PS3 My fat CECHE01 gave me a YLOD but it is working fine right after

jcorrea said:
I'm not sure about "heating caps" is the main problem, but I'm sure about capacitor aging and PSU's. It happens when the PSU is old. He also can try to put an ATX PSU (I already saw it on another thread).

Edit1: I found it:
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-connect-atx-power-supply-to-ps3.17180/

Edit2: Sorry, not sure if that applies to your PS3 model.

Edit3: I just read the other posts, I really think it's a PSU problem.
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Edit 1: Takes a post from Naked_Snake1995 to teach Naked_Snake1995.

Edit 2: Tested 10 PSUs the problem persisted, if the PSU was dead,the PS3 would even boot!

Edit 3: No its not a PSU issue, because these PSUs arent cheap crap like "cough cough Mamãesoft cough cough" :)

Edit 4: Mate, get this, the PS3 its burning inside,when you bought it brand new, the more you use the more the caps loose theyre capacitance,simple as that!

Remember the CECHK and L Models when the PS3 would have premature YLOD, and everyone was pointing fingers to the PSU,when in reality it wasnt? I sure do

Conclusion back to square zero,but at least give this man a round of applause for trying.

tenor.gif
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Edit 1: Takes a post from Naked_Snake1995 to teach Naked_Snake1995.

Edit 2: Tested 10 PSUs the problem persisted, if the PSU was dead,the PS3 would even boot!

Edit 3: No its not a PSU issue, because these PSUs arent cheap crap like "cough cough Mamãesoft cough cough" :)

Conclusion back to square zero,but at least give this man a round of applause for trying.

View attachment 17913
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Don't be rude. I was not trying to teach you anything, I was just trying to help. Writing like this you are just being disrespectful.
 
jcorrea said:
Don't be rude. I was not trying to teach you anything, I was just trying to help. Writing like this you are just being disrespectful.
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You are absolutely right, my apologies, this topic its getting so out of hand that my brain its getting a midlife crisis, with all this PSU talk

Tell you what, you advise a PSU replacement, i advise a capacitor replacement, let him do both and test them, to see if at least we get to the bottom of this case
 
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jcorrea said:
I'm not sure about "heating caps" is the main problem, but I'm sure about capacitor aging and PSU's. It happens when the PSU is old. He also can try to put an ATX PSU (I already saw it on another thread).

Edit1: I found it:
https://www.psx-place.com/threads/tutorial-connect-atx-power-supply-to-ps3.17180/

Edit2: Sorry, not sure if that applies to your PS3 model.

Edit3: I just read the other posts, I really think it's a PSU problem.
Click to expand...
Interesting. Replacing a power supply is definitely easier than replacing SMD capacitors. I'm still blaming the TOKINs though. What exactly makes you think it's a PSU issue? I can try to get a compatible model with my CECHE variant although it would be kind of a pain tbh.

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Gabriel2Silva said:
Interesting. Replacing a power supply is definitely easier than replacing SMD capacitors. I'm still blaming the TOKINs though. What exactly makes you think it's a PSU issue? I can try to get a compatible model with my CECHE variant although it would be kind of a pain tbh.

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APS-226 or APS-231,both will work,but i am 99.97% confident that the issue will presist,but you can always try :)

Brasil uses 110V as the US,if so APS-226 its your only choice, 231 its Bi-Volt, meaning it supports both 110~220V without a need of a stepdown convertor.
 
Gabriel2Silva said:
This gives me some hope. It makes sense for it not to be a BGA related problem - the console itself has a max temperature of 60ºC setup by webman-MOD, that's incredibly low if you ask me. My Super Slim can reach 75ºC idling on the XMB, lol, so I think it is normal for the PS3 to reach very high temperatures and to be OK with it.

I was playing since I made this post, paused to get something to eat and now came back, it is still up and running with no YLOD nor any other problem. It's like nothing happened. I'm no expert at this but I think that if it was a BGA problem then it would be dead by now. I know BGA related problems can be unpredictable but what you're saying makes perfect sense to me.

Do you have the exact specifications on these capacitors? Are they hard to replace? I have no problem with soldering except when it comes to SMD parts.

Thanks for giving me hope :D
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No these capacitors arent hard to repalce, you simply need to desolder the old NEC and replace them with 4 Tantalums for each NEC, i advise you to get 470uF at 2.5V,but 6.3V works as well, make sure they are rated not operational voltage :)

If you are unsure you can get the NECs off,solder the Tantalums in parallel, into they´re respective connection points, works as well, although ive removed mine completely, replace just one, or ask a professional to do it, if you are still afraid, dont forget to isolate it with electical tape :)

If you solder in parallel, the end result should be something like this.

tumblr_od4awh9UdO1vftfyjo1_1280.jpg
 
@Naked_Snake1995 you are getting obsesed with the tokins as i mentioned in other post :P
@jcorrea is right, the PSU's wears out with the use, actually what they does is to lower his output watts, as example in a PC PSU if it was originally 700W after some years of use it will be 600W
There is also an effect named "voltage riddle" and interferences that makes all power lines unestables and causes random power cuts
Also, the capacitors inside the PSU (sometimes this can be verifyed visually because becomes "bulky", explodes at top, of leaks acid at bottom)
So... is needed to check the PSU first... and the only easy way to do it is by replacing it

@Gabriel2Silva take a read at the link to connect an ATX PSU to the PS3... it needs some tweaking of wires (and be careful to not make shorts) but is easy and is "free" because is just a temporal test, you can take the ATX PSU from other PC you have at home temporally

The fan speed you are using is insane... it has been confusing me since your first posts of this thread, you said you was running it at 95% or 100% speed ?... im imagining the PS3 levitating like a quadcopter !!!
With that fan speeds is hard to get an idea of what is happening in CELL/RSX, and your temperature meassures could be erroneous

The first test you should do is to configure the fan speed into some normal speed... and report back the CELL/RSX temperatures in different workload scenarios (all them starting from ambient)
-idle in xmb after 15 minutes
-idle inside a low graphics workload game (or inside a homebrew, there are some that displays the temperature on real time, so you can take notes in a .txt) after 30 minutes
-full graphic load inside a game while triggering the "temperature peaks" (GTAV with a waterbike navigating in circles and spinning the camera in the opposite direction... or... the last of us in the only 2 areas of the game with water)
 
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That photo of the "fix" is superclean :encouragement: but there are a couple of solder points that are risky
6RjoU0R.jpg

In the other solder points doesnt happens that, but in that corner there is a voltage line too much close to the ground layer... the only thing that "isolates" one from the other is the painted green layer of epoxy/varnish
If you use a multimeter you could check if are touching the other... but anyway... i dont like it at all, personally i would not afford that risk

Instead of that... not sure what i would do, maybe an small wire or place the tantalum cap on top of the tokin and create like a "colum" with the solder "ball"
 
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sandungas said:
@Naked_Snake1995 you are getting obsesed with the tokins as i mentioned in other post [emoji14]
@jcorrea is right, the PSU's wears out with the use, actually what they does is to lower his output watts, as example in a PC PSU if it was originally 700W after some years of use it will be 600W
There is also an effect named "voltage riddle" and interferences that makes all power lines unestables and causes random power cuts
Also, the capacitors inside the PSU (sometimes this can be verifyed visually because becomes "bulky", explodes at top, of leaks acid at bottom)
So... is needed to check the PSU first... and the only easy way to do it is by replacing it

@Gabriel2Silva take a read at the link to connect an ATX PSU to the PS3... it needs some tweaking of wires (and be careful to not make shorts) but is easy and is "free" because is just a temporal test, you can take the ATX PSU from other PC you have at home temporally

The fan speed you are using is insane... it has been confusing me since your first posts of this thread, you said you was running it at 95% or 100% speed ?... im imagining the PS3 levitating like a quadcopter !!!
With that fan speeds is hard to get an idea of what is happening in CELL/RSX, and your temperature meassures could be erroneous

The first test you should do is to configure the fan speed into some normal speed... and report back the CELL/RSX temperatures in different workload scenarios (all them starting from ambient)
-idle in xmb after 15 minutes
-idle inside a low graphics workload game (or inside a homebrew, there are some that displays the temperature on real time, so you can take notes in a .txt) after 30 minutes
-full graphic load inside a game while triggering the "temperature peaks" (GTAV with a waterbike navigating in circles and spinning the camera in the opposite direction... or... the last of us in the only 2 areas of the game with water)
Click to expand...
I'm using webman-MOD dynamic fan control. That's a CECHE01 unit whose thermal grease was replaced for CoolerMaster Extreme Fusion X1 3 to 4 years ago.

In the dynamic fan control settings, I've selected 64°C to be the max temperature. So webman tries to maintain these values but sometimes and notoriously in some specific games the fans does go nuts in order to do so. The Last of Us is the prime example here. In that game, during the prologue screen with car crashes, explosions and lots of character models, the fan speeds does in fact reach 95%. And yes, the PS3 looks like a jet plane taking off, but still, the temperatures stay in the 64°C I've setup. It isn't like it's running at 95% all the time, it only reaches this kind of number in TLOU and in other games it stays on the 50~60% mark. It is still loud, but not nearly as loud as 95%. I can take it.

I could definitely disable the dynamic fan control and let SYSCON control my fans, but I'm honestly scared to do so since without the fan control my temperatures go all the way up to 75°C. This doesn't look safe to me, especially on a early phat model like mine. I'm confident that without the fan control it'll reach absurd levels of heat in no time, and I can't even imagine how absurd it would get in a game like TLOU that likes to strangle my console.

I am in fact curious to see if letting SYSCON do its thing to my fans will actually make the system run stable. Hotter, but stable. There is definitely some correlation between the fan speed and the crashes here, because like I've said, they happened when the fans were at their loudest. In GOW3 they weren't even close to 95% but it still crashed when they were at their loudest.

Also, repeating what I've said before, in a much less demanding game for the GPU and probably the CPU (Monster Hunter Portable 3rd, a PSP Remaster game) it NEVER crashes. The fan speeds on this game never goes beyond 40% though. In Metal Gear Solid 2 HD Edition it also didn't crash, but the fans also did not ever went beyond the 40~45% mark. It's only on these games notorious for making your PS3 fans scream that it happens.

I'll try to find another PSU. There's a dude near my house that used to service video-game consoles, there's a possibility that he has a YLOD'd or even working phat PS3. In fact I know he does, I just hope it's one of the models that share the PSU my CECHE can use.

I honestly still think it's a TOKIN problem, but because it is the most difficult and intrusive step to do, I'll try to rule out the easy things first, like changing the PSU.

Thanks again for all your help.

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i wouldn't even rule out that just because you've set that fan profile system didn't overheat and shut itself off,and clearly all heating problems you'll solve by deliding.if that friend is or was decent repair man he should be able to delid it pretty easily.caps changing is more advanced repair,and i'd try to find a really good professional for that.
 
umart666 said:
i wouldn't even rule out that just because you've set that fan profile system didn't overheat and shut itself off,and clearly all heating problems you'll solve by deliding.if that friend is or was decent repair man he should be able to delid it pretty easily.caps changing is more advanced repair,and i'd try to find a really good professional for that.
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I can delid too. I actually remember having delidded the GPU on this very same PS3. I was a starter at that time and I can't remember if my thermal paste installation was correct, though, especially below the RSX IHS. I should try repasting it in the near future.

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that would be my first thing to check,before anything else.it's crucial to use best thermal compound possible especially between the chip itself and IHS.
 
@sandungas

Tried disabling webman dynamic fan control setting. SYSCON ran my fans at 20% and the console quickly built up to 72°C on the Cell by idling at the XMB. I'm starting to think there's something wrong with my thermal paste installation in the past. Is it normal for a first generation fat to run THIS hot by doing nothing on the XMB?

By the way, the Cell is way hotter than the RSX. When idling at the XMB (SYSCON fans) the RSX stays cool at the 60°C range. Cell goes nuts and I know that if I didn't shut it down it would've reached 80°C lol. That's not safe

Now I don't remember having delidded the Cell, especially because it's freaking hard to do so. I'm also not willing to do it, and if I really need to, I would use some kind of fishing line in order to saw the IHS glue.

By the way, something funny happened and the console gave me the three beep flashing red light crash by saving my webman options and doing the webman soft restart. It was like, I saved my settings, webman gui gave me the "restart" option, and as soon as I clicked, the console gave me three blinking red lights like all the other crashes I had.

It booted fine right after.

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Keep in mind that it was the first time after replacing my thermal paste that this console has reached such high temperatures. Even though it always ran at insane fan speeds, especially when gaming, it never went beyond the 68°C mark. So even if it has a bad thermal paste installation, it shouldn't have suffered from heat damage. At least that's what my common sense says.

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cell can withstand bigger temps,rsx is critical,anything beyound 68c is known to be very bad for the chip.nobody can tell you exact issue by that symptoms only,it could very be due to temps,caps,psu,software or combination of those things.all you can do is eliminate one by one and give that systems some maintenance.

and yes,you have high temps more than usual,if i remember correctly my cechc before delid was in 60's idle and was cooking in games and that was well worn out system.
 
Repasted it. Thermal grease installation was fine. Very well applied I would say.

Cleaned and changed the paste in both chips, then below the RSX IHS (the IHS came out by itself when pulling the fan from the motherboard). Quality compound - CoolerMaster Mastergel Maker Nano.

What's happening now:
It boots. Green light, then webman loads (yellow light from webman blinks). REBUG logo shows. Fans keep going increasingly loud really fast, then the console shows the YLOD, beeps three times and blinks red.

What could've gone wrong? Not a BGA problem because the console boots. The fans kick out and it goes loud, then it YLODs before I can even choose my profile.

EDIT:

Not my video, but this is pretty much what happens. It boots and show video normally, it just YLODs before I can choose my profile.
 
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Gabriel2Silva said:
Repasted it. Thermal grease installation was fine. Very well applied I would say.

Cleaned and changed the paste in both chips, then below the RSX IHS (the IHS came out by itself when pulling the fan from the motherboard). Quality compound - CoolerMaster Mastergel Maker Nano.

What's happening now:
It boots. Green light, then webman loads (yellow light from webman blinks). REBUG logo shows. Fans keep going increasingly loud really fast, then the console shows the YLOD, beeps three times and blinks red.

What could've gone wrong? Not a BGA problem because the console boots. The fans kick out and it goes loud, then it YLODs before I can even choose my profile.
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That means the IHS are not properly aligned, its quite a pain in the arse to align,but its fairly easy once you get the hang of it, align it with the heatsink, not with the CPU or the GPU.

Watch for any burn marks on the Heatsinks, it should be a square line, you want to align them precisely, and you put it back on, try not to move the heatsink too much, one little bump,and its back to square zero :)
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
That means the IHS are not properly aligned, its quite a pain in the arse to align,but its fairly easy once you get the hang of it, align it with the heatsink, not with the CPU or the GPU.

Watch for any burn marks on the Heatsinks, it should be a square line, you want to align them precisely, and you put it back on, try not to move the heatsink too much, one little bump,and its back to square zero :)
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Thanks for the quick reply. I was kinda panicking. I really hope that is the issue. Will disassemble the console and be back in 30min max.
 
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