PS3 Reball ps3 Cell/RSX

...I'd like to know what that that hotgas desoldering tool is called and if I can buy a standalone unit. Cleaning the old solder off is one of the most tedious parts. The most is cleaning.

On my wishlist is an ultrasonic cleaner large enough to fit a PS3 motherboard and a BGA rework station capable of repeatable reflow profiles. Those 2 things will greatly improve the workflow and quality of my repairs.

And if I can find a better way to remove the solder, that would help imensely.
 
Ok my way to clear well older alloy
After desolder ic I take board and keep it on that small 500 w preheater on 100 at bottom and it will reach 80 on top eventually after 8 minutes.
While on that preheater I use that T12 soldering iron with 1cm heat think it is called 1401.Temp of iron 230.
First I remove excess of older alloy then I add second stage every pad leaded alloy so each pad have to catch leaded alloy.
After I use MG chemicals wick #464 but can be any better than that. If you don't feel like wick isn't cleaning well add more flux while you add leaded alloy or while you clean with flux.
It takes time but you should be good to go.
On the end cleaning excess of brown/fried flux I have MG chemicals pcb cleaning I use once for cleaning first, like 60 percent, then I use more ipa on the end. After cleaning to avoid damage/bump let boarda bit for evaporation to preheater at 100, about 10 minutes then good to go. After reball and test, last stage of cleaning will be 120 for 2 or 4 hours. I use water based pcb cleaner with compresed air (a tool from dental surgerys for cleaning). When is on board is more like foam where grease area. Once grease is removed that foam won't be there.
Until now no errors in my processing so I can keep it like that.
 
Yeah, but the time commitment! That desoldering suction tool would make short work of old ball alloy. If there were a combination desoldering gun + hot air with a variety of nozzles for BGAs of different widths that would be perfect.

I have been using a T12-C4 and braid, which is not ideal. That and my ghetto workbench (kitchen range) forces me to lean over my center of balance and hover my arm while removing solder. It's easy to slip and knock a smd off. I have to hold my breath to stay stable. The ergonomics is terrible.

What I need is a proper workbench where the BGA rework station can be lower and I have a place to rest my elbow, so I can be more precise and comfortable. The way it is now it takes all day to do a reball, and its a sweaty workout. Wears me out and makes me prone to rushing, which is a recipe for bad results.
 
Yes even for me was hard and uncomfortable working with big rework station and found that smaller perfect fit. I just lift up a bit office chair.
 
Hi guys!
How are you?
I have ly ir8500 v2
Top heater 450w
Bottom 1600w
I want the profiles desolder and reflow for ps3 with ihs and without ihs,xbox 360 and ps4.
Please help me.
I spent long time and no luck
 
My CECHA00 blinks red constantly after i press the rear switch. First time happened after an hour, second time after 15 minutes, third time after 2 minutes. Now it blinks red everytime after i press the rear switch. No yellow light. Do i need reballing/reflow?
 
Hasan Ahmed said:
Hi guys!
How are you?
I have ly ir8500 v2
Top heater 450w
Bottom 1600w
I want the profiles desolder and reflow for ps3 with ihs and without ihs,xbox 360 and ps4.
Please help me.
I spent long time and no luck
Click to expand...
That is bit different rework station, rework station we have is Jovi RE8500, same profiles won't match but stages are same, 120 Celsius preheat, soak stage 180 Celsius , reflow stage 220 ~235 Celsius. I can't give specific support as what I do is totally different but results should be same. All take each board individually practice by board. Automated profiles on most rework station are not working. You have to create your own profiles. Please watch most of videos of Computer Booter where I was technical support. I give him my advices as he have same rework station. Even like that he desolder around 220~225, I desoldered around 232 ~235 because of different TC(thermocouple). I am bit out of repair consoles during summer, most of time out of my workshop.
 
Hasan Ahmed said:
Hi guys!
How are you?
I have ly ir8500 v2
Top heater 450w
Bottom 1600w
I want the profiles desolder and reflow for ps3 with ihs and without ihs,xbox 360 and ps4.
Please help me.
I spent long time and no luck
Click to expand...
@Shawn Shakir has a very similar model and has a profile that's working for him. Perhaps he'd be willing to share his settings. I too would be interested since that is the model I would likely buy, if I ever do buy a reballing station.
 
Hasan Ahmed said:
Hi guys!
How are you?
I have ly ir8500 v2
Top heater 450w
Bottom 1600w
I want the profiles desolder and reflow for ps3 with ihs and without ihs,xbox 360 and ps4.
Please help me.
I spent long time and no luck
Click to expand...

So I have an ACHI-IR PRO-SC and this is the profile i've been using for the past 6 months with advice from Vyktor with a few tweaks and have had zero issues with my reballs on PS3's ever since. I have my bottom heater set at 280 and keep it at that until top temp reaches 160, then i lower to 270 at 180, 260 at 190, 250 at 200, 240 at 210 and I usually just leave it there. For top heater these are my settings as of now, you can adjust the times up or down to make sure you are hitting the target temps. I also have my top heater aobut 1.5 - 2 inches away from the motherboard. For example, for L1, I have to have it run a bit longer in the winter to reach 160 since its colder in my basement. I am also using two TC for the top, one which is attached to the ACHI and one that is external. My bottom TC is also touching the bottom of my PS3 or 360. I can take pictures if needed

R1: step
L1 0 d1 360 r2 1.00
L2 190 d2 30 r3 1.00
L3 200 d3 25 r4 1.00
L4 210 d4 25 r5 1.00
L5 220 d5 25 r6 1.00
L6 230 d6 25 r7 end
hb 230.

Even though my L6 is set at 230 for 25 sec, I use the "nudge" test with tweezers, so once my balls are in the liquid state which is around 225, I can lift.
For reballing back lead, I usually stop before L4 reaches 210 and when my thermocouple reaches 205, and then I just let it cool on its own from there and have had zero issues.
For this, my bottom heater would be 10 degrees lower for all, so 270 until 160, 260 at 170, 250 at 180, 240 at 190 and then i leave it there.

I know i'm probably in the minority but I also reball my RSX using my top heater and haven't had any issues thus far, most others use a hot air wand and do it that way, but that'll be up to you. I have another profile for that which is basically
L1 210 d1 999 r2 1.00
For this i have my top heater probably an inch or so away, if i go 1.5 - 2 inches, some of my balls tend to drift or merge. Haven't had issues with any of my 40NM reballs thus far, so hopefully this can help you figure out how to dial in your own machine!
 
Shawn Shakir said:
So I have an ACHI-IR PRO-SC and this is the profile i've been using for the past 6 months with advice from Vyktor with a few tweaks and have had zero issues with my reballs on PS3's ever since. I have my bottom heater set at 280 and keep it at that until top temp reaches 160, then i lower to 270 at 180, 260 at 190, 250 at 200, 240 at 210 and I usually just leave it there. For top heater these are my settings as of now, you can adjust the times up or down to make sure you are hitting the target temps. I also have my top heater aobut 1.5 - 2 inches away from the motherboard. For example, for L1, I have to have it run a bit longer in the winter to reach 160 since its colder in my basement. I am also using two TC for the top, one which is attached to the ACHI and one that is external. My bottom TC is also touching the bottom of my PS3 or 360. I can take pictures if needed

R1: step
L1 0 d1 360 r2 1.00
L2 190 d2 30 r3 1.00
L3 200 d3 25 r4 1.00
L4 210 d4 25 r5 1.00
L5 220 d5 25 r6 1.00
L6 230 d6 25 r7 end
hb 230.

Even though my L6 is set at 230 for 25 sec, I use the "nudge" test with tweezers, so once my balls are in the liquid state which is around 225, I can lift.
For reballing back lead, I usually stop before L4 reaches 210 and when my thermocouple reaches 205, and then I just let it cool on its own from there and have had zero issues.
For this, my bottom heater would be 10 degrees lower for all, so 270 until 160, 260 at 170, 250 at 180, 240 at 190 and then i leave it there.

I know i'm probably in the minority but I also reball my RSX using my top heater and haven't had any issues thus far, most others use a hot air wand and do it that way, but that'll be up to you. I have another profile for that which is basically
L1 210 d1 999 r2 1.00
For this i have my top heater probably an inch or so away, if i go 1.5 - 2 inches, some of my balls tend to drift or merge. Haven't had issues with any of my 40NM reballs thus far, so hopefully this can help you figure out how to dial in your own machine!
Click to expand...

Shawn, can i ask... so when you have the bottom heater at 280c, is that when you bring in the PS3 board on the jig, or the board is there already when you start the bottom heater at first, so the board is always there from the start (0 degrees)?
 
Workz_777 said:
Shawn, can i ask... so when you have the bottom heater at 280c, is that when you bring in the PS3 board on the jig, or the board is there already when you start the bottom heater at first, so the board is always there from the start (0 degrees)?
Click to expand...

Board is on there from the start. When it's set to 280c, with the jig and height, it takes about 360 seconds or 6 minutes currently to heat the top of the board up to 160c, My jig is like @Computer Booter but instead of being low it's like rasied a few inches higher, so there would have to be some adjustments based on the height of the motherboard and such.
 
Shawn Shakir said:
Board is on there from the start. When it's set to 280c, with the jig and height, it takes about 360 seconds or 6 minutes currently to heat the top of the board up to 160c, My jig is like @Computer Booter but instead of being low it's like rasied a few inches higher, so there would have to be some adjustments based on the height of the motherboard and such.
Click to expand...

Ahh thanks so much, most appreciated
 
Hi all, I'm new here!

First of all, congrats! There is a lot of interesting stuff about ps3 on this forum, and a lot of impressive skills!
Also thanks a lot for sharing, was able to troubleshoot some ps3 with the syscon but didn't manage to fix them :').

About reballing reflowing, I'm a little in the blur about those IR "reballing" machines, I got an IR6500 which
clearly doesn't look very well suited to do that work as @vyktormvmpay25 already said that in this thread:
- there might be 10°C difference with an external temp sensor at the same place, it doesn't look so precise :(.
- the top temperature sensor can hardly go above 85°C with the 800W bottom heater at 350°C..
- the 400W top heater doesn't help much it takes a while to heat up to 220°C always late on the default reflow curve
and eventually everything just toast before those balls are melting.

Now I see that @Shawn Shakir has really higher top temperature with his ACHI-IR PRO-SC 1600W bottom heater,
and I don't understand why.. Yes the heater has twice the power of mine, but that means that it (the heater) will
reach the 280°C in half the time? Or maybe it's because of the heater surface? (260mm × 245mm according to
ebay vs 180mm x 180mm for the IR6500), my guess is that it should be compensated by the higher temperature I put?
Or maybe my bottom stuff is just broken :/..

About the top IR heater, do you paint the IHS in black or something in order to get the IR and heat the pads?

(Sorry for my bad english, I'm not a native speaker.)

Cheers!
 
katmai said:
Hi all, I'm new here!

First of all, congrats! There is a lot of interesting stuff about ps3 on this forum, and a lot of impressive skills!
Also thanks a lot for sharing, was able to troubleshoot some ps3 with the syscon but didn't manage to fix them :').

About reballing reflowing, I'm a little in the blur about those IR "reballing" machines, I got an IR6500 which
clearly doesn't look very well suited to do that work as @vyktormvmpay25 already said that in this thread:
- there might be 10°C difference with an external temp sensor at the same place, it doesn't look so precise :(.
- the top temperature sensor can hardly go above 85°C with the 800W bottom heater at 350°C..
- the 400W top heater doesn't help much it takes a while to heat up to 220°C always late on the default reflow curve
and eventually everything just toast before those balls are melting.

Now I see that @Shawn Shakir has really higher top temperature with his ACHI-IR PRO-SC 1600W bottom heater,
and I don't understand why.. Yes the heater has twice the power of mine, but that means that it (the heater) will
reach the 280°C in half the time? Or maybe it's because of the heater surface? (260mm × 245mm according to
ebay vs 180mm x 180mm for the IR6500), my guess is that it should be compensated by the higher temperature I put?
Or maybe my bottom stuff is just broken :/..

About the top IR heater, do you paint the IHS in black or something in order to get the IR and heat the pads?

(Sorry for my bad english, I'm not a native speaker.)

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Hi Hi, with my thermocouples, I use the one that came with the achi + one of my own for the top to make sure they are always reporting the same temperature. I also changed the thermocouple that came with my IR PRO to a better one. For the bottom probe, I changed that also and I have it reaching and touching the bottom of the PS3. I had the regular ACHI top heater for many years but about 3 years ago, I got an ELSTEIN circular IR plate that I put, which works alittle better. How close is your motherboard to the bottom heater plates? In case, I let bottom do 75% of the work and top does the remaining to get to 225 or whatever is desired. Hope this helps.
 
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