pure3d2
Member
This guy used electrolytic caps and they worked, but he replaced them with tantalums in a later video:
PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD
- Thread starter Naked_Snake1995
- Start date
This guy used electrolytic caps and they worked, but he replaced them with tantalums in a later video:
Luisile
Member
Ok guys i have at home currently an 2004b with delayed ylod. i dissassemblend it and preheated the gpu necs with heatgun. on cpu there are not nec so dont worry about that. i assembled it again and the bloody thing wors for now. so question is should i change the two necs on gpu side or under?
Then don't use fake or badly made capacitors as this guy. Personally i only use Panasonic's Rubicon's Nippons and NCC as a replacement capacitors. Everything else is a gamble with luck.
So as a general rule dont go cheap or go home.
Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
Yes by your report changing the tokins will fix it. Do the ones that are easier to remove with less small parts around to knock off.
Στάλθηκε από το POCOPHONE F1 μου χρησιμοποιώντας Tapatalk
SiegHart93
Member
Indeed dude change the 2 necs on the board where rsx and cell are not present ! that should fix ur problem inmediately
Well, it depends. I bought it with the factory seal intact, so, no one before me reflowed. However, as I had no succes whatsoever, I tried to at least heat up the area a bit, up to 200 °C, but not for very long, I gave the idea up pretty quickly. If it wont help to solder these 20 tantalum caps, I will try to reball the RSX I guess :/
I have three C02 phats and they all have 1 second or instant YLOD, on one the GPU HIS was removed and the GPU is clearly fried brown, but the other two have their HIS on, they were all previously opened unfortunatly, I don't think recapping will fix this? What are the common causes of 1 second or instant YLOD?
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blckbear_
Developer
I recently purchased a CECHG unit and it YLoDs instantly, the unit has been opened before.
It still has all the NECs, so I'm hoping that's the issue, but it also has the back grills molten as if someone attempted the hairdryer method before. If anyone that knows best could tell me their opinion I'd really appreciate it, thanks!
It still has all the NECs, so I'm hoping that's the issue, but it also has the back grills molten as if someone attempted the hairdryer method before. If anyone that knows best could tell me their opinion I'd really appreciate it, thanks!
Yeah, thats the plan
Can I reball with hot-air-gun? I don't have anything else. Well, a heatgun, but, not an adjustable one. And a soldering iron, but this isn't suitable either.
2 - 3 second.
It's been a long time since I had to do the math on something like this, but I'm guessing those electrolytics essentially aren't even in the circuit at the switching frequency when they're half and half like that. If bad TOKIN caps were actually the issue, it worked because he removed the bad TOKIN caps, not because he added the new parts.
My sample size is now 2, but it's the only 2 that I would call confirmed. Heating the caps does nothing, and heating the chips can easily do something. At best the heat test is meaningless, at worst it means you have a chip or BGA issue. I'm going to continue screaming that point until someone else with a scope says differently. Or someone can show me any documentation anywhere of a polymer cap coming back to life from heat.
There's a $40 standalone scope on aliexpress. There's a $60 USB scope on Amazon. Just buy it.
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https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/how-to-use-an-oscilloscope
https://www.tek.com/document/how-guide/pocket-guide-oscilloscopes
Sparkfun has a YouTube video with theirs.
Hey, I am relatively new to this osci-topic. Mind to help me? Where do I have to make the measurement? I mean, where goes the positive and negative of the probe?Cultists win this week! Opened up my deliveries from the weekend and found a CECHK01 with bad TOKINs on the GPU only. You're up to 2 in 42!
Just noticed I forgot to add the details to the previous image: it was a CECHA01, 3 second YLOD, pressure test did nothing, heat test did nothing, and it would never boot for any reason. I didn't get "after" images because it popcorned during reball - I don't sell CECHA01 without reballing the GPU even if they work perfectly, plus I wanted to add to my mental notes another notch in the "heat from reballing doesn't bring them back to life" column. Thus is life.
Now, for this one: CECHK01, random length YLOD and would even boot for a few seconds sometimes. Pressure test did nothing, heat test had no discernible effect. Not reballing this one since CECHK01 aren't worth enough to justify the time. Worked fine after replacing half, but as you can see below, there was still quite a bit of that pulsing "sawtooth" wave left for me to feel comfortable. Replaced the rest, and it almost looks normal.
Bad GPU TOKIN:
Bad GPU TOKIN half replaced with tantalum:
Bad GPU completely replaced with tantalum:
The set I burned looked somewhere in between the dead CECHA01 and the dead CECHK01. I can't seem to find the burned set image now since I purged some poorly written notes, so *gasp* you'll just have to trust me. I'm guessing the CECHK01 looks so much smoother and more pronounced since the TDP is lower, so there's less switching noise.
Hello i'm new to the forum i just created my account, i'm brazilian, my english is not very good i apologize for any mistake, i have a ps3 cechp that presents ylod, it takes a while to turn off, it turns on the light hd and sometimes the image (before it entered the xmb, but I think after so many attempts to turn it on and then turn off, the hd ended up corrupting and asks to connect the control with a usb cable but I'm without mine, but that is another case) in Brazil there is a forum that debates ylod a lot, but I ended up reading some information here on psx place about soldering capacitors in parallel, I ordered 8 tantalum capacitors from 470 microfarads and wanted to solder them in parallel, however I don't have much welding experience and I wanted some tips on how to do the process
Probe goes on the side of the TOKIN facing the CPU or GPU. The patch of vias between the TOKIN and the chip on either side of the board are easiest.
Ground clip goes.... on ground! Easiest is the exposed copper that runs the entire edge of the board.
You should now see 1 of 3 signals. The baseline from 20 some pages ago, the bad TOKIN waveforms from like 2 pages ago, or some weird ass data signal that I think means you have a dead chip.
Ground clip goes.... on ground! Easiest is the exposed copper that runs the entire edge of the board.
You should now see 1 of 3 signals. The baseline from 20 some pages ago, the bad TOKIN waveforms from like 2 pages ago, or some weird ass data signal that I think means you have a dead chip.
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man I'm sorry but I couldn't quite understand what you said can you explain it to me in a simpler way?Probe goes on the side of the TOKIN facing the CPU or GPU. The patch of vias between the TOKIN and the chip on either side of the board are easiest.
Ground clip goes.... on ground! Easiest is the exposed copper that runs the entire edge of the board.
You should now see 1 of 3 signals. The baseline from 20 some pages ago, the bad TOKIN waveforms from above, or this weird ass data signal that I think means you have a dead chip.
Last edited by a moderator:
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