PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

[demetris]

So I stumbled across this fix on you tube by a user my mate vince. I have a modded cecha unit that developed the ylod a year ago so i dug it out and did the 2 rsx chips on the top of the board first. Bingo.. came to life. Let the kids play motorstorm(which ever one is split screen) for hours.. no hiccups. I went to test another random game and 5 minutes in got beep and shutdown with flashing red light. Tried again and same result. So i then tore it back down and did the 2 cell chips on the top of the board and now im back to ylod.TRore it down checked soldering... tested a few things with ohm meter and soldiered in a jumper wire on the cell... same thing. Any ideas.. thanks!

Replace the capacitors with brand new ones. Looks like you have some that are faulty

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[SiegHart93]

Yeah I forgot to mention tryed everything I could think of (no hdd, no dvd, no wifi/bluetooth, any combination of all of those etc.), nothing gets it to give video or audio. One thing I didn't try is to connect the controller and now that I tryed it doesn't seem to put anything to usb ports. Controller doesn't respond at all when I plug it in and than turn on the console. BTW the console model nimber is CECHG04 and the tantalums are the exact same ones my mate vince used in that video this other guy was mentioning.

Try to do a reflow on the rsx with a heat gun set to 360º in a lapse of 3mins and 20 secs. I was experiencing that kind of issue with a PS3 Slim CECH 3001b that suddenly stopped showing any image to the tv just a weird artifacts plus the controller didn't respond. The fix was a reflow.

 

[oliver76]

I put 4 470 6.3v per chip removed.. gor a total of 16 0n the top of the board

 

[marciolsf]

Progress update: Turns out that out of the 7 tantalums I had installed on the top side of the rsx (4 in one slot, and 3 on the other), I had one backwards! With my heart full of hope, I remove that sucker (I'm getting really good at surface mount by now), turn it around... And nothing.

Not one to give up, I Jerry-rig a board with 3 electrolytic caps rating 1500uf/6.3v each, in PARALLEL (Edit: previously said serial, my bad) , wire it along with the now properly installed tantalum... And nothing. I included a picture of the board, but not of it installed. I did verify I had continuity.

If I made my math correctly, 7 tantalums = 3390uf. With the electrolytic caps, that's an extra 4500uf, for a whopping 7790uf on the rsx. The four original proadlizers provided a total of 4800uf (1200uf per proadlizer, according to the data sheet), so I nearly doubled that. I guess I could do the same on the cell side, but I don't feel super confident that it'll actually do anything.

One idea I could try is move one of the tantalums from the rsx (since there's so much overkill there) and add it to the cell set, so that I have 4 there, instead of just 3.

Here's another question -- how have you been people been testing for shorts, other than visually inspecting? Just installing the caps creates continuity, so I'm not sure that I haven't actually shorted something.

 

[demetris]

When you place a capacitor in wrong order usually it explodes when you run a current over it. Being a tantalum it didn't but i would throw that in the trash bin if i was in your place. Consider it faulty.

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[eddo_tz]

How many tans cap did you put on the board?

4 each so 8 total.

 

[Dark Paladin]

Signed up just to state that I will be attempting this on my YLOD A01 as well. I have been reading through the thread and wanted to say thanks to everyone that have contributed to this working theory.

Coming from a technical background I find the information presented thus far to be more believable than just a matter of reflow/reball.

My caps from Aliexpress should be here at the end of the month, so I'll post more once I start on my own repairs.

 

[Manp]

So I just registered to share my experience...

got 4 broken fat PS3s from ebay, 3 CECHC04 and another non BC one, and started working on 2 of the BC units.
All 4 are giving a YOLD after a couple of seconds.

I started replacing the NECs using a soldering iron (after using hot air to get rid of the NECs) and was pretty confident in my soldering job but none of the two was working.

At one point i decided to use hor air to install the new tantalums by firmly pressing them down while working the hot air around the area, and then touching up the contacts with the iron after i was done with hot air.
To be honest, at this point the job didn't look all that better but I thought... what the hell lets try anyway...

and baam, both booted up just fine! green light!

now i have 2 BC fatties that seems to work!
Olny thing left is install an hard drive in both and fix the blu ray drive since it seems both have a stuck disc inside... and hope they are stable...


so, thanks a lot OP!!!!

 

[marciolsf]

Signed up just to state that I will be attempting this on my YLOD A01 as well. I have been reading through the thread and wanted to say thanks to everyone that have contributed to this working theory.

Coming from a technical background I find the information presented thus far to be more believable than just a matter of reflow/reball.

My caps from Aliexpress should be here at the end of the month, so I'll post more once I start on my own repairs.

Welcome to the party! looking forward to hear how things turn out.

 

[Manp]

So it seems both my blu ray drives are stuck in a laser tray up but no disc in the drive situation. I fixed one by putting in a disc with the drive cover disassembled. Now it takes in discs smoothly and they spin fine but the console can't see the disc at all. No signs of drive activity on the dashboard at all.

i think i probably got confused while reassembling and put the wrong drives in. I'll try swapping them around and see if it works.
i was under the impression that if the laser is toasted the disc shouldn't keep spinning.

other than that both consoles seems to be doing fine as far as stability goes. I still have to try games tho...

 

[Manp]

Fixed both drive and swapped them between the two consoles.

now i've tested TLOU un both. One seems stable, the other seems to always crash to a YLOD and then to a blinking red light once it goes in game.

which one do you think should be the most likely culprit? CELL or RSX?

i must add that on this one i replaced two NECs on both RSX and Cell for a total of 8 tantalums on both (why? Idk)

TIA

 

[Naked_Snake1995]

Fixed both drive and swapped them between the two consoles.

now i've tested TLOU un both. One seems stable, the other seems to always crash to a YLOD and then to a blinking red light once it goes in game.

which one do you think should be the most likely culprit? CELL or RSX?

i must add that on this one i replaced two NECs on both RSX and Cell for a total of 8 tantalums on both (why? Idk)

TIA

RSX, for TLoU is always the RSX.

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[Manp]

RSX, for TLoU is always the RSX.

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thanks man, much appreciated!

I'll try redoing the soldering on the RSX side.. I already have 8 470 microF tantalums in there. It would seems enough to me, so I think bad connections would be the cause of the YLOD. if that fails i'll swap more NECs.

Thanks again for this thread

 

[helltoast]

is there a point to preemptively replace the necs if they're working? and also what's the best way to go about removing them? heat or a knife?

I have a cheap soldering + heat gun station but the consensus seems to be that they do more damage than good. on the other hand I'm afraid to rip the pads with a knife.

 

[demetris]

is there a point to preemptively replace the necs if they're working? and also what's the best way to go about removing them? heat or a knife?

I have a cheap soldering + heat gun station but the consensus seems to be that they do more damage than good. on the other hand I'm afraid to rip the pads with a knife.

If they work fine i suggest to leave them alone.
You remove the top part with a sharp flat object first since is the cover made of plastic.
Then you go as seen fit as there is no right or wrong way here.

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[helltoast]

what about these cheap heat guns/stations? are they ok to use?

and I know there's no consensus but what's a good operating temperature to avoid the solder from becoming brittle over time?

 

[Edwired]

I say low fan speed and higher heat if you are using hot air station trick is to slide the nec tokin back and forth a few times then pull it off like a L pattern that way the solder on the board be flat not bumpy looking so it be easier to place the tan caps on also a low melting solder like chipquik to avoid any more damage when soldering the new tan caps this way you can line up the first pad without too much of the mess when using crap solder that takes ages to melt

 

[mugininja]

Hi Guys,

I'm planning to buy tantalum capacitor.
is there any difference between 2.5v with 2.5vdc as per spec stated?

which one is compatible? 2.5v or 2.5 vdc?

 

[Manp]

so that one console that was stable while playing TLOU went back to YLOD on boot no crashes, no freezes... at one point i turned it off and would YLOD on powering it on...
what's my best oprion? redo the work on the RSX tantalums? replace more NECs on RSX (2 were already replaced)? start replacing NECs on Cell? trow everything in the trash?

thanks

 

[SiegHart93]

so that one console that was stable while playing TLOU went back to YLOD on boot no crashes, no freezes... at one point i turned it off and would YLOD on powering it on...
what's my best oprion? redo the work on the RSX tantalums? replace more NECs on RSX (2 were already replaced)? start replacing NECs on Cell? trow everything in the trash?

thanks

Just replace all NECs on the top of the board (in where RSX and CELL are not present), and leave the NECs on bottom for a 50% NECs and 50% Tantalums, that worked for me and all the PS3 i did the replacement are working just fine since that, no crashes on any games even in the most demanding like TLOU, God of War Ascension, Bioshock Infinite, GT 6, Uncharted 3, etc. I had one PS3 that first i replaced the NECs of the RSX and i leaved the ones on the CELL and it worked fine until i tried to play Tekken Tag 2, so after that i just opened again that PS3 and i just replaced the ones in the CELL and that did the magic , after that i can play Tekken Tag 2 just fine and every single PS2 and PS3 game. Good Luck replacing the necs dude