PS3 (Research/Experimental) - NEC/TOKIN Capacitors Replacement - YLOD

i have since worked on 2 PS3:

on one i replaced 2 NECs on RSX and 2 NECs on Cell (all on the top of the board) with 4 + 4 + 4 + 4 470 microF 4V tantalums and this one boots fine but gets a YLOD and then shuts down with 3 beeps and a blinking red led once TLOU gets ingame (i can barely see the yellow light for a second before it starts blinking red but it's definitely there).

on the second one i replaced 2 NECs on RSX on top of the board. this one booted fine and got ingame in TLOU multiple times. then all of sudden it started to YLOD again on boot after a couple of seconds.

at this point i think it's not the number of capacitors i replaced but the quality of the soldering job. i think the metal pad on the tantalums need to be fully connected to the undelying trace (a slight connection just isn't enought) and i'm starting to suspect this isn't true for all the tantalums i've added.

i probably need to follow Luis Rossman advice ad add more of the proper amount of flux!

now i have to find the will to fully disassemble both once again :D

thanks
 
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You don't need any flux. Just add some solder on both base sides of the tantalums and put them back , then touch them with your iron while pushing down a bit with a tweezer one side at a time

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if u have flux i would use it regardless so u can get a much better flow of the solder. just adding solder isnt always the best as sometimes it wont always flow properly and can create cold joins that u cant see, flux will solve this instantly.
 
wrx884 said:
if u have flux i would use it regardless so u can get a much better flow of the solder. just adding solder isnt always the best as sometimes it wont always flow properly and can create cold joins that u cant see, flux will solve this instantly.
Click to expand...
I 100% agree with this. The quality of my soldering has greatly improved since I started using flux, i can't imagine going back to not using it.
 
I don't know about your solder but mine has flux already in from factory(rosin flux core solder)

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Of corse it does lol but thats not the point, If u have flux u wouldn't even need to add any solder, it will do the job for u. Applying new solder to old solder which more than likely has none left, u actually are giving the new join less flux to help get the best possible join, plus it will just give u a bigger blob mess that could create more issues so less is more here.

This is soldering basics anyone who does this sorter work will use flux its common sense and just makes life so much simpler. Just because u can get the solder to work doesn't mean others that are new to this work, see this half advice will work just as good for them so its kind of bad advice and should only be used if u dont have any flux. Really ideally the old solder should be removed all together and start over.
 
yep! I used to think the same way, my solder already has flux, so why do I need extra, right? then I decided to recap my genesis, and it was a huge pain, thanks to really old solder with no flux left in it. I finally relented and started using flux on the older solder joints before I attempted to remove them, and it made a huge difference on how it flowed and how fast it achieved melting point.
 
I have a CECH-B01 with artifacts on startup and green light power LED. Is the problem most likely NEC capacitors or the GPU?
 
gmipf said:
I have a CECH-B01 with artifacts on startup and green light power LED. Is the problem most likely NEC capacitors or the GPU?
Click to expand...
Gpu is toasted. You need a new RSX chip

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gmipf said:
I have a CECH-B01 with artifacts on startup and green light power LED. Is the problem most likely NEC capacitors or the GPU?
Click to expand...
Do a reflow with a heat gun set at 360º in a lapse of 3mins and 20secs on the RSX first to see if there's any improvement dude (for test purposes).
 
I have just disassembled an another PS3, CECH-C04 with YLOD. I have removed the first TOKIN cap. But I think there is a problem. If I measure the + line of the TOKIN to GND I get a short. On the other PS3 CECH-B01 with artifacts the same short. What should I do?

EDIT: Maybe another TOKIN cap is also bad and I should remove the next one?
 
gmipf said:
I have a CECH-B01 with artifacts on startup and green light power LED. Is the problem most likely NEC capacitors or the GPU?
Click to expand...
Your GPU is on his way out, the NECs don't relate on anything with the NEC/TOKIN themselfs, your only option is a Chip replacement, which is fairly easy to find from 90nm YLOD donors.

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Naked_Snake1995 said:
Your GPU is on his way out, the NECs don't relate on anything with the NEC/TOKIN themselfs, your only option is a Chip replacement, which is fairly easy to find from 90nm YLOD donors.

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Click to expand...

I have a donor from an another CECH-A01 but how should I replace it? BGA reballing? I don't have the equipment to do it correctly I think. I have a cheap china heat gun and a ceran grill for preheating. But I have no template for the RSX and also never did BGA reballing. Do you have any advice?

Btw, the CECH-C04 unit is working again. Here is my work: [url=https://www.psx-place.com/attachments/img_20200112_022257-jpg.22363/?temp_hash=afd10fa623a4a2d43199dfc66b73bf1a]IMG_20200112_022257[/url]
 

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gmipf said:
I have a donor from an another CECH-A01 but how should I replace it? BGA reballing? I don't have the equipment to do it correctly I think. I have a cheap china heat gun and a ceran grill for preheating. But I have no template for the RSX and also never did BGA reballing. Do you have any advice?

Btw, the CECH-C04 unit is working again. Here is my work: IMG_20200112_022257
Click to expand...

yes, dont do it, if u want this console to have a chance get it done properly. u have no way of controlling the temp and the timing of which it needs to be done to remove the BGA safely, if anything u can/will make it worse if u fail then try to get someone else to do it.
 
Hi
All
I have a weird issue with My old Ps3. I have made a new post but was wondering if some one can help me please
Thanks in advance
 
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