PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

Workz_777 said:
Hi, what PS3 board do you have? Or what is its serial number?

For the test using external capacitors, you want to leave all the NECs on the board, then you just solder 2 x wires to only one of the NECs, on the RSX.

(See the picture below) Red wire to the (+) Black wire to the (-).

View attachment 25911

Then you can solder these 2 x wires from the RSX NEC to either:- a combination of 2 x 2200uF - 6.3V Electrolytic Capacitors, or to 1 x 4700uF - 6.3V Electrolytic Capacitor, or if you want to some Tantalum Capacitors 10 x 470uF 2.5V, externally (see photo below).

View attachment 25912

Then see if the PS3 boots, if the PS3 does not boot, you could try the same thing on the CELL processor.
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Hi again..i removed one of the RSX NEC and now i should solder one of electrolyte 6.3v 2200uf?
2-in my country there is not tantal 2.5v or even 6.3v 470uf..but there was 10v 470uf and i buy it..can i use this or no?if yes how many per EACH NEC?
 
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joe musashi said:
yes really do u know someone here is successful made his ps3 work good after he replace the nec with tantalum ?
Click to expand...

There have been several that have been sucessfull. This entire thread is based on OP's success with the technique. There have also been several that have not! There are a variety of reasons why YLOD happens, and the tantalum swap is just one fix for one specific issue, not a "universal" fix for all the reasons YLOD happens.

EDIT: To expand on my own reply, that's the main reason a few of us are testing cheap oscilloscopes -- we want to come up with a way to verify that the caps are the actual issue before you attempt a relatively expensive and difficult soldering project that most people have not had experience with. I've been soldering for hobby projects for 20+ years, and I still found it challenging.
 
joe musashi said:
yes really do u know someone here is successful made his ps3 work good after he replace the nec with tantalum ?
Click to expand...
i mean. with my old CECHB01 from last summer, i did 2 NECs one for cell one for rsx, and that made it work fine. i decided to do all then i got major artifacting. i should have just only done the top side only but eh whatever. rip to that B01 lol
 
marciolsf said:
There have been several that have been sucessfull. This entire thread is based on OP's success with the technique. There have also been several that have not! There are a variety of reasons why YLOD happens, and the tantalum swap is just one fix for one specific issue, not a "universal" fix for all the reasons YLOD happens.

EDIT: To expand on my own reply, that's the main reason a few of us are testing cheap oscilloscopes -- we want to come up with a way to verify that the caps are the actual issue before you attempt a relatively expensive and difficult soldering project that most people have not had experience with. I've been soldering for hobby projects for 20+ years, and I still found it challenging.
Click to expand...
How can we test the NEC capacitors one by one without removing and find which is not healthy with osiloscope or multimeter?
 
Revak3115 said:
i mean. with my old CECHB01 from last summer, i did 2 NECs one for cell one for rsx, and that made it work fine. i decided to do all then i got major artifacting. i should have just only done the top side only but eh whatever. rip to that B01 lol
Click to expand...
Have you tried a delid?
 
aminiani said:
How can we test the NEC capacitors one by one without removing and find which is not healthy with osiloscope or multimeter?
Click to expand...

Problem with capacitors is that you can't test them in-circuit... you'd just get false readings. Generally speaking, the safest way to test an individual capacitor is off the board (I know there are others ways, but they all require more than just a multimeter. And with the way tokins are built, i don't even know how you'd test those). So far, the idea to test in-circuit is to use a scope and measure the circuit between the capacitor's positive post and ground, which would then give you a wave reading. Squeept provided a decent amount of documentation on what a "good" wave and a "bad" wave would look like, and by comparing your reading to his, you'd know if your caps are working properly or not. He linked all the readings on his signature, so they're easy enough to find and compare.

The challenge right now is to find a decently-sized scope that an average hobbyist could afford and get good readings off of it, since even the most basic Pro scopes average >$200.
 
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Revak3115 said:
yep i did. again i doubt it was "GPU Failure" since it was after i replaced all NECs.. AND just recently i got another B01 and it had artifacting with tantalums/GLOD. so i replaced the top side with original "new" NECs and ever-since it has been running like a champ.
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Did you delid all 3 or just the CPU and rsx?
 
Revak3115 said:
yep i did. again i doubt it was "GPU Failure" since it was after i replaced all NECs.. AND just recently i got another B01 and it had artifacting with tantalums/GLOD. so i replaced the top side with original "new" NECs and ever-since it has been running like a champ.
Click to expand...

That's interesting... sorry if it's been explained before, but which tantalums (ratings and sizes) did you use? What was your distribution of of NECs per tantalum? And how many NECs did you replace, all 8?
 
Yugonibblit said:
Did you delid all 3 or just the CPU and rsx?
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yes i did a delid on the RSX/CELL/SB if thats what you're asking
marciolsf said:
That's interesting... sorry if it's been explained before, but which tantalums (ratings and sizes) did you use? What was your distribution of of NECs per tantalum? And how many NECs did you replace, all 8?
Click to expand...
i used many diff tantalums which you can see in the early days of this thread. after i did all 8 it gave me major issues as described before. i noticed that pressure and heat seemed to be reoccurring issues for that system i.e whenever the system was warm it would work properly for the most part, moving the system would freeze it. after all NECs got removed for tantalums
 
Revak3115 said:
yes i did a delid on the RSX/CELL/SB if thats what you're asking

i used many diff tantalums which you can see in the early days of this thread. after i did all 8 it gave me major issues as described before. i noticed that pressure and heat seemed to be reoccurring issues for that system i.e whenever the system was warm it would work properly for the most part, moving the system would freeze it. after all NECs got removed for tantalums
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Hey, I saw your posts early on this thread and your symptoms kinda resembled mine so I just wanted to get your opinion.

My CECHA used to YLOD on heavy demand games TTT2/GT6, had all the bottom side NECs changed to tantalums and it does not YLOD in these games now but upon cold boot, it will only run anywhere up to 60 seconds then YLOD. After this it can work for hours with no problem.

What do you think is the cause of the cold boot YLOD?
 
SeanRanklin said:
Hey, I saw your posts early on this thread and your symptoms kinda resembled mine so I just wanted to get your opinion.

My CECHA used to YLOD on heavy demand games TTT2/GT6, had all the bottom side NECs changed to tantalums and it does not YLOD in these games now but upon cold boot, it will only run anywhere up to 60 seconds then YLOD. After this it can work for hours with no problem.

What do you think is the cause of the cold boot YLOD?
Click to expand...
Expanding solder balls. Huh huh i said balls!
 
During remove one of NEC one of small chips i shown with yellow mark detached..is it problem?
20200524_152000.jpg
 
SeanRanklin said:
Hey, I saw your posts early on this thread and your symptoms kinda resembled mine so I just wanted to get your opinion.

My CECHA used to YLOD on heavy demand games TTT2/GT6, had all the bottom side NECs changed to tantalums and it does not YLOD in these games now but upon cold boot, it will only run anywhere up to 60 seconds then YLOD. After this it can work for hours with no problem.

What do you think is the cause of the cold boot YLOD?
Click to expand...
hmm so you still have 4 NECs remaining ? just recently i had a new B01 with YLOD, adding Tantalums got it to boot/work but would GLOD on cold boot for a bit or would artifact on screen, i added 4 NEW NECs on the underside i.e the bottom of the Chipsets and that has fixed every issue so far.
with my old B01 i never played PS3 games on it but it needed CELL NECs replaced. like it would occasionally YLOD when turning it on. it would beep 3 times and flash RLOD when turning it off whenever the system was below 60C and would crash YLOD in PS1 games. also some XMB functions wouldn't work since it would crash YLOD. so that was a CELL NEC issue, @Naked_Snake1995 had this issue of RLOD when powering off like me also. i now have a E01 that needs CELL NECs done too

now i know its not ideal in this thread to get new NECs since they will fail eventually again, but from what i have read on here if the tokins are not too warm they will last longer. so since all 15 of my BC Phat systems have had a fully deep cleaning/Delid professionally by me i keep the temps under 65c always with 29% fanspeed(webMAN) under extreme load.

perhaps you should order new NEC TOKINs from eBay or whatever u decide to test and see if that fixes all issues. new ones obviously and use them. i used a heatgun on high for a few min to remove my NECs its not too hard to do. but if you take care of ur system and make sure it is cooled enough you should not have to worry about it tbh. now again this is my opinion and i will prob be called out on here for saying maybe the tantalums arent what the ps3 needs or maybe there needs to be the right perfect ones. since they seem to be giving some users(myself included) lots of issues here, not everyone again just my pov

also like 16 E128 NEC TOKINs "NEW" are like 1/3rd of the price of 32 tantalums(good ones)
 
marciolsf said:
There have been several that have been sucessfull. This entire thread is based on OP's success with the technique. There have also been several that have not! There are a variety of reasons why YLOD happens, and the tantalum swap is just one fix for one specific issue, not a "universal" fix for all the reasons YLOD happens.

EDIT: To expand on my own reply, that's the main reason a few of us are testing cheap oscilloscopes -- we want to come up with a way to verify that the caps are the actual issue before you attempt a relatively expensive and difficult soldering project that most people have not had experience with. I've been soldering for hobby projects for 20+ years, and I still found it challenging.
Click to expand...

i turned on my ps3's motherboard after i took all the neces and give instant ylod does that happned because there are not neses or there is another problem

aminiani said:
During remove one of NEC one of small chips i shown with yellow mark detached..is it problem?
View attachment 26039
Click to expand...

i guess you have to take it to someone who knows how to soldering is much better
 
Revak3115 said:
hmm so you still have 4 NECs remaining ? just recently i had a new B01 with YLOD, adding Tantalums got it to boot/work but would GLOD on cold boot for a bit or would artifact on screen, i added 4 NEW NECs on the underside i.e the bottom of the Chipsets and that has fixed every issue so far.
with my old B01 i never played PS3 games on it but it needed CELL NECs replaced. like it would occasionally YLOD when turning it on. it would beep 3 times and flash RLOD when turning it off whenever the system was below 60C and would crash YLOD in PS1 games. also some XMB functions wouldn't work since it would crash YLOD. so that was a CELL NEC issue, @Naked_Snake1995 had this issue of RLOD when powering off like me also. i now have a E01 that needs CELL NECs done too

now i know its not ideal in this thread to get new NECs since they will fail eventually again, but from what i have read on here if the tokins are not too warm they will last longer. so since all 15 of my BC Phat systems have had a fully deep cleaning/Delid professionally by me i keep the temps under 65c always with 29% fanspeed(webMAN) under extreme load.

perhaps you should order new NEC TOKINs from eBay or whatever u decide to test and see if that fixes all issues. new ones obviously and use them. i used a heatgun on high for a few min to remove my NECs its not too hard to do. but if you take care of ur system and make sure it is cooled enough you should not have to worry about it tbh. now again this is my opinion and i will prob be called out on here for saying maybe the tantalums arent what the ps3 needs or maybe there needs to be the right perfect ones. since they seem to be giving some users(myself included) lots of issues here, not everyone again just my pov

also like 16 E128 NEC TOKINs "NEW" are like 1/3rd of the price of 32 tantalums(good ones)
Click to expand...

Hmm. I havent had GLOD though, mine just shuts off with the three beeps and flashes red. Upon booting again, it can work for hours with no problems.

I actually ordered original necs a while ago, but they havent arrived due to the pandemic, however my original plans were to simply heat all of the necs and lift them off, and place these new ones down. But ultimately, ended up with going for the tantalums. So do you think I should remove and replace all top side Necs when my replacements arrive? I'm just worried i'll make it worse than it already is.

Do my symptoms sound like the remaining necs OR, do they sound like...
Yugonibblit said:
Expanding solder balls.
Click to expand...
X.X
 
I was wondering if any of the slim consoles have caps that could be used on a fat console mobo? I'm getting impatient waiting for my new caps to arrive! TIA!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
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