PS3 My fat CECHE01 gave me a YLOD but it is working fine right after

Gabriel2Silva said:
Hey. The thermal paste spread on the RSX side was really a little bit strange. I took some pictures so you can give your opinion.
https://imgur.com/gallery/krTptr9

I'm reinstalling everything now. I'm just kinda confused on how I will place this IHS perfectly on its place, but let's see.
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Its was in a different offset, what you can do its combine the spread method with the pea-size, spread a thin layer of paste with a card, and then put a pea size on the middle.
 
please don't take offense but it seems you did a real mess.take your time,relax,and take fresh look on everything.clearly chip doesn't make full and proper contact with heatsink,maybe you didn't made chip itself make good contact with ihs.

that many paste seems to me really too much.also,i don't know anything about that paste but in my area cooler master is somewhat still a bargain brand,as classic nonconductive compounds go we here trust only artic and noctua,and we're slowly switching to thermal grizzly even for paste.and if someone says compound doesn't make big difference just last week i've brought some random paste that local shop has in stock because i was in a hurry to fix my friends htpc and set it up,as was somewhat low power cpu and not too hot gpu in question i've reasoned anything will get the job done,and no matter what i've did that htpc was cooking just because of that junk paste (no conductivity whatsoever,toothpaste did better job in those two days it take me to get back at my place and grab my old noctua and go back and redo everything).

my point is especially between chip itself and IHS quality and conductivity is crucial.i plan to do my own experiment with liquid metal as i can't find conclusive proof that it can or can't be done reliably on the net,but myself wouldn't trust CM with paste between IHS and chip itself.
 
umart666 said:
please don't take offense but it seems you did a real mess.take your time,relax,and take fresh look on everything.clearly chip doesn't make full and proper contact with heatsink,maybe you didn't made chip itself make good contact with ihs.

that many paste seems to me really too much.also,i don't know anything about that paste but in my area cooler master is somewhat still a bargain brand,as classic nonconductive compounds go we here trust only artic and noctua,and we're slowly switching to thermal grizzly even for paste.and if someone says compound doesn't make big difference just last week i've brought some random paste that local shop has in stock because i was in a hurry to fix my friends htpc and set it up,as was somewhat low power cpu and not too hot gpu in question i've reasoned anything will get the job done,and no matter what i've did that htpc was cooking just because of that junk paste (no conductivity whatsoever,toothpaste did better job in those two days it take me to get back at my place and grab my old noctua and go back and redo everything).

my point is especially between chip itself and IHS quality and conductivity is crucial.i plan to do my own experiment with liquid metal as i can't find conclusive proof that it can or can't be done reliably on the net,but myself wouldn't trust CM with paste between IHS and chip itself.
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No offense taken. We're all here to learn I think.
Regarding thermal paste quality, I've used CoolerMaster for quite some time. I remember buying them because I saw a review with some comparisons and the Nano series was between the top non-liquid metal pastes. So I don't think it's all that bad to be honest, but I get your point. It's not like they're the most popular brand around when it comes to thermal pastes.

Update:
Did my best to ensure everything made perfect contact. Really. Reassembled everything and... NLOD. There's no standby LED, nothing at all. I had this problem in the past and it happened because of a faulty ribbon cable between the little power board and the motherboard. Bought a new one in the past and solved the issue. Thing is, this one doesn't look faulty at all. I've tried reseating the little ribbon but still nothing. Every cable is plugged internally, all the ribbons and such.

At this point, I don't know what to do anymore. I did it calmly and didn't rushed up in any part of the process.
Any suggestions?
 
go see that buddy and if he's not avaiable,abort everything until you find and get a hold of decent professional.you need a fresh set of eyes on that thing.
 
Gabriel2Silva said:
No offense taken. We're all here to learn I think.
Regarding thermal paste quality, I've used CoolerMaster for quite some time. I remember buying them because I saw a review with some comparisons and the Nano series was between the top non-liquid metal pastes. So I don't think it's all that bad to be honest, but I get your point. It's not like they're the most popular brand around when it comes to thermal pastes.

Update:
Did my best to ensure everything made perfect contact. Really. Reassembled everything and... NLOD. There's no standby LED, nothing at all. I had this problem in the past and it happened because of a faulty ribbon cable between the little power board and the motherboard. Bought a new one in the past and solved the issue. Thing is, this one doesn't look faulty at all. I've tried reseating the little ribbon but still nothing. Every cable is plugged internally, all the ribbons and such.

At this point, I don't know what to do anymore. I did it calmly and didn't rushed up in any part of the process.
Any suggestions?
Click to expand...
Yep, its good to have a spare of these little pests,they are pretty sensitive, the ribbon might look ok, but it laughs at you like its saying (You though i am ok, well do bad, replace me), you don't want to know the pain to inspect one of these ribbons.

Always have a spare for them, and try to remove it carefully, and evenly, wrong move and you can send your ribbon goodbye.

If the ribbon fails and you don't own spares, always try the BD Disc insertion technique or the DS3 PS Button.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
Yep, its good to have a spare of these little pests,they are pretty sensitive, the ribbon might look ok, but it laughs at you like its saying (You though i am ok, well do bad, replace me), you don't want to know the pain to inspect one of these ribbons.

Always have a spare for them, and try to remove it carefully, and evenly, wrong move and you can send your ribbon goodbye.

If the ribbon fails and you don't own spares, always try the BD Disc insertion technique or the DS3 PS Button.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Tried again. Reassembled everything and it worked. It's alive again. 61ºC on the RSX at the XMB at 30% fan speeds, Cell is running cooler.

Blu-Ray drive nor Bluetooth are working. BD issue is a old one, my BD ribbon cable is beyond screwed up. I've managed to perfectly place it last time I've opened this PS3 but now I gotta work on it again or just install a noBD firmware straight up. I don't need the drive.

Bluetooth though is probably because I failed at plugging something. Gonna open it again to check up.

Quick question, games will not run if you don't have the BD connected, right? All I get is a black screen when I try to run my games.
 
exactly.if you don't fix it you'll need noBD cfw.4.84.1 rebug cex is latest noBD officialy released (by Joonie) stay away from untrusted sources.

edit: 61c on rsx at the xmb seems high even on syscon.idk your room temperatures but i'd investigate further especially since you've delided it,it should be at least in the 50's.
 
umart666 said:
exactly.if you don't fix it you'll need noBD cfw.4.84.1 rebug cex is latest noBD officialy released (by Joonie) stay away from untrusted sources.

edit: 61c on rsx at the xmb seems high even on syscon.idk your room temperatures but i'd investigate further especially since you've delided it,it should be at least in the 50's.
Click to expand...

I agree. I should be getting way lower temps. But at this point I'm kinda hopeless because it'd be the third time I would be opening this console to change its thermal compound consecutively. There's either a problem with my thermal paste or my RSX delid. Maybe you're right about the CoolerMaster pastes, I've always used them on my PC and my overclocked Ryzen 5 1600 is actually running on the same paste I've used on the PS3 right now - no issues, very cold values.

Maybe the Cell is hovering between 57~60ºC because it needs a delid too. But I'm honestly too scared to delid it, as I know it is way harder and riskier than RSX.

Right now I'll try fixing the Bluetooth. If I manage to do so, I'll try the Blu-Ray drive, but I'm also kinda hopeless about it. When I first bought this PS3 used it was sold for cheap mainly because its BDD was bad. I've opened and fixed it, resetting the mechanisms and screwing around with the cables until I managed to make it work. But right now the cable is so hopelessly screwed that I don't even want to waste my time trying. It's cool to have a BD but honestly it's not very useful for me today. I play everything on my HDD.

Backed up my saves in case this console decides to die again. I'll work on the Bluetooth module then I'll think about the RSX. Any suggestions?
 
Also, the reason why it wasn't even lighting the standby LED is unknown to me, but I think it was because of the power board ribbon cable. I've fiddled with it a little bit. Now I'm scared to remove it again. Life is not easy for me lol
 
umart666 said:
exactly.if you don't fix it you'll need noBD cfw.4.84.1 rebug cex is latest noBD officialy released (by Joonie) stay away from untrusted sources.

edit: 61c on rsx at the xmb seems high even on syscon.idk your room temperatures but i'd investigate further especially since you've delided it,it should be at least in the 50's.
Click to expand...
There are a lot of factors that influence the PS3s temperature, such as room temperature, ambience etc etc etc...

Since he lives in Brazil, at this time of the year its blazing hot, so don't expect anything below 60°C.

For example here its hot, and i am testing it right now, changed the paste 2 days ago, like the Capacitors, and i am getting values between 58°C on both an 60/61°C with a PlayStation2 game, and thats with a 34% 19 Blade Fan, although the fan myth sound more BS to be (and no, i don't play PS3 games on this bad boy, no siree!) [emoji23]

But during autumn or winter its a whole different story, i can expect 50°C on both, perhaps a bit more around the 55°C mark, and thats with a Delid.

So i don't get why the paranoia, well cooling temps are great, but when the system its hovering around 60°C and below, don't need to panic, my 2104A runs even hotter or almost the same.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
Naked_Snake1995 said:
There are a lot of factors that influence the PS3s temperature, such as room temperature, ambience etc etc etc...

Since he lives in Brazil, at this time of the year its blazing hot, so don't expect anything below 60°C.

For example here its hot, and i am testing it right now, changed the paste 2 days ago, like the Capacitors, and i am getting values between 58°C on both an 60/61°C with a PlayStation2 game, and thats with a 34% 19 Blade Fan, although the fan myth sound more BS to be (and no, i don't play PS3 games on this bad boy, no siree!) [emoji23]

But during autumn or winter its a whole different story, i can expect 50°C on both, perhaps a bit more around the 55°C mark, and thats with a Delid.

So i don't get why the paranoia, well cooling temps are great, but when the system its hovering around 60°C and below, don't need to panic, my 2104A runs even hotter or almost the same.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
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Can you tell me your temps idling at the XMB? What about fan speeds?
 
Gabriel2Silva said:
Thanks. Not very different from mine but I still need to test in-game.
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Remember the 57°C and 60°C its the in-game value.

To spice things up, i am testing Metal Gear Solid 4 (Launch Edition to stress the system) ill report the values once i have conclusive data.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
After 45min on Metal Gear Solid 4 the respective average temperatures are 59°C on the CELL and 64°C RSX (note sometimes hovering to 65/66°C) with 34% Fan Speed.

Did a little experiment with 75% fan and only at that speed the 50°C threshold its achievable, idle or in-game.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
Thank you for your values. MGS4 is my favorite game by the way.

I'm starting to look at things at a different perspective here. This PS3 is done, or at least, I am done with it, to the point I don't even want to keep wasting my time messing with it. Too many different problems. Even if I fix all of these I still have to replace the NEC TOKIN capacitors with tantalums.

My objective now is to fix Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and Blu-Ray. If I manage to do so, I'll put this thing on sale. People here in Brazil are crazy for these BC consoles - no wonder we have an extensive amount of info about crazy repairs like the tokins themselves. After that, if everything goes fine, I'll buy a Slim. Is there any CFW-able Slim variant that doesn't have the TOKIN capacitors? If there is, then that's my next step.

Messing with this phat PS3 should've been a hobby but now it's more of a headache. I just want to get rid of it before it stops completely.
 
Gabriel2Silva said:
Thank you for your values. MGS4 is my favorite game by the way.

I'm starting to look at things at a different perspective here. This PS3 is done, or at least, I am done with it, to the point I don't even want to keep wasting my time messing with it. Too many different problems. Even if I fix all of these I still have to replace the NEC TOKIN capacitors with tantalums.

My objective now is to fix Bluetooth/Wi-Fi and Blu-Ray. If I manage to do so, I'll put this thing on sale. People here in Brazil are crazy for these BC consoles - no wonder we have an extensive amount of info about crazy repairs like the tokins themselves. After that, if everything goes fine, I'll buy a Slim. Is there any CFW-able Slim variant that doesn't have the TOKIN capacitors? If there is, then that's my next step.

Messing with this phat PS3 should've been a hobby but now it's more of a headache. I just want to get rid of it before it stops completely.
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There is, in the CECH-2100 and 2500 Series, Sony ditched the NEC/TOKIN Caps and replaced them with Tantalums.

Get the CECH-2100 Series, its CFW Compatible, same goes for the CECH-2500,but be warned not all 2500 Series are CFW Compatible, as there are a few revisions that came with 3.60 from Factory,you need to find one with the revision till 0C, more than that its 3.60,but use MinVerChk, as checking the datacode isn't enough, regarding the 2100 they all came with 3.40 or 3.50,i personally own a 2100 Series.

Sent from my G8341 using Tapatalk
 
i have both slim and semiBC,and also my cemiBC-cechc is banned (long story,told it already multiple times on the forum) and i've loaned the slim to my nephew,cechc they can get only from my cold dead hands. :) mainly because of ps2 games,as i'm not a fan of netemu to say the least.gx_emu on the other hand is really awesome,only recently i changed back tto emu on the PC but gx_emu on a CRT is where's at for me. :)

i strongly suspect full BC is even better,but alas here in europe we didn't get cecha and cechb and importing it from the states or even japan is really unfeasible here due to customs and shipping costs.

but if were to play only ps3 games or didn't had an really awesome CRT then slim would be superior in every way,especially those with tantalum caps from the factory.
 
Gabriel2Silva said:
In the dynamic fan control settings, I've selected 64°C to be the max temperature. So webman tries to maintain these values but sometimes and notoriously in some specific games the fans does go nuts in order to do so. The Last of Us is the prime example here. In that game, during the prologue screen with car crashes, explosions and lots of character models, the fan speeds does in fact reach 95%. And yes, the PS3 looks like a jet plane taking off, but still, the temperatures stay in the 64°C I've setup. It isn't like it's running at 95% all the time, it only reaches this kind of number in TLOU and in other games it stays on the 50~60% mark. It is still loud, but not nearly as loud as 95%. I can take it.
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I think what is happening is the temperatures you see on screen are not realistic
You have the thermal paste either over the IHS's or under them very degraded
The fan (at huge speeds) can keep the general temperature under control but the "thermal peaks" are bypassing it

In other words... the heat have a "delay" to transfer to the metal heatsink (because the degraded thermal pastes) so the temperaure in the metal heatshink is way lower than the DIE of the processor

So in my oppinion... forget about the PSU and the tokins, it seems is needed to delid CELL or RSX (or both)


-----------
Btw, is very rare for all the thermal pastes in CELL and RSX to degrade at the same time, usually what happens is only one of them "goes out of control" and have a temperature waaaay higher than the other
But to know which one is the culprit you are going to need to make some tests

*And take notes in PC in a .txt
*And try to make the tests with the biggest accuracy posible (starting from ambient and taking notes about times and temperatures)
 
Btw, when the PS3 boots (from ambient) the CELL have a bigger workload than the RSX
So for the first 5 or 10 minutes (while XMB is loading and the firtst minutes after turning on the PS3) the CELL should be hotter than the RSX

If you wait 15 or 20 minutes in idle the temperature of both CELL and RSX ballances a bit (with CELL always a bit higher than RSX).... because they are very close to each other, so they passes the heat to the other throught the motherboard (and throught the heatsink that is touching both)
The difference of temperatures in between them along this first 15 minutes should be around 5ºC max (in other words CELL 5ºC higher than RSX)
*The XMB style with the wave and sparks animations makes the temperatures to increase btw, because the wave is a .elf and is using graphics features of openGL
Later... when you enter in a app/game the RSX should have bigger temperatures than CELL

Try to make some tests to check all this, and remember to take notes in a .txt (or pen + paper) about exact temperatures of both CELL/RSX and the time passed since you booted the PS3 (starting from ambient)
Post all that info here in the forum and we can get a better idea if the temperature problems has been fixed :)

You had the IHS of the RSX separated and you have changed thermal paste under and over it, so i guess is fine (next time use less thermal paste over IHS btw, in the photos it looks like you used too much)... but we dont know if CELL is still having some problem
 
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