Mine is a APS-226, which is the recommended PSU on ps3devwiki. I think it's not a PSU problem, to be honest, but I'll look forward to do some more tests. Maybe leaving the fans at 100% for 30 minutes to 1 hour on Control Fan Utility can do the trick? That would rule out the RSX and its caps I think.

    Also, to @sandungas, I was reading your older posts regarding NEC/TOKIN capacitors and I found this:
    [​IMG]

    Also some dude tried using this schematic:
    [​IMG]

    Is this really a thing? I mean, does it work? Because I'm not an expert with soldering and it looks really difficult for me to remove the tokins and then solder new tantalums in their place especially cause the area to work with is so limited and small. I'm honestly insecure. This method looks way easier.
     
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    umart666

    umart666 Senior Member

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    no,it will not,temps have nothing to do with caps ability to hold and supply enough current to the chips.you can torture your fan as much as you like,but it won't resolve your issues,you will only degrade it faster,and sooner you will need a replacement fan also.
     
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Heat has nothing to do with the Caps! Are you sure about that? Ill leave the rest for you to solve this riddle,because i already know the answer :)
     
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    umart666

    umart666 Senior Member

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    well,not at that level that simply turning the fan to 100 percent will resolve the issue if it's due to caps,don't be that literal. :)
     
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    jcorrea

    jcorrea PSX-Place Supporter

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    Why don't you consider that it's a bad PSU? Fan spinning to fast to keep temps under 60~64 uses more power. The PSU maybe suffering of "capacitor aging", I think it's better to try with an other PSU first.

    Edit: You can just try to "loosen up" the fan's speed, putting temps on 68~70 and stress it again. Not sure if you already did it, but I think you should just give it a try.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
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    Naked_Snake1995

    Naked_Snake1995 Senior Member

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    Meanwhile at Naked_Snake´s HQ

    1dkddp.jpg
     
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    jcorrea

    jcorrea PSX-Place Supporter

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    I'm not sure about "heating caps" is the main problem, but I'm sure about capacitor aging and PSU's. It happens when the PSU is old. He also can try to put an ATX PSU (I already saw it on another thread).

    Edit1: I found it:
    https://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-connect-atx-power-supply-to-ps3.17180/

    Edit2: Sorry, not sure if that applies to your PS3 model.

    Edit3: I just read the other posts, I really think it's a PSU problem.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
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