PS3 (UPDATE its Not working at all. )What type of LOD is this?

i belive You because had exprience some my ps3 60gb shut down with GT6 and when i puted some tantalums fixed my issue
 
So guys i have bad news. i have changed first the caps on rsx assembled it and everything seems fine. the thing one time freeze but..so i changed the caps on cell too and the damn thing will not start. the ylod comes like in two seconds and its done. so maybe we lost it. any opinions?
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Luisile said:
So guys i have bad news. i have changed first the caps on rsx assembled it and everything seems fine. the thing one time freeze but..so i changed the caps on cell too and the damn thing will not start. the ylod comes like in two seconds and its done. so maybe we lost it. any opinions?View attachment 19231 View attachment 19232 View attachment 19229 View attachment 19230 View attachment 19231 View attachment 19232 View attachment 19229 View attachment 19230
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Once again,if its an instant YLOD then, its something wrong on your end! Did you tried bridging the positive side of the Caps with a wire? Try that and report back! You cannot simply claim it doesnt work, you saw it does,i did the same thing and it worked, perhaps you did order the wrong caps? Could happen,but try bridging the positive side of the caps with a high guage wire, look up in the tutorial i have that mentioned too somewhere near the end.

The bridge should be looking something like this, this its why i always,and i repeat, always recommend, to replace 1 NEC and test,and repeat, to avoid confusion,and claims that its not working, you essentialy replaced all of them at once, not the question remains,which one its poorly soldered,and which arent?
 

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Naked_Snake1995 said:
Once again,if its an instant YLOD then, its something wrong on your end! Did you tried bridging the positive side of the Caps with a wire? Try that and report back! You cannot simply claim it doesnt work, you saw it does,i did the same thing and it worked, perhaps you did order the wrong caps? Could happen,but try bridging the positive side of the caps with a high guage wire, look up in the tutorial i have that mentioned too somewhere near the end.
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No i have not bridged the positive ends. because you said that when i leave the bottom nec/ tokin i dont need make the wire bridge. I try it but not today.
i have ordered these caps
avx tpsd477k006r0100
https://www.mouser.sk/ProductDetail/AVX/TPSD477K006R0100?qs=VBmHF%2BrHW8YQVqB8rx5Kig==
 
Luisile said:
No i have not bridged the positive ends. because you said that when i leave the bottom nec/ tokin i dont need make the wire bridge. I try it but not today.
i have ordered these caps
avx tpsd477k006r0100
https://www.mouser.sk/ProductDetail/AVX/TPSD477K006R0100?qs=VBmHF%2BrHW8YQVqB8rx5Kig==
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Well you should have read that to be honest, try bridging them and report back, look at the diagram carefuly, ive made the guide to help people understand, on how to diagnose and repair the NEC Problem, what you do, its your responsability solely, so before you throw any pitch fork at me.

The bridging needs to be done anyway, thats if you soldered them properly! By the way,when you replaced the NEC on the RSX, did you repalced both on top,and it worked? I need to know so i can advise you a bridge or a resolder on the CELL side.
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
The bridging needs to be done anyway, thats if you soldered them properly! By the way,when you replaced the NEC on the RSX, did you repalced both on top,and it worked? I need to know so i can advise you a bridge or a resolder on the CELL side.
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Yes both on the top it worked, but then the systém froze but then again has started again.but it was a bit laggy so i decided to do the CELL too.
Anyway ok i Will try bridge and will let you know. But i do it tomorow its too late now and I need sleep.
 
Luisile said:
Yes both on the top it worked, but then the systém froze but then again has started again.but it was a bit laggy so i decided to do the CELL too.
Anyway ok i Will try bridge and will let you know. But i do it tomorow its too late now and I need sleep.
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Try bridging the CELL Caps, if it doesnt work, i advise you to redo your solder work, i just pray you havent scratched any trace,because even the slightest mistake and the board its DOA,but it should be only a bridging or a resoldering, its just a matter to test both :)
 
Luisile said:
Yes both on the top it worked, but then the systém froze but then again has started again.but it was a bit laggy so i decided to do the CELL too.
Anyway ok i Will try bridge and will let you know. But i do it tomorow its too late now and I need sleep.
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did you ever get it working?
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Try bridging the CELL Caps, if it doesnt work, i advise you to redo your solder work, i just pray you havent scratched any trace,because even the slightest mistake and the board its DOA,but it should be only a bridging or a resoldering, its just a matter to test both :)
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How do I test the caps I solder to see if they aren't shorting. Can I use a multi meter? What setting.
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Once again,if its an instant YLOD then, its something wrong on your end! Did you tried bridging the positive side of the Caps with a wire? Try that and report back! You cannot simply claim it doesnt work, you saw it does,i did the same thing and it worked, perhaps you did order the wrong caps? Could happen,but try bridging the positive side of the caps with a high guage wire, look up in the tutorial i have that mentioned too somewhere near the end.

The bridge should be looking something like this, this its why i always,and i repeat, always recommend, to replace 1 NEC and test,and repeat, to avoid confusion,and claims that its not working, you essentialy replaced all of them at once, not the question remains,which one its poorly soldered,and which arent?
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Hi Snake. I wanted to thank you for your guide that I followed on my first PS3 to try and fix my BC model and it worked after removing a single NEC cap and putting on 4 tantalums. Granted I've never soldered or done anything like this before. I really appreciate the time you've put into this and helping others around here with this.

Now I went onto my 2nd BC PS3 and I ran into a snag. I replaced a single TOKIN cap with 4 tantalums and instead of a instant YLOD the system powered on but turns off after 5 seconds. So we went from instant YLOD to a 5 second YLOD... progress of a kind! So I took off the TOKIN next to that one and put 4 more Tantalums on there and now back to a instant YLOD. WTF! So I spent 4 hours removing all 8 tantalums to redo all 8 b/c I was unhappy with the soldering work and instant YLOD still. Not sure of the problem. Assuming I need to start replacing the Cell Tokins now? I don't have my stuff yet to hook up and get error codes but am working on that. Also I had a quick follow-up question I am scratching away the negative area to have more space for my tantalums but I was curious if it's possible to scratch too deeply? Like is it possible to scratch too much and screw something up? I've only replaced the two RSX tantalums thus-far, so I will do the Cell ones next on the same side of the board, but I am completely bummed as to why I went from instant YLOD, to 5 second YLOD, and back to instant YLOD.
 
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